Chip jamming

[SmellyPirateHooker]

OK, so I put the 8 pin driver on the cs620 (
7 was stock) and 24" bar. Results are interesting, really fast in the cut but slightly difficult to maintain cutting. Least In the 20" +oak round I was using. But there's an issue, 3/4 if the way through every cut chips jam it up, lodging between the chain and bar on the cutting side. Is this a chip removal issue where a full skip might help or a geometry issue? The chain angle on the bar ramps doesn't seem too out of spec to me. What do you guys think?

 

[Franny K]

Why don't you use drive sprockets with holes in the sides or if that has holes why not turn it over? Some smaller sprockets are radially ported.

 

[homemade]

How slopped out is the bar gauge?

 

[Westboastfaller]

It can be both. Thats too big for a 59 cc saw anyway. Is that a small mount bar?.
looks like it is. It would be seseptable to pproblems like that as you see it raises the chain off the bar. Also a bad combo for chain throws. If that's the case then never use the eight. It's hard on the saw too with the full house chain combo.

Also It will happen when the chain slows down and centripital force is lost. the chips have room to get under and jam easy. That is general what happens with 7 Ts

 

[SmellyPirateHooker]

Why don't you use drive sprockets with holes in the sides or if that has holes why not turn it over? Some smaller sprockets are radially ported.

Hmm, it's got holes...
Never had an issue so didn't bother?

 

[SmellyPirateHooker]

How slopped out is the bar gauge?

It's fairly perfect

 

[SmellyPirateHooker]

It can be both. Thats too big for a 59 cc saw anyway. Is that a small mount bar?.
looks like it is. It would be seseptable to pproblems like that as you see it raises the chain off the bar. Also a bad combo for chain throws. If that's the case then never use the eight. It's hard on the saw too with the full house chain combo.

Also It will happen when the chain slows down and centripital force is lost. the chips have room to get under and jam easy. That is general what happens with 7 Ts

It's Stihl medium mount with Cannon bar adapter. Worked fine with both 24" and 32" bar. I've ran this same saw with the 32" and LGX chain fully burried (and did so easily) noodling in oak, and I purchased this saw to play so let's move on to the actual issues. I'm wondering if the back of the bar is too close to the driver and needs to be trimmed so chips clear better.

 

[SmellyPirateHooker]

As you can see this saw has power to spare. Perticularly going back down to the 24 from this 32

 

[Westboastfaller]

I would have problems with a 7T in hard wood with my ported 357 bucking even smaller than 20" wood with an aggressive full house chain if I ran it too close to the log using the dogs or not but if I backed it off 4-5 inches it wouldn't jam.
You are just running a factory stock chain by the looks of it? You could try a 1/4 in file and/or maintain 10° upwards
It will calm down the pull as those blue tip Oregon chains may be a little too much hook for what you are doing.
Stuff you can play with.
Doesn't make any sense going to a skip where you lose 1/3 of your cutters for 1/8 more chain speed.
First thing you do is drop sprocket size and then chain intervals...no?

 

[cus_deluxe]

8 pin with a 24” bar on a 60cc saw?

 

[cus_deluxe]

Ive heard good things about those saws, but the fact is that saw just doesnt have the nads to do anything close to what ur asking of it.

 

[old guy]

Yeah that was pretty slow noodling, if you had a 20'' bar with a 7 pin rim you could have noodled those pieces individually & been done quicker.

 

[Westboastfaller]

It's Stihl medium mount with Cannon bar adapter. Worked fine with both 24" and 32" bar. I've ran this same saw with the 32" and LGX chain fully burried (and did so easily) noodling in oak, and I purchased this saw to play so let's move on to the actual issues. I'm wondering if the back of the bar is too close to the driver and needs to be trimmed so chips clear better.

The mount as in Ko 95 mount is described by the tail width not the width of the stud slot.
again is it a small mount or a large mount. I can not see videos but dude its a 59cc saw.
It has no business with an 8 tooth even with a large mount bar which I'm sure its not. I would never run one with a ported 390xp even. Maybe if one was slashing brush with 372 but
never Falling and bucking.

*Edit
that is a small mount bar.
drivers won't raise on an 8T over a large mount.
chain throw city. happy filling

 

[SmellyPirateHooker]

WTF let's focus people. I'm not asking you if I should be doing this. Let's focus on the chip issue so we can get on with video and results. The bar is in fact Stihl medium mount, as is the 32". I know, I purchased them as well as the adapter Now for the driver, that driver was on the 288xp who's bar isn't exactly huge either in the back, but being you mentioned it I'll stack them and see. Someone elsewhere mentioned the distance between driver and the back of the bar was too short, so I'm trimming that later on today.

 

[SmellyPirateHooker]

Yeah that was pretty slow noodling, if you had a 20'' bar with a 7 pin rim you could have noodled those pieces individually & been done quicker.

Wasn't a test of speed it was a test of weather it had the power to do so or not and it had a 7 pin with the 32

 

[cuinrearview]

Ive heard good things about those saws, but the fact is that saw just doesnt have the nads to do anything close to what ur asking of it.

Apparently you weren't listening. It's an ECHO 620 bro...

 

[SmellyPirateHooker]

The post is simply about the chip issue, Ill sort out how it does and post it. It's simple experimentation and that experiment can't keep going until the chip issue is fixed.

 

[cuinrearview]

Sometimes the clutch cover has to be creatively clearanced to run some combos.

 

[Westboastfaller]

. The bar is in fact Stihl medium mount, as is the 32".

Semantics. OK Stihl does it different. Makes more sense they do it that way as they have differently slot sizes. You also wouldn't see a husky small mount over 24". I'll stay way from small,medium and large mount and call it a snub tail that mates up for a 8T. That bar does not match up is the fact. shortening tails are done usually to match them up not create gap. if you want to create gap then add a driver?? You should have added one for the adapter and one for the 8T . For anything more you have the wrong tail shape. No more clues left in the clue closet son

The post is simply about the chip issue, Ill sort out how it does and post it. It's simple experimentation and that experiment can't keep going until the chip issue is fixed.

Be a little more clear in your OP then.
Maybe you should have said ...'I already have gotten advice from someone on a different site and I already know what I am going to do. I will dismiss all that will be said here and smart all of you off. I am also not open to learning anything in this process. Oh and it's an 'experiment'.

What's up with the other question? ... about ramping and skip vs full comp.

I told you there is two problems with ramping on that bar and one is directly *related to pluging.

Its a 'snowball effect of sort.
apparently this experiment is open to Skip chain with an 8T.

Why don't you tell us about your experiment then? we are all ears

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Yeah that was pretty slow noodling, if you had a 20'' bar with a 7 pin rim you could have noodled those pieces individually & been done quicker.

I agree , not the best combo for saw longevity either ... Echo recommends 16-27” bars for that 620 Saw ; if you want/need to run a 32” bar get a larger power head and be done with it ... unless you like watching paint-dry lol