im new to the firewood chopping and splitting. i am going to be cutting about 8 cords a year im looking for a nice chain that will really let the sawdust fly and cut quickly through some trees.i currently have a remington outlaw but im switching to a husky 455 rancher.
Chainsaw Chain types
- Thread starter Jeremy K
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Do a search here. There is a ton of good information on chain. But whatever you go with make sure you keep it sharp. Dust is bad. Chips are good.
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
Two basic types of chain. Sharp and dull. Learn to make yours sharp, and you'll be happy.
Thanks for the replies, I'm just wondering what the difference between anti kick back,chisel and semi chisel is, I bought a jonsered chain a couple weeks back and it throws chips well I'm sure it's anti kick back since I got it from tractor supply.
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In my opinion there are two chains. Chisel and semi chisel. In a similar thread it is mentioned that there are about 10 major chains available for most saws. For most part the previous mentioned chains come down to two types. The chisel is more aggressive than the semi chisel which has rounded cutting teeth. The rounded cutting teeth are much more forgiving when coming with a little dirt or debri. Of course there are many speciality chains, but we are taking about commonly used chains. The low kick back chains have links that stick up above the actual chain links so that a person can not jam the tip of the saw in to a piece of wood and get full contact with the cutting teeth. This chain design will jerk up much less than a pro design chain. For a beginner a low kick back design is much more preferred so that the cutting experience is not marred with severe injury. I have used the rancher saws which are pretty good. My smaller saws are the Husky 460 because I wanted some throw away saws. There is only a small amount of difference in the Husky 455 and the Husky 460. They are a great value. Thanks
Streblerm
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Ted Jenkins is right on the money about there really only being two types of chain with some variation. There is a lot of truth to what HuskStihl said about sharp vs dull chains.
A low kickback chain has more raker sticking up between the cutters on the chain. The main purpose is to prevent the tip of the bar from being used to cut. This helps to prevent kickback as the tip of the bar tends to cause the most violent kickback. As the chain curves around the tip, the rakers hold the cutter away from the wood. The downside to this is that you can't "plunge cut" with low kickback chain. That would be applying pressure with the tip of the bar while cutting. This is a somewhat advanced technique that mostly is used when falling problem trees. They can also be more time consuming to sharpen because you need to file down the extra raker as the cutter shortens from sharpening.
A well sharpened safety chain will cut just as well as non safety chain using the top or bottom of the bar.
A low kickback chain has more raker sticking up between the cutters on the chain. The main purpose is to prevent the tip of the bar from being used to cut. This helps to prevent kickback as the tip of the bar tends to cause the most violent kickback. As the chain curves around the tip, the rakers hold the cutter away from the wood. The downside to this is that you can't "plunge cut" with low kickback chain. That would be applying pressure with the tip of the bar while cutting. This is a somewhat advanced technique that mostly is used when falling problem trees. They can also be more time consuming to sharpen because you need to file down the extra raker as the cutter shortens from sharpening.
A well sharpened safety chain will cut just as well as non safety chain using the top or bottom of the bar.
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
Try googling "semi-chisel vs full-chisel chain". Also, try "green label vs yellow label chain". That should get you started.
More important than chain type is knowing how to keep it sharp. Find someone who can file by hand and learn from them. This is very important. A dull chain will cut poorly and will dramatically shorten the service life of a chainsaw.
More important than chain type is knowing how to keep it sharp. Find someone who can file by hand and learn from them. This is very important. A dull chain will cut poorly and will dramatically shorten the service life of a chainsaw.
Ugh! I once decided to enter and thoroughly explore the world of chains. What a nightmare! There are SO MANY STINKIN' KINDS. After my frustrating research and a bit of experimenting with different chains, I decided semi-chisel was the best all-around chain for my uses. Full-chisel was too much maintenance and sharpening and I didn't really see a tremendous difference.
So my advice, like most others here, is get semi and learn to file it. Many of us will argue that hand filing is quickest and easiest and cheapest, so do your research on that.
So my advice, like most others here, is get semi and learn to file it. Many of us will argue that hand filing is quickest and easiest and cheapest, so do your research on that.
Welcome to A.S.!
Lots of opinions. Depends how you use your saws. As noted:
- 'Full-chisel' chain cuts faster, but can dull faster. I consider it like high performance tires on a sports car;
- 'Semi-chisel' chain cuts a little slower, but keeps cutting longer. I consider it tone the 'all-season radial' that is best for most cars, all around;
- Modern low-kickback chains work fine for firewood cutting on bars up to 24"or so. They don't carry chips as well on longer bars *if fully buried in the log*. You an bore cut with them, they are just a little slower at it.
As suggested, a semi-chisel, low-kick back chain that is properly sharpened will kick the butt of a full-chisel chain that is not.
I usually suggest that people buy a couple of different kinds of chains, and compare them themselves, side-by-side, on their saw, in their wood, doing the type of cutting that they do.
Note that you will be limited in the types of chains available at a home center. For more variety you will have to visit a full service saw dealer, or a catalog vendor like Bailey's.
Philbert
Lots of opinions. Depends how you use your saws. As noted:
- 'Full-chisel' chain cuts faster, but can dull faster. I consider it like high performance tires on a sports car;
- 'Semi-chisel' chain cuts a little slower, but keeps cutting longer. I consider it tone the 'all-season radial' that is best for most cars, all around;
- Modern low-kickback chains work fine for firewood cutting on bars up to 24"or so. They don't carry chips as well on longer bars *if fully buried in the log*. You an bore cut with them, they are just a little slower at it.
As suggested, a semi-chisel, low-kick back chain that is properly sharpened will kick the butt of a full-chisel chain that is not.
I usually suggest that people buy a couple of different kinds of chains, and compare them themselves, side-by-side, on their saw, in their wood, doing the type of cutting that they do.
Note that you will be limited in the types of chains available at a home center. For more variety you will have to visit a full service saw dealer, or a catalog vendor like Bailey's.
Philbert
Tractor supply brand "county line" is rebrand trilink, and its non-safety
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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines
Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
I should also say that even a safety chain cuts well when it's sharp. Whenever I buy a saw that comes with one, I usually get a few sharpenings out of it before I chuck it and move up to a semi chisel.
Which WoodlandPro chain would that be? Just pointing out that many different chain types carry that brand. Under the labeling, they are Carlton chains, made by the same corp. (Blount) that makes Oregon.
They vary, no big surprise there. I like their 30RP (ripping) and 30SC (semi-chisel) chains, and buy them by the 100' reel. The 30SC comes off the reel with a notably sharper edge. Means little, a kiss with a file and all is well.
As stated earlier, semi-chisel retains its edge waaaaaay longer than full-chisel in ANY wood, clean, dirty, whatever. Works pretty weel too, for ripping logs- chainsaw milling.
Bailey's is now re-branding some Tri-Link chain as 'WoodlandPro' for some models. Pays to ask up front.
Philbert
maplegrovetom
ArboristSite Lurker
A chisel chain is good for cutting trees down. A semi-chisel is best for cutting trees up. Try them both and you'll understand, and neither is worth a damn if it's dull!!!
"Semi-chisel is the 'all season radial' of saw chains" - Philbert
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