chain oiling woes-remington sl-11,auto oiler

[ruble]

I was wondering if anybody can tell me the operating fundimentals of the automatic oiling system of a remington sl-11/65cc saw.It seems that the problem lies in the fitting attaching to the oil tank and connecting the line going to the cylinder.It seems that this fitting should work as a check valve.ButI have opened it up,there's nothing in it except for a filter-screen.From the screen(1/4")the inside of the fitting tapers down to about(1/8")in the space of about 3/8 of an inch.can someone tell me if something is missing?I purchased it after it was sitting for a while.It starts easy,runs well,but developed severe smoking problem after about 2 tanks of fuel.the smoking then turned into a oiling problem.When shut off the oil backs into the cylinder locking it up.I can then clean the cyl. out but it just does it again.I really want to keep the saw but it seems that nobody has the answer that i am looking for.I'd be thankful for any ideas even modifications that will get me going again.

 

[Chain Gang]

Hi Ruble,

Sounds like the oil pump diaphram has ruptured. The diaphram uses crankcase pressure variation to pump oil. When the rubber gets old it can get hard and rupture, especially from a backfire. When it ruptures, bar oil will flow into the engine and cause smoking but will not flow to the chain.

The diaphram is located under a small, usually metal cover about the size of a nickel and will usually have a small plastic/rubber hose coming out of it. It will be mounted to the wall of the crankcase, probably under the pull-start assembly. Sorry, but I have never worked on a Remmington saw so I can't be more specific.

Good Luck,

Carroll

 

[ruble]

CHAIN GANG, thanks for the reply,It seems that this saw does not have an oil pump,but instead uses the pressure from the cylinder with some sort of a check-valve which I believe should be located in the fitting feeding into the oil tank.I have heard that there might be some sort of a rubber valve,I emptied the oil tank and found a small black rubber type "substance" that at one time could have been a valve.It seems that this saw is a real oddball as far as getting information on it.Again thank's, any help is appreciated.

 

[HomeDelight Man]

I think you are right about the check valve, I also remember some knid of cotton mesh pickup. I also think that the auto oiler is directly linked in with the manual oiler. I worked on a sl-4 and when you pull the throttle it would open the bottom side of the manual oiler oiler pump. Strange system, diffenately try to find a new check valve.

 

[Mike Acres]

The line running from the cylinder to the oil tank feeds pressure pulses into the oil tank and there is a check valve to allow the pressure in and prevent the oil from getting back into the engine. It sounds like the check valve is not doing it's job.The check valve is located in the elbow where the pressure line feeds into the oil tank. It should have a ball and spring captive in it. Sometimes they came out and the result is as you describe. The oiler is both manual and automatic. The automatic part works by pressure that is built up in the tank from the pulsations coming from the cylinder. There is a little lever that is attached to a valve on the right side of the fuel tank that you use to turn on the oil flow, and also to shut if off again. The manual oiler will not work unless the little valve is open. It is a long time since I last worked on one and all my manuals are at the office. It is possible on the later versions that a trigger actuated valve will release oil and there is no manual shut-off.
I hope that this is of help.

 

[ruble]

HOME DELIGHT,MIKE ACRES, I do believe that you are right, the cotton pick-up, though in good shape, was collapsing so I opened it up by screwing a spring into it, now it is in like new. The system is exactly as you descibe and there is also a check valve on the fitting coming out of the oil tank. I would think that it is for the manual oiler. This check valve has a steel ball and spring.It cannot be opened up so I cannot compare the two. On the problem fitting I tried several small "ball bearing" and spring combinations but cannot get a good seal. Because of the "taper" I described above,there is no good seating position for the spring and virtuly no seat for the ball. If I reverse the ball and spring I get a good seal. But the flow is reversed. Could it be that the fitting had a flap (similar to that found on some venting systems for pressure relief)? The oiltank side of the fitting is not cut flush, but is rounded. It seems posible that there could have been an Umbrella shaped valve with the stem going into the fitting and if made of rubber the taper would hold it in.What would you recommend as a fix?.....note: both sides of fitting are threaded differently.