Chipper not throwing chips

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beastmaster

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We have a big woodchuck self feed drum chipper. It hardly throws chips and the chute jams Constantly . Anyone have any idea why. We're running it at 2550 rpm. It's a little dull bit not bad.
 
Sharp knives are important on these chippers. Do you usually have your knives re-sharpened? If so, how many times have they been done? You can only do it so many times as they become too narrow. You may want to look on the side of the drum and see if there are fan paddles to help create enough air to get the chips out. If so, the bushing holding the fan may have gone bad. Check for steel and limbs that might create a bridge in the chute.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400
 
What are you feeding through it? I run a Woodchuck (12" diesel). The things that sometimes clog my outfow are: small, brushy deciduous stuff like maple stems with lots of wet, green leaves, or if the chute is raised to its highest position and gets a slug of green stuff while lugged down.

Maybe check to see that the fan and its airflow are up to snuff? That's what powers the goods on through.
 
More important is the gap between the knives and the anvil, that is the main reason for clogging,
Jeff
I never have a problem with my chuck n duck:p I actually got chuckled thinking about my dumb ass 30 years ago. I would do a 360 slam dunk with brush and yeah sometimes it would slap me for being stupid but **** at least i was cool :havingarest:
 
I never have a problem with my chuck n duck:p I actually got chuckled thinking about my dumb ass 30 years ago. I would do a 360 slam dunk with brush and yeah sometimes it would slap me for being stupid but **** at least i was cool :havingarest:

chuck and duck is way different, it ain't the fan or blower, it is the gap,,it's my job
Jeff :cool:
 
Also, clean it out real good if you're occasionally using it to dispose of bodies... er... or, so I've heard.

:innocent:
 
Dull blades, blades that are smaller than minimum size. gap to bed knife too large, worn bed knife, blade angle incorrect. Most single edge blades should be ground to apx 40 deg angle, double edged blades are apx 30 deg angle . Note on all blades when being resharpend it is neccessary to remove any rolling ( due to wear ) of the back side of the edged area. On units using double edged blades , the width of area ( short side ) between the two ground edges must not be smaller than the width of the mounting area- this will lead to jamming. The blade mount must not overhang the short width of the blade as that creates a pocket that catches chips and deflects them in the wrong direction. If you list the particular model I can check the mfg specs for grind angle. I do not have a list of minimum blades sizes. using blades that are too small width wise in order to be frugal seldom works out in the real world. One more note: blades should be ground as a matched set and in the case of double edged blades should be the same width from the center line of the blade out to each edge. Sharp blades will reduced stress on machine as well as fuel usage. Dull blades will eat you alive do to excessive time spent per job.
Chris - Mr. B's Blades- I grind lot chipper blades all year round. not soliciting anything here.
 
It's a wood chuck 2200 I think. He just had it in the shop, 700.00 later its worse. I'm going to check out our blades based on the info you gave. The gap looks pretty wide to me.
 
I made the gap smaller, about the thickness of a dime. Like Jeff recommend. I spun the drum and the next set of blades hit the bar. So I made them a dime thickness. I fired it up and its throwing chips.
So one set of knifes are either ground down to far or not adjusted right. I have no idea how to remove the blades. But its working now.
The shop that was suppose to fix it and charged 700.00 dollars I doubt even did anything.
The adjustable bar looks like it's worn in the middle. Can i flip it?.
 
I made the gap smaller, about the thickness of a dime. Like Jeff recommend. I spun the drum and the next set of blades hit the bar. So I made them a dime thickness. I fired it up and its throwing chips.
So one set of knifes are either ground down to far or not adjusted right. I have no idea how to remove the blades. But its working now.
The shop that was suppose to fix it and charged 700.00 dollars I doubt even did anything.
The adjustable bar looks like it's worn in the middle. Can i flip it?.

Some anvils are two sided, some are not, I don't know on your model.
 
I made the gap smaller, about the thickness of a dime. Like Jeff recommend. I spun the drum and the next set of blades hit the bar. So I made them a dime thickness. I fired it up and its throwing chips.
So one set of knifes are either ground down to far or not adjusted right. I have no idea how to remove the blades. But its working now.
The shop that was suppose to fix it and charged 700.00 dollars I doubt even did anything.
The adjustable bar looks like it's worn in the middle. Can i flip it?.

yes Wade, it has 4 sides, flip it and tighten it up some but do not torque it,(yet), pull the knives and see if the other side has been used, you can not adjust the knives, only the anvil, so make sure you have a matched set.(When knives are sharpened they loose mass, it is that mass and a tight gap that make performance,) if not, flip them and torque them down and adjust the anvil to the largest knive, like the same gap, a dime.
Jeff :confused:
 
I took it out yesterday to use. It chipped bigger wood good, but it still clogged up on the smaller leafy stuff.
Im thinking it might be the difference between the two sets of blades.
 
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