Can you identify this CBN wheel???

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Was away for a few days fellas..
I dunno about the ultrasonic for the USDiamond wheel..
I put mine in the ultrasonic and I think it removed some of the abrasive,,, I'm not positive, but I think it did..
 
Yup. Used when needed and the whelp cuts cooler and will last for years.
If it isn't dull use it. Pretty simple.
You guess, what's that mean....do you have a wheel, or are you litterly just guessing???

What are you saying???

Do you use a solvent or the white stick, it's one or the other?????

Stick it solvent????

Do you ever have one of these wheels or are you just throwing ideas out there....
 
You guess, what's that mean....do you have a wheel, or are you litterly just guessing???

What are you saying???

Do you use a solvent or the white stick, it's one or the other?????

Stick it solvent????

Do you ever have one of these wheels or are you just throwing ideas out there....
You haven't read the thread have you??
I've been grinding for 40 years.
I have the resiniod wheels. I have a dozen and have used a hundred. I use a white stick. Like I said!!!

I have nickel bonded diamond flats. I clean them with solvent.
Like I said!!!!

USDiamond makes both kinds. Like I said!!!!!!

The sticks I gave to Showerguy were because he has a resinoid wheel. Like he said!!!!

Did you take the dam time to call the manhunt??

I tried to help and you are posting drunk and not comprehending what is simple English.

Or I hope you are posting drunk. Hope you aren't that thick.

Read before you jump.
Go back and read and ask me a question and I'll try to help.
 
You haven't read the thread have you??
I've been grinding for 40 years.
I have the resiniod wheels. I have a dozen and have used a hundred. I use a white stick. Like I said!!!

I have nickel bonded diamond flats. I clean them with solvent.
Like I said!!!!

USDiamond makes both kinds. Like I said!!!!!!

The sticks I gave to Showerguy were because he has a resinoid wheel. Like he said!!!!

Did you take the dam time to call the manhunt??

I tried to help and you are posting drunk and not comprehending what is simple English.

Or I hope you are posting drunk. Hope you aren't that thick.

Read before you jump.
Go back and read and ask me a question and I'll try to help.
I will say I didn't mean to offend you in anyway!!

I have not called Kevin yet, I have emailed back and forth a few times....I know he said the wheel I sent him a picture of looks to be electro plated, i wouldn't know.....

I will call him, it's just busy time of year at work, and got a lot of projects going on at my house....

The wheel I have looks "clean", but since I have never seen a new one I can't say if it looks like a new one....

I dont personally like the profile the 1/8 wheel leaves on .325 chain, so it won't get used much anyway...I don't use the 1/8 inch wheel until the cutter nears the end of life stage...
 
I will say I didn't mean to offend you in anyway!!

I have not called Kevin yet, I have emailed back and forth a few times....I know he said the wheel I sent him a picture of looks to be electro plated, i wouldn't know.....

I will call him, it's just busy time of year at work, and got a lot of projects going on at my house....

The wheel I have looks "clean", but since I have never seen a new one I can't say if it looks like a new one....

I dont personally like the profile the 1/8 wheel leaves on .325 chain, so it won't get used much anyway...I don't use the 1/8 inch wheel until the cutter nears the end of life stage...
NP. Hope I didn't offend you. A little disagreement means everyone is taking part in the conversation

Getting the profile right and to your own liking can be fussy.


All I can say is get a chain, grind, look,adjust, and grind. lol

It is satisfying once you get it right.
I have a grinder for each size because I don't like changing settings.

I'm an Ol Phart and do things to make me happy. Lol
Once you get your grinding space set up you will like it.
Good light.
Get a VERY comfortable stool that you can set in for at LEAST a six pack without fidgeting and make a footrest if necessary.

THEN build a shelf for your grinder at the lowest you think it will work.
Then you can raise it if need be. And you will change it.
And get great lighting. Not too big. LED is cooler.
And adjustable. You will change it.
My $.02.
Good luck.
Keep asking questions
 
NP. Hope I didn't offend you. A little disagreement means everyone is taking part in the conversation

Getting the profile right and to your own liking can be fussy.


