Chain is not cutting striaght

[ABOVE & BEYOND]

Anyone, As odd as this seems, I know what causes a chainsaw to cut uneven. I just don't know how to fix the chain without wearing my cutters and rakes down to nothing. I am operating a 440 Magnum Stihl and when cutting logs 10" in diameter and greater the chain pulls to the right (Looking down on the saw). All of my cuts made today were time consuming and always on an embarrasing angle.

So, with that being said....if the saw is always pulling to the right, do I need to file down the cutters on the right side to match the left side or vice versa. Please help.

Geoff

 

[Crofter]

Try this thread

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=16749&highlight=cutting+crooked

 

[Bermie]

Once you have checked out all your filing angles, cutter lengths and raker heights, and bar rail condition; as simple as this sounds, check how you are holding your saw. If your left hand is too far one way or the other on the handle you can inadvertently tip the saw and its weight will cause it to pull one way or the other, also check you are not subconciously twisting either hand while you cut. I have caught myself a few times doing this especially while crosscutting!

 

[clearance]

Bar is bent.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Bar is bent.

Very funny Clearance, but not true. A bent bar will cut straight and fast, it'll just cut with a curve.

It's most likely the bar rails are uneven, or the bar groove is worn.
The first thing to do is replace the rim on the clutch drum, then grind the bar rails flat. Depending on how old the chain is, you might want to just throw the chain away.

With a well cutting saw, you should be able to steer it as it goes through the wood. In other words, it should basically cut straight, but if you twist slightly on the handles, you should be able to cut a curve, left or right.
When I'm cutting off a stump, I look ahead, and if I see a patch of dirt I can steer the saw up and over it, and then back down to grade.

 

[OutOnaLimb]

It sounds like the bar is either worn on one side more than the other or simply there is a bur on the bar that will throw the chain off to the side as it passes through the wood. Sounds to me you need to dress, or replace your bar. Not the chain, but that could help to.

Kenn

 

[clearance]

Humor me-take the bar off and lay it on a good 4" level to see how straight it is.

 

[skwerl]

or flip the bar and see if it curves in the opposite direction.

 

[Crofter]

Mike I think if you do a close test on a bent bar you will see that it does more than cut a curve from a top view. I had a crooked bar that I noticed seemed to throw a lot of sawdust out over the nose once the outgoing chain entered the cut. Due to the tension on a chain and centrifual force the chain tries to span a straight line across the curve in the bar. The bottom of the chain is forced into the groove so it will cut closely following the curve of the bar but will still try to lean to the inside of the curve. Straightening the bar did improve the performance. I think in this instance that if the chain is still cutting crooked after good sharpening and a true bar, that one side of the chain rails and drive links are worn and it will take a new chain to straighten things out.

 

[tawilson]

So, with that being said....if the saw is always pulling to the right, do I need to file down the cutters on the right side to match the left side or vice versa. Please help.
Geoff

You need to find the shortest cutter, and file all of them down to that, or close anyways. Chances are, your cutters are longer on one side. After a few touchup sharpenings, my cutters usually need evening up. I guess it's cause I'm lefthanded.

 

[PTS]

I would suggest taking the chain to a saw repair shop where they regularly sharpen chains on machine. If the operator of the machine is good there will be very little loss of material and the problem will be fixed. Many swear by sharpening by hand and some of my guys refuse to do anything but by hand, but when it is that far out of wack the 3-5 dollars it will cost is worth it.

 

[ozy365]

Anti vibe handles can factor in as well. Twist the power head against the log when you are in the kerf. If I get fatigued, I find I curve to the right as well..."staightening" the power head while in the cut seems to clear that up.

 

[ABOVE & BEYOND]

guys, thanks for all the help. I will take all of the learnings from this thread and apply it to the bar and chain. Hopefully, after I have put the bar on a 4 foot level and put every cutter and rake on the micrometer, I will have a saw that cuts straight. Chances are that I will end up buying a new bar and Chain , but I wanted to be able to problem solve before throwing in the towel. Again, Thank you! Geoff

 

[tawilson]

I keep some packages of those wooden shims around. They're handy for cleaning out the groove and scraping crud off the saw. I also lay one across the bar to see how even the rails when it's in the vise. They are also handy for stirring paint and digging cat food out of the can. You can even shim with them.

 

[BlackenedTimber]

definately have the cutters squared away by a saw shop. if your lucky, it will only cost 3-5 bucks, like PTS said. Mine cost me about 8-10, but thier big chains and I live in New York. wooopie.

 

[PTS]

Thought this might Help.

 

[PTS]

Speaking of scraping crud out of the bar. My guys prefer their driver's license. I like it because it means they are carrying it.

I have to admitt. That is my tool of choice also.

 

[skwerl]

PTS, I started using a 1.5" stiff putty knife many years ago. Have tried other tools since but always go back to the putty knife. They're cheap, too. About $3 for the good ones at Home Depot or any hardware store.

 

[PTS]

Driver's License are $1 to replace if broken and you should have it with you

 

[PTS]

I should also add, I really like the DL because it is plastic and it won't scatch or scar the inside of the bar.


Not sure if that would really make a differance or not.?.?.?