Novaknives
Treekiller
There doesn't seem to be much info on carbide chains on AS... Whats your experience with carbide chain? I`m looking for a carbide milling chain, does anyone have experience with this?
Carbide Chain
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While no experience on a saw I’ve had many years experience using carbide. Very heavy so extra strain on your saw, you will need a special wheel to sharpen it or sent to a shop with carbide sharpening capabilities, cost us very high.
I have no experience with it as far as milling/cutting firewood, but have used it several times at work on structure fires. Screws, nails, and soft metal don’t effect them at all. I’ve seen it used to cut the sheet metal on a semi trailer to gain access to a fire. The only one I’ve seen ruined was ran into a cast water radiator on the opposite side of a wall. You won’t find many people using them outside of fire rescue, or demolition crews due to expense, and difficulty sharpening.
Out side of FF uses they are worthless. The ones FF uses are specific for search and rescue where as cost is not a concern. Those have specific carbide cutting teeth. The carbide platted teeth are much better for cutting wood, but they are marginal for cutting wood in my point of view. A good high quality chain with a well setup saw is hard to beat. Thanks
LoveStihlQuality
Addicted to ArboristSite
There have been posts on carbide. Just search 'carbide'. Used them in fire service as noted . Carbide chains we used called a bullet chain made by or for Cutters Edge fire saws. Primarily for cutting ventilation holes. Actually not really very good at all for firewood cutting.
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Knobby57
Peeing outdoors
I’ve use the carbide chain that has the top of the tooth brazed to the cutter link . Works super well . Not all that fast . Semi chizel setup . Does hold up super well in dirty wood . Runs the same as Rm stihl chain . A nail will take the cutter tops off and if you try and cut roots it will blunt fast also . Now the full carbide chain like in rescue saws . About 4-5 times the price . Take a beating nails , staples . Chard wood doesn’t really take out a cutter . I have a dimond wheel not a CBN to sharpen then . You would loose 25% of the tooth on the tipped chain just to grind back to a 10 deg angle . Not a lot of meat on the bone
We used common semi-chisel last week for milling a 20' dia. walnut log. Worked very well. Carbide is not worth the incredible high price for milling logs. Initial cost is enormous, and wait until you have to pay to have it sharpened. Gasp!
fwgsaw
don't call me i will call you!!
Your experience on using carbide on a fire rescue saw differs from mine greatly. I've done many trench cut ventilation's on anything from motel roofs to houses and very rarely does a chain not get damaged. It will hold up better than a normal chain but unlike a regular chain that just dulls a carbide will chip or break off hitting anything metal at the speed the chain is running.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
To slow, to expensive for standard clean log milling. Nice setup for milling nasty stumps. Cut surface of the wood varied depending on type of wood however was decent, not great. I have not used any of the “newer types” of carbide chains.
I had a couple different sample loops, none inspired me to ever buy a roll for any reason. The carbide chains were power hungry and oil thirsty compared to a standard milling chain. Feed rates were down and the push needed was up compared to a normal milling chain.
Keep the chain clean, as in clean it and inspect it after use. As soon as the edge is off the carbide needs to be re ground, otherwise the damaged cutter will need to be replaced.
I think a lot of people’s frustration with carbide chains stems from thinking that the chain will stay “sharp” for a long time. It is better to think that it could continue to cut longer in an ideal situation than a normal chain. The carbide chain was never sharp, it has just enough of an edge to knock a chunk of wood loose.
If you do get a loop, spend the money on a really good metal detector and learn how to use it.
Before buying a loop find out who, where and how much to service the loop. Ask about servicing turnaround as the chain is often shipped out for sharpening or repairs.
Pricing could be decent or crazy depending, shop around a lot.
Conquistador3
Le Comte de Frou Frou
Apart from specialty products, such as chains for saws used by firefighters and in demolition works, most carbide chains are aimed at homeowners who don't care much how fast the chain cuts but want it to stay sharp as long as possible even if they cut dirty wood and/or hit dirt while bucking. Given the occasional nature of the work these chains are designed for, a homeowner can go even a few years without sharpening a chain.
In short they are not bad chains, when one accepts they are not designed to cut cord after cord at the highest speed possible but to stay sharp as long as possible even when hitting dirt left, right and center.
As I have a junk bar for my MS231 I have been toying with buying a carbide chain for it to cut stumps, but... the RD3 chain costs three times as much as ordinary Stihl .325" chain. Not something I'd like to pay just for fooling around once in a while.
In short they are not bad chains, when one accepts they are not designed to cut cord after cord at the highest speed possible but to stay sharp as long as possible even when hitting dirt left, right and center.
As I have a junk bar for my MS231 I have been toying with buying a carbide chain for it to cut stumps, but... the RD3 chain costs three times as much as ordinary Stihl .325" chain. Not something I'd like to pay just for fooling around once in a while.
Novaknives
Treekiller
Thanks for the information. Based off of what all of you have said I think I wont buy a chain unless they come down in price or I can find someone close by with a diamond wheel.
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