All I can say is get a chain, grind, look,adjust, and grind. lol

It is satisfying once you get it right.
I have a grinder for each size because I don't like changing settings.

I'm an Ol Phart and do things to make me happy. Lol
Once you get your grinding space set up you will like it.
Good light.
Get a VERY comfortable stool that you can set in for at LEAST a six pack without fidgeting and make a footrest if necessary.

THEN build a shelf for your grinder at the lowest you think it will work.
Then you can raise it if need be. And you will change it.
And get great lighting. Not too big. LED is cooler.
And adjustable. You will change it.
My $.02.
Good luck.
Keep asking questions
No I did re-read what I wrote and I was like damn, he is right LOL....it flat out sounded rude, and I really didn't mean to...:dumb:


I have an Oregon 520 grinder and that's were the grinding addiction began, (I do have an ol harbor freight grinder someone gave me,LOL)...

But I do like the Oregon, have used it quite abut...well then a busy if mine walked me into a deal in a Stihl USG, needless to say I bought it....the US diamond wheel came with it, that's how I acquired the wheel....

The guy whom I got the USG and wheel off of said he didn't use the wheel much, like only a handful of times....now who knows if that's true....

The only reason I became so curious with the wheel is because the damn thing left the BEST looking finish I have seen yet...looked as good as a new chain....it just cut different than my diamond wheel company CBN wheel....

If you don't mind me asking, what is your favorite wheel after all these years of trial and error?????

:cheers:
 
No I did re-read what I wrote and I was like damn, he is right LOL....it flat out sounded rude, and I really didn't mean to...:dumb:


I have an Oregon 520 grinder and that's were the grinding addiction began, (I do have an ol harbor freight grinder someone gave me,LOL)...

But I do like the Oregon, have used it quite abut...well then a busy if mine walked me into a deal in a Stihl USG, needless to say I bought it....the US diamond wheel came with it, that's how I acquired the wheel....

The guy whom I got the USG and wheel off of said he didn't use the wheel much, like only a handful of times....now who knows if that's true....

The only reason I became so curious with the wheel is because the damn thing left the BEST looking finish I have seen yet...looked as good as a new chain....it just cut different than my diamond wheel company CBN wheel....

If you don't mind me asking, what is your favorite wheel after all these years of trial and error?????

:cheers:

No sweat Ol Buddy. You can only see a little of a post on a dam phone.
LOTS of trial and error. Lol

The resinoid I like for touch up. There is a lighter touch to me.

That Dina Saw is great when you have to take more. Folks who I sharpen for free I tell to change the chain before it gets too dull.
Once they do they like it better. Experience teaches that. Like most things. And I just touch them up on the resinoid.

I will get one like yours for heavier cuts. When I do relief work after hurricanes they need a LOT taken off. Lol

Either will work well. But the resinoid will load quicker but can last longer.

Getting long. Sorry.

The USG I would like to try. I have two Silveys (one with 8" wheels and one square grind out on loan) and two Oregons.

Anyway......that wheel will cut fine. I'm going to have two eventually.

But I love the resinoid for the feel and finish. But I take care of mine.
And 40 years of grinding. But different grinding.

Making things like a 3/16" dovetail cutter out of a carbide blank is where I learned on a Cincinnati Milicron No2.

Like Showerguy does now, I take care of my resinoid wheel.

Like you will.
 
No sweat Ol Buddy. You can only see a little of a post on a dam phone.
LOTS of trial and error. Lol

The resinoid I like for touch up. There is a lighter touch to me.

That Dina Saw is great when you have to take more. Folks who I sharpen for free I tell to change the chain before it gets too dull.
Once they do they like it better. Experience teaches that. Like most things. And I just touch them up on the resinoid.

I will get one like yours for heavier cuts. When I do relief work after hurricanes they need a LOT taken off. Lol

Either will work well. But the resinoid will load quicker but can last longer.

Getting long. Sorry.

The USG I would like to try. I have two Silveys (one with 8" wheels and one square grind out on loan) and two Oregons.

Anyway......that wheel will cut fine. I'm going to have two eventually.

But I love the resinoid for the feel and finish. But I take care of mine.
And 40 years of grinding. But different grinding.

