Chip jamming

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Problem fixed. Took a crappy Oregon bar from my husky and cut 1/4" off the tail. Works great other then I have some oil port work to do, it's not oiling great. I'll do that this weekend beings it's a wash here anyway. I'll have a video sometime next week, but I can already tell you from that run... It doesn't care about that bigger driver.
Why did you cut the bar? That style tail is designed to run an 8T
and how much did the echo site guys say to cut off the other bar? can you answer this? and who gave you the truth about the bad match up between bar and 8T?

We can go on...and we will
 
Mechanics who work on all 3 brands ; STIHL , husqvarna and Echo have told me STIHL outsells either competitor 10 to 1 and the saws in for repair are primarily echos ... ya get what ya PAY for my friend ! You wanna pay bills ? Run da ported STIHLS
Didn't know selling more ment they were more reliable. Thanks for that brilliant insight. Most use Stihls cause they can simply drop off their saws and keep going to the point 3/4 don't even know how to work on their stuff anymore. Makes sense really, if your working on a saw your not cutting with one. People who work on all brands will tell you echo pro is the most reliable.
 
Why did you cut the bar?
and how much did the echo site guys say to cut off the other bar? can you answer this? and who gave you the truth about the wrong bar you had?

We can go on...and we will
Bigger driver takes up chain length moving the tail too close to the driver. Not enough gap between the two to drop chips out. Cutting a 1/4" off really just brought that gap back to factory specs on average.
 
Bigger driver takes up chain length moving the tail too close to the driver. Not enough gap between the two to drop chips out. Cutting a 1/4" off really just brought that gap back to factory specs on average.
I think that's what he's been hinting at, in his unique way. He suggested adding a driver to the chain, which effectively accomplishes the same thing. Only without boogering your bar.
 
I think that's what he's been hinting at, in his unique way. He suggested adding a driver to the chain, which effectively accomplishes the same thing. Only without boogering your bar.
Yeah you are right, but all that instant "that's too much bar blah blah blah that too much driver blah blah blah" crap pretty much shut me down on his posts. To the point I was only reading every other thing. Pretty much what he did with me form the start.
 
Yeah you are right, but all that instant "that's too much bar blah blah blah that too much driver blah blah blah" crap pretty much shut me down on his posts. To the point I was only reading every other thing. Pretty much what he did with me form the start.
There's a handful on here with a ton of knowledge/experience that like to add some extra "perspective". Especially with a guy that beats his chest, kinda like you are with the Echo. YMMV.
 
Didn't know selling more ment they were more reliable. (Yes it actually does guy) Thanks for that brilliant insight.(not a problem) Most use Stihls cause they can simply drop off their saws and keep going to the point 3/4 don't even know how to work on their stuff anymore.(no , dealer service and parts availablility) Makes sense really, if your working on a saw your not cutting with one. (Really ?) People who work on all brands will tell you echo pro is the most reliable.(simply not the truth sir)
 
Honestly it's not intended. I was simply going to post various videos on its ability and what it ends up being after changes I've made. Now in best 60cc saw post I might have been a bit but I was also being objective. I truly wanted to see if there was another saw out there that would pull the 32" in a tough cut like that or even better. Because I'd own that saw too. And I still haven't seen it.
 
I'm not judging, simply observing and commenting.

BTW, I think there was a fella out there selling on ebay putting obscenely long bars on little Stihls. With the right chain and enough patience, you can pull a lot with a little. My favorite description of it was "a dog dragging it's butt across the carpet". Personally, I like a smaller bar and the increased chain speed that comes with it. Some prefer porting to achieve it, I'm at the point now where if I want to run a longer bar I'll just build a larger cc powerhead to pull it to my liking.
 
