Chainsaw Mill or Bandsaw Mill

[Derik]

Hey folks, I've been woodworking a bit and would like to harvest my own lumber.

I was looking into a chainsaw mill due to its portability, but the only problem I would have is the amount of waste. It's really not that big of a problem, would be a bit of an annoyance.

Is there different reasons to run a bandsaw mill? Other than the waste factor.

The cost for a chainsaw and a mill would run me about $1200-$1300, would be using the Granberg Alaskan Mill, 36".

I have no idea what a decent bandsaw mill would run, I checked harbor freight and they have one for around $2000.

 

[Henry3120xp]

Hey folks, I've been woodworking a bit and would like to harvest my own lumber.

I was looking into a chainsaw mill due to its portability, but the only problem I would have is the amount of waste. It's really not that big of a problem, would be a bit of an annoyance.

Is there different reasons to run a bandsaw mill? Other than the waste factor.

The cost for a chainsaw and a mill would run me about $1200-$1300, would be using the Granberg Alaskan Mill, 36".

I have no idea what a decent bandsaw mill would run, I checked harbor freight and they have one for around $2000.

My opinion is that saw kerf or waste per cut is one of the least important considerations when choosing milling methods. There are many considerations much more important to consider. I would say that what kind of lumber you want to produce would be the primary consideration. Most entry level bandmills have very limited cutting capacity. What size logs will you be processing? I would say one of the most important things to consider is do you have equipment to move logs to the sawmill and get them on the mill? Entry level mills don’t have a log loader. Green sawlogs can weigh several thousand pounds and are very hard to roll on the mill by hand. Chainsaw mills give you the ability to mill the log where it falls so that’s a very important consideration. If you plan to run a 36 inch mill the saw alone will cost over a thousand dollars and a 36” Granberg C2 mill package is $800 plus shipping. You can just buy the mill and use a standard bar but it won’t do as well as their milling bar will. I have a 48” mill and sometimes use a shorter standard bar to mill smaller logs, just to reduce the weight. It doesn’t produce as smooth a cut as the milling bar will since its not as wide. It’s not a huge difference but it usually requires an extra trip or two thru the planner. When bandmill blades start to dull the cut will drift more and make boards that are very difficult to get planned because of their varying thickness. When a saw chain dulls the cut rate slows way down but is still fairly accurate.
If you plan to mill mostly 4/4 lumber a bandmill would probably be a better option.
If you want big live edge slabs a chainsaw mill is a lot more practical and affordable.

 

[Derik]

I have access to logs between 16-28" I diameter. I would be cutting mesquite, it rarely grows straight so the lengths will be under 10'. It's even rarer to find a mesquite tree bigger than 32", if you do find one, it's usually already spoken for.

I do have a tractor with hydraulics to move bigger logs around, that's not a problem.

Seems chainsaw mill is better suited, I plan on cutting slabs, live edge, perhaps every once in awhile 4/4, 8/4 lumber.

 

[Brian72]

Unless you're going to do very wide slabs, get a bandmill. Check out Hudson, Norwood, Woodmizer etc. They have some very affordable starter mills that are a better choice than Harbor Freight. Chainsaw mills are great for big stuff but otherwise, a bandmill will give you much better production. Chainsaw mills are slower, waste more material, very labor-intensive and not exactly cheap.

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[Bmac]

Moving the logs is a key consideration, so the fact you have the means to do that is important if you decide on a bandsaw mill.

I use a chainsaw mill because I have trouble moving logs. I minimize waste by milling everything 9/4, after drying I resaw on my bandsaw in my shop, this is one way I get around the waste factor. I also think I get less warping with my lumber while drying. Last year I milled well over 30 logs with my chainsaw mill, most logs around 7 feet long, but many of them well over 24" diameter. Brian72 is right, it is hard work, but I look at it this way, I just don't need to go to the gym.

Another option to consider is to get a bunch of logs, move to a site you can mill them, and then hire a sawyer with a bandsaw mill. At the very least this might be something you want to do before you buy a bandsaw mill, you'll learn a lot and you might find this is a cheaper option.