Making things like a 3/16" dovetail cutter out of a carbide blank is where I learned on a Cincinnati Milicron No2.

Like Showerguy does now, I take care of my resinoid wheel.

Like you will.
Thanks a lot, and you could write 3-pages worth and it wouldn't be to long for me lol!!!

Now when you sa resinoid what brand/kind of wheel are you referring to, just so I understand....

Thanks for your replys, hell I could put the sun to bed talking saws, chains, grinders....no one around me locally is as obsessed with it, LMAO
 
Thanks a lot, and you could write 3-pages worth and it wouldn't be to long for me lol!!!

Now when you sa resinoid what brand/kind of wheel are you referring to, just so I understand....

Thanks for your replys, hell I could put the sun to bed talking saws, chains, grinders....no one around me locally is as obsessed with it, LMAO
I have a US Diamond and it seems very good quality. I only had it for a few years. I do the chains for a friend with a big orchard.
And they get abused....badly. Clearing, and they cut as close to the ground as possible......often hitting the ground.

In the trade it was Norton. Some for over 20 years. Diamond for carbide and CBN for steel. Norton is the gold standard.

And like them, the US Diamond are very true and a very nice fit on the spindle. Only like $105 shipped.

And I understand. How many people can you talk to amour metal smithing. Most came understand the basic tolerances used.
You can tell them the thickness of a sheet of paper or thickness of a human hair.

But that's where it starts.........I very seldom have that much.

Tell them to slice the paper thickness into 10 slices they sort of stare.......and then you take one of those slices and slice it into 10 slices their eyes glaze over.
Then tell them to slice that in half and that are the increments on your indicator ..........you just tell them you crank handles for a living and let them guess.
Or show them a small air spindle and say that you could load with 70 lbs and hand spin it to 20 rpm and it would take 2 hours to stop because it is so finely made......totally lost on them.
 
I have a US Diamond and it seems very good quality. I only had it for a few years. I do the chains for a friend with a big orchard.
And they get abused....badly. Clearing, and they cut as close to the ground as possible......often hitting the ground.

In the trade it was Norton. Some for over 20 years. Diamond for carbide and CBN for steel. Norton is the gold standard.

And like them, the US Diamond are very true and a very nice fit on the spindle. Only like $105 shipped.

And I understand. How many people can you talk to amour metal smithing. Most came understand the basic tolerances used.
You can tell them the thickness of a sheet of paper or thickness of a human hair.

But that's where it starts.........I very seldom have that much.

Tell them to slice the paper thickness into 10 slices they sort of stare.......and then you take one of those slices and slice it into 10 slices their eyes glaze over.
Then tell them to slice that in half and that are the increments on your indicator ..........you just tell them you crank handles for a living and let them guess.
Or show them a small air spindle and say that you could load with 70 lbs and hand spin it to 20 rpm and it would take 2 hours to stop because it is so finely made......totally lost on them.
Wow, that's very interesting....you are talking such small measurements it's unreal....I bet you turn out great chains since you know so much much about metal and it's properties....

Since you do know a lot about metal and chains, let me ask you a question, if I may....

Now I talked with a few people about "tempering" when dealing with chainsaw chain....some guys say, when you see sparks, you have changed the temper of the chain, is that really true...is it that easy to temper a chain or would it have to be "blued/burnt" to actually effect the chains temper...

I go slow and use light taps when grinding my chains....I hand file and grind my chains, and I have never felt like hand filing a chain I have ground was any different than filing a new chain...

I know that you can absolutely burn a chain, local shop burns chain for $7 a loop, any size, LOL....

Sorry for all the questions, I warned you I can talk saws, grinders, and chains all day LOl.....I am including some pics of chain I have sharpened with my grinder, feel free to critique me, always looking to get better!!!!
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@Stihl 041S this is an Oregon vanguard chain, (3/8), I experiment with....

I used the US diamond wheel and I hope you can tell how nice the finish is....this is what shocked me about the wheel in the first place...it leaves the nicest, smoothest finish I have ever seen....I know this sounds crazy, but it literally has a finish like a new chain....

