Chip jamming

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Problem fixed. Took a crappy Oregon bar from my husky and cut 1/4" off the tail. Works great other then I have some oil port work to do, it's not oiling great. I'll do that this weekend beings it's a wash here anyway. I'll have a video sometime next week, but I can already tell you from that run... It doesn't care about that bigger driver.
 
Semantics. OK Stihl does it different. Makes more sense they do it that way as they have differently slot sizes. You also wouldn't see a husky small mount over 24". I'll stay way from small,medium and large mount and call it a snub tail that mates up for a 8T. That bar does not match up is the fact. shortening tails are done usually to match them up not create gap. if you want to create gap then add a driver?? You should have added one for the adapter and one for the 8T . For anything more you have the wrong tail shape. No more clues left in the clue closet son
Be a little more clear in your OP then.
Maybe you should have said ...'I already have gotten advice from someone on a different site and I already know what I am going to do. I will dismiss all that will be said here and smart all of you off. I am also not open to learning anything in this process. Oh and it's an 'experiment'.

What's up with the other question? ... about ramping and skip vs full comp.

I told you there is two problems with ramping on that bar and one is directly *related to pluging.

Its a 'snowball effect of sort.
apparently this experiment is open to Skip chain with an 8T.

Why don't you tell us about your experiment then? we are all ears
Simple really. Echo got close to the same HP as stihl and husky but did it with a smaller bore and larger stroke. This makes getting the HP hard but makes for an engine that will like workloads better. It also means it will naturally be a tad off on RPM. So if it likes to work, let it work! My original plan was to fully port it and then go an 8 pin on the 24". After it took the 32" pretty much like it did the 30" and 28", I figured why wait. It turns out I'm not the first sadly, ran into a guy today who has an 8 pin and his is ported. That 15% added speed sure makes up for that RPM difference, and then some.
 
Hmm, it's got holes...
Never had an issue so didn't bother?

If you are running a rim sprocket, it may have scalloped holes on one side of it....those are supposed to face out to help clear chips. Stihl rim sprockets are made that way, don't know about other brands.

Not saying that's the problem but it might be a contributing factor.
 
If you are running a rim sprocket, it may have scalloped holes on one side of it....those are supposed to face out to help clear chips. Stihl rim sprockets are made that way, don't know about other brands.

Not saying that's the problem but it might be a contributing factor.
It does and I didn't know that, so I also changed that.
 
Simple really. Echo got close to the same HP as stihl and husky but did it with a smaller bore and larger stroke. This makes getting the HP hard but makes for an engine that will like workloads better. It also means it will naturally be a tad off on RPM. So if it likes to work, let it work! My original plan was to fully port it and then go an 8 pin on the 24". After it took the 32" pretty much like it did the 30" and 28", I figured why wait. It turns out I'm not the first sadly, ran into a guy today who has an 8 pin and his is ported. That 15% added speed sure makes up for that RPM difference, and then some.
Yah , pulling a 32” bar with that saw is strain enough ... adding an 8pin rim is lugging it even more ... you need it ported first and even then an 8pin 24” is bout big as I wood go ... jmho ... Saw was meant to run at “x” rpm , 8 pin with 32” will cut no doubt but man what’s the point ? You’re beating the stuffing outta that 59cc stock saw with a 32” bar as it is (echo 16-27 recommendation) and now you are upping the gearing to an 8 pin ? That saws gonna puke it’s balls dude !
 
Yah , pulling a 32” bar with that saw is strain enough ... adding an 8pin rim is lugging it even more ... you need it ported first and even then an 8pin 24” is bout big as I wood go ... jmho ... Saw was meant to run at “x” rpm , 8 pin with 32” will cut no doubt but man what’s the point ? You’re beating the stuffing outta that 59cc stock saw with a 32” bar as it is (echo 16-27 recommendation) and now you are upping the gearing to an 8 pin ? That saws gonna puke it’s balls dude !
It's an Echo, not a stihl
 
Problem fixed. Took a crappy Oregon bar from my husky and cut 1/4" off the tail. Works great other then I have some oil port work to do, it's not oiling great. I'll do that this weekend beings it's a wash here anyway. I'll have a video sometime next week, but I can already tell you from that run... It doesn't care about that bigger driver.
We could make the assumption you tried a regular snub tail (husky large
mount) first without grinding a 1/4" off the tail? obviously that failed right? OMG j
 
Simple really. Echo got close to the same HP as stihl and husky but did it with a smaller bore and larger stroke. This makes getting the HP hard but makes for an engine that will like workloads better. It also means it will naturally be a tad off on RPM. So if it likes to work, let it work! My original plan was to fully port it and then go an 8 pin on the 24". After it took the 32" pretty much like it did the 30" and 28", I figured why wait. It turns out I'm not the first sadly, ran into a guy today who has an 8 pin and his is ported. That 15% added speed sure makes up for that RPM difference, and then some.
Thanks for the explanation. that's 12.5%.
Sounds reasonable to me.
balancing is my specialty. I have a lot of tools in my repertorye
Anyway...can YOU do this?
what can YOU do to balance?
Lets be fair since the plugging issue is no longer.....err...um...is this going to be painful?
 