 

[Henry3120xp]

I have access to logs between 16-28" I diameter. I would be cutting mesquite, it rarely grows straight so the lengths will be under 10'. It's even rarer to find a mesquite tree bigger than 32", if you do find one, it's usually already spoken for.

I do have a tractor with hydraulics to move bigger logs around, that's not a problem.

Seems chainsaw mill is better suited, I plan on cutting slabs, live edge, perhaps every once in awhile 4/4, 8/4 lumber.

It really does depend a lot on your particular situation. I’d say there are many considerations other than desired board size. There are plenty of pros and cons for either method. It is true that chainsaw milling is labor intensive but so are all starter bandmills. They require just as much effort to push the saw carriage as it takes for a chainsaw mill, but you don’t have to carry the sawhead on the return trip. Most don’t have any log loaders or turners. It requires massive effort to load and turn logs, personally I think that’s harder than carrying my mill. I run a 3120xp with a 48” Granberg C2. It’s 53 pounds without fuel or oil, while that’s too heavy for lots of people I find that easier than trying to roll a 1500 pound log once you’ve made the first two cuts. For me the Alaska mill is better, but I’m certain there are plenty of people that would be better off with a band mill. Either way it’s a lot of money.
I’m sure that for every reason I could give to go with a chainsaw mill others could give just as good a reason to get a bandmill. Just think (a lot) about your needs and which will best fill those.

 

[Derik]

Bandsaw mill is quite a bit more expensive too it seems, even the starter mills, that's a considering factor. For something I want to use for my own benefit, it's rather difficult to verify spending 4-7k on a mill.

I couldn't really sell lumber considering there's a sawmill about 30 minutes away from me. They are expensive, they're a permanent mill so you would have to bring the wood to them.

Considering what everyone has mentioned, I'm leaning towards the chainsaw mill.

I was planning on building an overhead shed, where I can mill out of the weather and use it for stacking and drying out.

Bmac, cutting the lumber 9/4 is a great idea. Mesquite doesn't move much even while drying, but I'll do the same.

 

[Bmac]

Derik, what kind of wood working do you do?

I find that milling anything over 8 feet long is just a pain, as I seldom ever need lumber that long for my wood working projects.
The shorter length lets me move the boards, stack the boards and etc much more easily. I even mill quite a few logs shorter than 8 feet.

Remember to seal the ends, don't skimp and use old paint, do yourself a favor and use anchorseal.

 

[Derik]

Derik, what kind of wood working do you do?

I find that milling anything over 8 feet long is just a pain, as I seldom ever need lumber that long for my wood working projects.
The shorter length lets me move the boards, stack the boards and etc much more easily. I even mill quite a few logs shorter than 8 feet.

Remember to seal the ends, don't skimp and use old paint, do yourself a favor and use anchorseal.

Mostly woodturning. But I'm making small tables, benches, stuff like that

 

[Bmac]

If that's the case than I would mill shorter logs.
Milling shorter logs is also easier on your saw as you don't have to run it wide open as long.

 

[Derik]

If that's the case than I would mill shorter logs.
Milling shorter logs is also easier on your saw as you don't have to run it wide open as long.

I would probably be working 5' logs. Maybe a bit longer than that. Is that confirmation to pull for the chainsaw mill?

I was talking with a buddy earlier, he tried a chainsaw mill and it walked on him. Cut crooked and dived

 

[Bmac]

It's my understanding that the bandsaw mills do have some trouble with shorter logs, no firsthand knowledge, but it is what I've heard.

My experience, and I'm sure many others on here would agree, is that with some practice and the right stuff, a chainsaw mill will cut very accurately. I'm amazed at the lumber I can produce with my chainsaw mill, but it does take some trial and error to master it.

 

[Derik]

It's my understanding that the bandsaw mills do have some trouble with shorter logs, no firsthand knowledge, but it is what I've heard.

My experience, and I'm sure many others on here would agree, is that with some practice and the right stuff, a chainsaw mill will cut very accurately. I'm amazed at the lumber I can produce with my chainsaw mill, but it does take some trial and error to master it.

Chainsaw mill it is then. Would you enlighten me on some of the trial and error you've learned?

