Can I save my maple? Save or cut down?

[DarrellF]

Hi - this maple looks terrible every year. I’ve tried fertilizer, nitrogen, phosphorus. Each year I hope for a better year but it just keeps getting worse. I’m about to cut it down and replace with a Tulip Poplar (I have another Tulip that has done really well). Before I do, is there any way to save this tree or is it time to cut bait? Tree is 9 years old.

 

[ATH]

Can you post a picture of the bottom (where the trunk goes into the ground)?

 

[DarrellF]

Can you post a picture of the bottom (where the trunk goes into the ground)?

Here are a few pictures of as is and after clearing the mulch. I have a couple inches of wood chip mulch on top of clay (primarily) soil.

 

[ATH]

Pull back more soil and mulch. Need to where the trunk flares out to the roots. That may be the problem - planted too deep.

NO landscape fabric/weed barrier. That inhibits air and moisture exchange between the soil and environment and it prevents the tree from having access to the decomposing mulch (which is very beneficial for the tree). And ultimately, it doesn't do a very good controlling weeds as they grow on top of it in that nice compost that the tree can't have).

If the planting depth can be fixed and growing conditions improved (removing the barrier) the tree can make a recovery.

 

[DarrellF]

Pull back more soil and mulch. Need to where the trunk flares out to the roots. That may be the problem - planted too deep.

NO landscape fabric/weed barrier. That inhibits air and moisture exchange between the soil and environment and it prevents the tree from having access to the decomposing mulch (which is very beneficial for the tree). And ultimately, it doesn't do a very good controlling weeds as they grow on top of it in that nice compost that the tree can't have).

If the planting depth can be fixed and growing conditions improved (removing the barrier) the tree can make a recovery.

Thank you. I’ll dig and expose roots. Should I add any fertilizer, etc.? If recovery does occur, how long might it take? (Realizing fall is around the corner).

 

[ATH]

Don't worry about fertilizer until you get the root stuff fixed.

Then: is the soil lacking some nutrients?

 

[capetrees]

and water. looks dry to me.

 

[Amadeo]

I like the idea of being planted too deep. Most maples have a slight flare or buttress at the base. None is noticed here.

 

[Rickz26]

Pull back more soil and mulch. Need to where the trunk flares out to the roots. That may be the problem - planted too deep.

NO landscape fabric/weed barrier. That inhibits air and moisture exchange between the soil and environment and it prevents the tree from having access to the decomposing mulch (which is very beneficial for the tree). And ultimately, it doesn't do a very good controlling weeds as they grow on top of it in that nice compost that the tree can't have).

If the planting depth can be fixed and growing conditions improved (removing the barrier) the tree can make a recovery.

Just heard about the planted too deep as possible issue. That must explains some issues on our trees here.

 

[DarrellF]

Don't worry about fertilizer until you get the root stuff fixed.

Then: is the soil lacking

and water. looks dry to me.

Get’s plenty of water as far as I can tell.

 

[dmb2613]

Needs to be topped also , but get it healthy first.

 

[DarrellF]

Don't worry about fertilizer until you get the root stuff fixed.

Then: is the soil lacking some nutrients?

Other maples, ash, poplar, spruce in yard planted similarly (depth). No problems. This tree struggles. Locals tell me the soil is the issue specific to maples. Do I have a species issue??

 

[ATH]

Check the pH. Higher pH will make maple manganese deficient. But that doesn't look like the problem here.

This is an oak...but a recent pic I had. Maple leaf will be like that if it is manganese deficient...green veins with yellow in between.

 

[uniballer]

The term for that condition is chlorosis, i.e., "That tree is chlorotic."

Depending on the plant in question there may be several nutritional deficiencies that could cause it.

 

[capetrees]

and how about some anthracnose?

 

[ATH]

Just heard about the planted too deep as possible issue. That must explains some issues on our trees here.

deep planting explains a lot of issues on a lot of trees all over. They come from the nurseries too deep. Then they get planted too deep to hide the burlap and wire cage that didn't get removed. Then mulch gets mounded 6" high on the trunk...

 

[ATH]

The term for that condition is chlorosis, i.e., "That tree is chlorotic."

Depending on the plant in question there may be several nutritional deficiencies that could cause it.

more specifically, interveinal chlorosis. Chlorotic (lacking chlorophyll) between the veins.

But until the planting issue is fixed, I'm not convinced that we need to deal with a nutrient issue. A soil test is the start to figuring that out. A tissue test may also be in order.