I will eventually buy a 3/16 wheel just like the US diamond wheel I have now....I use the 3/16 a lot more that the 1/8 wheels...
IMG_2843.JPG IMG_2840.JPG
 
Wow, that's very interesting....you are talking such small measurements it's unreal....I bet you turn out great chains since you know so much much about metal and it's properties....

Since you do know a lot about metal and chains, let me ask you a question, if I may....

Now I talked with a few people about "tempering" when dealing with chainsaw chain....some guys say, when you see sparks, you have changed the temper of the chain, is that really true...is it that easy to temper a chain or would it have to be "blued/burnt" to actually effect the chains temper...

I go slow and use light taps when grinding my chains....I hand file and grind my chains, and I have never felt like hand filing a chain I have ground was any different than filing a new chain...

I know that you can absolutely burn a chain, local shop burns chain for $7 a loop, any size, LOL....

Sorry for all the questions, I warned you I can talk saws, grinders, and chains all day LOl.....I am including some pics of chain I have sharpened with my grinder, feel free to critique me, always looking to get better!!!!
View attachment 595473 View attachment 595476 View attachment 595478
Sparks don't mean burning. Lol
When you are surface grinding and FLOODING the piece in coolant there are still sparks.

There are lots of better grinders than me. Because no matter how good a grinder I am .......if I don't know the tight shape, I can't grind it. That's why I read the grinding threads. Most are pretty drama free. Which is nice.

Coming down in little steps is the way to go. And a bad chain takes an extra trip around.

You will get to feel the grinder. Some shops put the least skilled person on the grinder. And he may not give a crap. That's why I started grinding my own.

Have a good one.
 
@Stihl 041S this is an Oregon vanguard chain, (3/8), I experiment with....

I used the US diamond wheel and I hope you can tell how nice the finish is....this is what shocked me about the wheel in the first place...it leaves the nicest, smoothest finish I have ever seen....I know this sounds crazy, but it literally has a finish like a new chain....

I will eventually buy a 3/16 wheel just like the US diamond wheel I have now....I use the 3/16 a lot more that the 1/8 wheels...
View attachment 595489 View attachment 595494
Grinding wheels are the opposite of lathes.
You can make small parts on a huge lathe ......but you can't make huge parts on a small lathe.

You can grind big chains with a small (thickness) wheel. But can't grind tiny tiny chains with a thick wheel.

The finish looks good. But with resinoid wheels more so, you can have a shiney finish that was too hot. With a finish that is burnished instead of cut that can happen. The wheel is shiney and loaded and the grinder does the regular "double tap" of little chops and then one long one at the end. The final cut taking away the burn marks.

The dresses wheel is very important. Dull is right.
 
Grinding wheels are the opposite of lathes.
You can make small parts on a huge lathe ......but you can't make huge parts on a small lathe.

You can grind big chains with a small (thickness) wheel. But can't grind tiny tiny chains with a thick wheel.

The finish looks good. But with resinoid wheels more so, you can have a shiney finish that was too hot. With a finish that is burnished instead of cut that can happen. The wheel is shiney and loaded and the grinder does the regular "double tap" of little chops and then one long one at the end. The final cut taking away the burn marks.

The dresses wheel is very important. Dull is right.
Ya I have talked to another guy that says the resinoid wheels are technically the best, but as you say you have to keep them shapes and dressed...i still use stone wheels for certain reasons, it's just the CBN wheels are much easier because they hold their shape....
 
Ya I have talked to another guy that says the resinoid wheels are technically the best, but as you say you have to keep them shapes and dressed...i still use stone wheels for certain reasons, it's just the CBN wheels are much easier because they hold their shape....
The resinoid part is the bond.
The resinoid wheels use CBN as the cutting medium.
They hold their shape.
There is dressing and dressing.
Dressing here is cleaning.
On a big grinder it means reshaping the wheel. Which can't be done on these grinders.
When you put a resinoid wheel on a arbor and dress it to that arbor it stays there. It may move from machine to machine but it stays on that arbor.
Dressing in this instance means taking some material off and making it OD concentric to the tapered center of the arbor.

But we aren't precision grinding.

But resinoid wheels won't need shaping. Just cleaning.
 

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