Thanks for the explanation. that's 12.5%.
Sounds reasonable to me.
balancing is my specialty. I have a lot of tools in my repertorye
Anyway...can YOU do this?
what can YOU do to balance?
Lets be fair since the plugging issue is no longer.....err...um...is this going to be painful?
Painful? Like are you talking slow? I'm fairly sure you don't understand how hard of a cut that was for any saw. That perticularly oak sends a nice vibration down the bar on a regular cut let alone noodling. Even my modded 288xp wouldn't just fall through it. I guess it's my fault, I was looking for the hardest test I could for the 32", not simply a normal cut in softwood.
 
Simple really. Echo got close to the same HP as stihl and husky but did it with a smaller bore and larger stroke. This makes getting the HP hard but makes for an engine that will like workloads better. It also means it will naturally be a tad off on RPM.

What is the bore and stroke of the model in question here the CS620? Echo does not seem to put this kid of inforation in their owners or operator's manual.
 
Painful? Like are you talking slow? I'm fairly sure you don't understand how hard of a cut that was for any saw. That perticularly oak sends a nice vibration down the bar on a regular cut let alone noodling. Even my modded 288xp wouldn't just fall through it. I guess it's my fault, I was looking for the hardest test I could for the 32", not simply a normal cut in softwood.
no I did not see video.

painful meant you trying to figure it out. So far you have just showed a stock chain. stock angles may not work. So then what can YOU do to rectify this? Im wondering ? You have an abrupt additude but nothing to back it up.
 
Honestly I wonder why, what have you offered? Right from the start most of you completely failed to even address the post. I mean, what does the title say? Basically all of your information was of little or no use besides. You are all brand biased to a fault, you would literally sware you brand saw is better rather then seeing the merits of each. And then theres even simple cutting videos. I mean I'm not gods gift to forestry yet I immediately and fully understand how noodling in oak is one hell of a big difference in effort. I'm impressed and I don't impress easily. So far everything I've been told I couldn't do by people much like yourself here as been completely wrong. To the point I'm actually starting to enjoy this. Maybe I throw a 36" on that ****** little echo and do some wafers.... Cause if it can noodle a 32 it can most certainly wafer like a champ with a 36". And the crys... You cant do that.... Followed by "well of course my stihl can do that". It's a joke really, but I'll play, this is all for fun anyway.
 
And here's the kicker, I posted this same question on a few sites. The first reply on an echo only forum was the correct one, followed by another person saying the same thing. Probably because they could think clearly, rather then being so but hurt because an echo can actually do something better then the stihl and husky equivalent.
 
And here's the kicker, I posted this same question on a few sites. The first reply on an echo only forum was the correct one, followed by another person saying the same thing. Probably because they could think clearly, rather then being so but hurt because an echo can actually do something better then the stihl and husky equivalent.
Whether Saw is an echo , STIHL or husqvarna the concept is the same ... you are exceeding the mfg recommended bar length and upping the chain speed by 14% using an 8pin sprocket on a 59cc stock saw ... you are also LOSING 14% torque sir ... your “idea” that somehow echo makes less hp but because of its design makes more torque I find fascinating! If you continue with your testing you may find that you will need echos “5 yr warranty” but will be upset when they tell you “not covered / poor fuel mix”. Go right ahead and continue your testing , after all it is your saw that you bought and paid for !
 
T
What is the bore and stroke of the model in question here the CS620? Echo does not seem to put this kid of inforation in their owners or operator's manual.
They do in the shop manuals. It's 45mm as apposed to the 562xp 46mm. I believe the Stihl is also 46, could be wrong its been a bit.
 
Whether Saw is an echo , STIHL or husqvarna the concept is the same ... you are exceeding the mfg recommended bar length and upping the chain speed by 14% using an 8pin sprocket on a 59cc stock saw ... you are also LOSING 14% torque sir ... your “idea” that somehow echo makes less hp but because of its design makes more torque I find fascinating! If you continue with your testing you may find that you will need echos “5 yr warranty” but will be upset when they tell you “not covered / poor fuel mix”. Go right ahead and continue your testing , after all it is your saw that you bought and paid for !
Considering I purchased it explicitly to play with it means I've already taken that into consideration. I hope it blows up, it will give me a reason to jump into the cylinder all the faster. Of course these days, echo pro saws are probably the most reliable available and most likely won't blow up. That can be a test as well. I guess they aren't into using their customers for working out their issues. I can think of some huskies and Stihls that had issues as of late on their release.
 
I just have to laugh. I have never mentioned a brand per say. certainly have not said thing one in the negetory about Echo?

What Question did an Echo site answer that I didn't answer better? come on man! don't play me that way guy.
 
Considering I purchased it explicitly to play with it means I've already taken that into consideration. I hope it blows up, it will give me a reason to jump into the cylinder all the faster. Of course these days, echo pro saws are probably the most reliable available and most likely won't blow up. That can be a test as well. I guess they aren't into using their customers for working out their issues. I can think of some huskies and Stihls that had issues as of late on their release.
Mechanics who work on all 3 brands ; STIHL , husqvarna and Echo have told me STIHL outsells either competitor 10 to 1 and the saws in for repair are primarily echos ... ya get what ya PAY for my friend ! You wanna pay bills ? Run da ported STIHLS
 
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