Bigger driver takes up chain length moving the tail too close to the driver. Not enough gap between the two to drop chips out. Cutting a 1/4" off really just brought that gap back to factory specs on average.
???? For the first bar you would have had to have an extra driver in the chain anyway in order
to fit the insert adapter as it limits the throw unless you extend the bottom slot.
a 32" has to be 106 & 115 for 36" bar or they will not go on with Stihl lite anyways.
IF you did manage to get one on then you certainly couldn't have gotten an 8T

on...least not by the adjuster

Assuming you used the adjuster; until you say otherwise then that means the chain would be equal to a factory 7T on the Oregon bar. Follow? I'm saying you have an extra driver in there so the 8T puts it back to normal? That bar you put on is simply designed to run a 7or 8T.
The other one? not a chance.

Guy IDK if you are trolling, ir seems like it. if you are not then drop you condisending bs like back on page1 as in "Focus people" and "lets get back to the real issue" What the F* do you know?
How dare you talk to the people of this forum like that that are giving you their life's knowledge. If you are 'real' then get real.
 
OK, so I put the 8 pin driver on the cs620 (
7 was stock) and 24" bar. Results are interesting, really fast in the cut but slightly difficult to maintain cutting. Least In the 20" +oak round I was using. But there's an issue, 3/4 if the way through every cut chips jam it up, lodging between the chain and bar on the cutting side. Is this a chip removal issue where a full skip might help or a geometry issue? The chain angle on the bar ramps doesn't seem too out of spec to me. What do you guys think?
 
Thank you I just order one. Its on Its way *looks left looks right*

" Item DescriptionIt's
very easy to accidently hit the ground and rock your chain in any chainsaw application, chains are cheap so don't be left without an extra on hand. If you want to enter a drag race you should buy lots of horse power, if you want to cut logs with a chainsaw you should buy light weight."


Love that last sentence. The image left in your mind is so quite the opposite all though the things that can go with it may make it very true.
I guess bad advertising is 'Stihl' advertising.

Bad..very bad
 
Semantics. OK Stihl does it different. Makes more sense they do it that way as they have differently slot sizes. You also wouldn't see a husky small mount over 24". I'll stay way from small,medium and large mount and call it a snub tail that mates up for a 8T. That bar does not match up is the fact. shortening tails are done usually to match them up not create gap. if you want to create gap then add a driver?? You should have added one for the adapter and one for the 8T . For anything more you have the wrong tail shape. No more clues left in the clue closet son
Be a little more clear in your OP then.
Maybe you should have said ...'I already have gotten advice from someone on a different site and I already know what I am going to do. I will dismiss all that will be said here and smart all of you off. I am also not open to learning anything in this process. Oh and it's an 'experiment'.

What's up with the other question? ... about ramping and skip vs full comp.

I told you there is two problems with ramping on that bar and one is directly *related to pluging.

Its a 'snowball effect of sort.
apparently this experiment is open to Skip chain with an 8T.

Why don't you tell us about your experiment then? we are all ears
Ramping problem would be a chain derailment issue. Besides I just trimmed the back of the 24" and it now doesn't chip jam either, so even when you actually tried to address the problem in question, not the one you'd like me to have, it turns out you were wrong. And I have simply no idea what your even saying in the post after this, I've given up on anything you have to say. I'm currently more interested in what Frank has to say at this point.



That's saying something
 
Ramping problem would be a chain derailment issue. Besides I just trimmed the back of the 24" and it now doesn't chip jam either, so even when you actually tried to address the problem in question, not the one you'd like me to have, it turns out you were wrong. And I have simply no idea what your even saying in the post after this, I've given up on anything you have to say. I'm currently more interested in what Frank has to say at this point.



That's saying something
Hot-woods ported 660 with 25” bar ... will pull a 36” thru oak hardwood no problem ! 91cc of STIHL torque/hp .... Frank OUT !!!
 
the 288xp who's bar isn't exactly huge either in the back, but being you mentioned it I'll stack them and see.
"being" I mentioned it..you changed the bar. haha ..what a little B*ch

You are backing a dude on a Echo site that couldn't pick up on the real problem that it was the wrong tail size? enough out of your B*ch mouth already.
You f*en retard that ground a husky large mount bar tail that was in a neutral adjustment position.
I'm shining my falling axe up and I'm going to come flatten your f*en punkin next Halloween ..ok
 
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