Chip jamming
- Thread starter SmellyPirateHooker
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- cs620 larger driver
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SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
What are you even talking about? I cut the 20 Oregon purely because it's a cheap bar. Beings it resolved the issue I went ahead and cut the Tsumura bar. The Tsumura is already matched for the oil port and oils extremely well. It's also running chip free. At least try to keep up.
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
Cut the Tsumura 24" and gave it some runs. No chip issue but unfortunately I can run it. It's got a bad whip to it at the last 6" of the tip. So I have to go back to the 20" Oregon until I can dig up a stiffer 24".
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
Also, please little man. I really feel you have some knowledge and insight you just have an attention span issue or maybe too much beer. I feel you, I like beer also. But now you are stepping into the realm of a keyboard warrior and that's about as low as it gets. I assure you theres nothing bitchy about me. You certainly wouldn't use those words in person. Grow the **** up.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Stiffer than Tsumura?
. They're out there but not by much. The guy at my shop last night dressing my Sugi 24" kept commenting on how hard the steel was. Tsumuras(at least the new ones) are pretty much the same.
NeSurfcaster
ArboristSite Operative
Might be from the bar being cut? less support. My 24" reduced weight tsumura don't wiggle at the tip.
Well I won't call you a liar or 'careless with the truth' but I will at least
call you.. confused!
You must have entertained this on a different
site there guy? Top of page 2, you say you are going to cut the journals for the husky bar on the weekend? first we heard about your latest disaster ^^ maybe you need to cut back on the 'liquid brain' as it apears
as it's a crazy pattern ....over and over.
last night you were about to cry and acusing me of being brand specific. I have yet to talk about a brand on this thread. IDK man..clean up your back yard
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
Nah it's just the tip (no pun intended) and is violent. Those bars are flexy compared to say the original echo or Oregon. It's not the bars fault , I love that bar. I'd probably get away with that kind of chain speed and a full skip, the few times I've ran skip it did seem smoother. It's like I get that vibration you get cutting really hard wood and it instantly turns to side to side whip
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
The being brand specific to a fault comment was a general statement about this forum on average, not exactly directed to you and that's why you weren't directly in it in quote or reply form. As for lies? Or whatever... So when I post a video of this thing pulling a 8 pin what are you going to say? I mean I'm running cuts now so it's coming.
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
It's a Tsumura light, not standard. Im pretty sure most regular bars are stiffer. If not Cannon?Stiffer than Tsumura?
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
I've not owned a Cannon. There's a group buy out there right now, so if you're curious PM me and I can provide info.
My Sugi's are both lightened. I had a Total light that I never ran, my Tsu's are heavies. They all have behaved the same in the cut on my saws.
My Sugi's are both lightened. I had a Total light that I never ran, my Tsu's are heavies. They all have behaved the same in the cut on my saws.
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
Oh and the steel is hard. I had a real gummy swamp maple completely clog one up so fast that I didn't catch the lack of oil till a puff of smoke came from it. The bar had a dark spot but almost no runout or lip. To the extent that it didn't cup cut even before I dressed it. I really like them. But buy design, the light bar is flexy compared to normal I feel.
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
How much time do I have on that order? Im going to try to dig up a standard 24 local and see if it's just that bar being flexy.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
No idea. Not my group buy, I just saw it today organized by @Definitive Dave on another site.
Such an internet cliche.. I have only been on the net for 5 yrs, mostly his site here. I don't usually have bad words to say to people on line.
The best and worst things in life are most spontaneous with me. nothing to do with being a keyboard warrior .
I know you wouldn't sand in front of me talking saws with a condisending attitude your have showed here. heck no. take your own meds.
Show some respect and you may get the same
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
First go around. 20" bar and LGX in stock configuration. Still stock P&C, ported muffler as before. Not much difference between the two on initial test. After checking times in the video went back for a second go around with the 8 pin. Ended up about 2 seconds faster in the cleaner wood, first 8 pin passes had a lot more knots in it. Did my best to keep all cuts the same
First 8 pin cuts
17
15
7 pin cuts
17
17
15
Second round 8 pin
15
13 (popped the bar out a bit on that one so I wouldn't count it)
14
Fairly interesting. I put it into some knotty oak afterwards also, no lack of power in the cut. Even with considering the slightly faster times of the second 8 pin runs it seems more testing is needed with this bar alone.
That'll be short-lived.
WBF is actually pretty knowledgeable. Just have to put on a fresh filter to understand what he's saying sometimes.
I watched some of your vid but didn't see the chain plug up with chips. At least it didn't appear to. Are you saying it's plugging up while bucking? Or noodling? I've noticed the same thing with a sharp chain. It only happens with a long bar buried. I'm guessing it's from having lots of chips that don't get evacuated out the bottom of the clutch cover and actually make it all the way back into the cut. And then they end up occasionally plugging the bar and chain up. Usually it happens on smaller saws with clutch covers not designed to handle that many chips
SmellyPirateHooker
ArboristSite Guru
If you listen in the vid or followed the rest of this train wreck post not your fault, I would read through all of this crap either and my vids are bad) the solution was trimming the back of the bar. Going up a tooth takes up a bit of chain and places the back of the bar too close to the driver preventing chip clearing. That video is with a trimmed 20". The 24" also dispensees chips fine now with the trim job but it whips bad. It's a Tsumura light and just not stiff enough for the setup I guess? Runs fine with the 7t, even trimmed. At any rate, saw really didn't care with the 8pin, I could have leaned into it honestly but was trying to keep an even testing set.
I read through it, but it was yesterday and didn't post then.
Not sure about the whip in the bar. I have a few of these up to 32" and haven't noticed it happening. Maybe there are a couple drivers with burrs on them. Or maybe the rivets in the tip are loose.
I don't doubt your findings with the longer bars on an Echo. Their hp specs are down, but they have a flatter torque curve. And the ones I've run have a decent oiler as well.
I'd take a look at your chain, that saw is far from cutting smooth, its grabby & shuttering. Also muff mods are great & all but a proper tune is needed to make the most of any saw, that echo was 4 stroking through every cut, cut after cut. Before hacking up bars I'd get the basics right first. Normally one would adjust the chain length to better position the tail in relation to the sprocket. Cutting the tail is what you do to run larger pin count sprockets to marry the transition so the chain comes off the sprocket & enters the bar smooth and directly. Gaps, slack & increased transition distance are not what you want. I would'nt be cutting up any more bars until the basics are covered like tune & chain.