It seems pretty straight forward to me, you set up the rails properly and the mill, the initial cut would be most critical.

Seeing already that the saw might get pinched, towards the end of the cut, I would use wedges to support the board.

Any other pointers?

 

[Brian72]

Chainsaw mill it is then. Would you enlighten me on some of the trial and error you've learned?

It seems pretty straight forward to me, you set up the rails properly and the mill, the initial cut would be most critical.

Seeing already that the saw might get pinched, towards the end of the cut, I would use wedges to support the board.

Any other pointers?

Getting one end up and running downhill works very well. Rails that extend beyond the log help with starting and finishing the cut. Don't rock the bar, keep it straight. A nice steady feed will give you a much better finish. Be very good at sharpening. Milling dulls the chain faster than crosscutting. Buy a metal detector (a cheap wand type from Harbor Freight or similar works well.) Removing the felling spikes will gain you a little more cut width. As far as chain, I normally run regular Stihl RS and RS skip on my longer bars.

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[Brian72]

Getting one end up and running downhill works very well. Rails that extend beyond the log help with starting and finishing the cut. Don't rock the bar, keep it straight. A nice steady feed will give you a much better finish. Be very good at sharpening. Milling dulls the chain faster than crosscutting. Buy a metal detector (a cheap wand type from Harbor Freight or similar works well.) Removing the felling spikes will gain you a little more cut width. As far as chain, I normally run regular Stihl RS and RS skip on my longer bars.

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Also, wedge the kerf as you go to keep it from pinching.

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[Derik]

Getting one end up and running downhill works very well. Rails that extend beyond the log help with starting and finishing the cut. Don't rock the bar, keep it straight. A nice steady feed will give you a much better finish. Be very good at sharpening. Milling dulls the chain faster than crosscutting. Buy a metal detector (a cheap wand type from Harbor Freight or similar works well.) Removing the felling spikes will gain you a little more cut width. As far as chain, I normally run regular Stihl RS and RS skip on my longer bars.

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Never would have thought to run down hill, less labor. I'll be working about waist height, but I can arrange the log bed to be declined.

How often do you sharpen? I'll be running an Echo saw, and ripping chain from bailey's

 

[Brian72]

Never would have thought to run down hill, less labor. I'll be working about waist height, but I can arrange the log bed to be declined.

How often do you sharpen? I'll be running an Echo saw, and ripping chain from bailey's

Really depends. Species, width and length can vary. On this Walnut, with my 36" bar I was sharpening about every third cut. Soft woods are a little easier. It's certainly easier to touch it up every couple of passes than to let it get too dull. You'll feel the difference. I usually have a few chains ready to go and swap them out. I have a 28, 36 and 50" bar. Skip chain works better on the longer bars as it clears chips better.

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[Derik]

Really depends. Species, width and length can vary. On this Walnut, with my 36" bar I was sharpening about every third cut. Soft woods are a little easier. It's certainly easier to touch it up every couple of passes than to let it get too dull. You'll feel the difference. I usually have a few chains ready to go and swap them out. I have a 28, 36 and 50" bar. Skip chain works better on the longer bars as it clears chips better.

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I was about to say, you could be able.to tell by the chips and the feel. I can tell when cross cutting regular brush. Mesquite is a pain in the ass to work with so I'll try to touch up on the chain every fill up on fuel.

The saw I'll be buying has a max bar length of 36" it's more than I'll need

 

[Brian72]

I was about to say, you could be able.to tell by the chips and the feel. I can tell when cross cutting regular brush. Mesquite is a pain in the ass to work with so I'll try to touch up on the chain every fill up on fuel.

The saw I'll be buying has a max bar length of 36" it's more than I'll need

I do recommend buying a bigger mill than you "think" you"ll need. Always better to have more if you decide to get longer bars later. I bought the 48" mill and glad I did. I can run all my bars with this setup.

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[Derik]

I do recommend buying a bigger mill than you "think" you"ll need. Always better to have more if you decide to get longer bars later. I bought the 48" mill and glad I did. I can run all my bars with this setup.

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That's what I've been told before. OnE reason why I'll get the 36" mill