Chisel grinding and fileing. NOT SQUARE !!

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Bucking for the best grade and price can give a guy A bad headache. This butt log is one of the higher dollar logs I've ever cut.
I fell the tree and limbed it. Then my friend and boss/owner of that sale . Climbed up on it and walked back and forth Several times. Which is a bit of a long and drawn out affair begins 1 leg is fused at the knee and ankle. Finally he had me buck it at around 47' from the butt.
He put it in the deck. Later, when he was hauling to the sorting yard. He massaged a perfect 40'10" log out of it. That 1 log sold for over $7,000.00 . The price he was paid for it delivered to the sorting yard.
I made maybe $20.00 falling ,limbing and bucking it.
It really was about a perfect log.
With the right market, grade bucking can REALLY pay for itself. photobucket-64877-1380569274557.jpg
 
I got lucky and got a batch of Nicholson branded files made in Brazil awhile back that were the best I've ever had. Lasted forever. Would love to get another mess of those.
Ive got some old Nicholson mill bastards that belonged to my stepdad's dad who lived up in yellowknife.
They still cut too.
 
On the subject of sharpening...

Radiac bought out the old Pacific Grinding Wheel building, Picked up one of them white exter fine? wheels for the simington, just as good as the pacific wheels where, No pinks as yet though

They had a grey one that was hard as nails but clogged up extra fast, the white one seems softer, but doesn't clog and can do several chains before loosing the corner. The grinder came with a couple of Simmington branded blue wheels, didn't like em, clogged up and soft...

I remember the Pink Pacific wheels being pretty good for surface grinding, just haven't gotten a chance to use one for grinding chain, for now though I'm digging the white wheel.

Have you ever heard of or come across dressing wax for chisel bit grinders? A fella over in Canada was telling me about how you are only getting the bits half as sharp wothout wax dressing.

I'm not even sure if it is wax. He certainly swore by it.
 
I usually run chisel round ground . Gauges at .030 and am very happy with that . Beech isn’t all that hard ,oak isn’t bad either unless is dry , then it’s like cutting stone . Maple is the same way . Now black walnut that stuff just sucks on every level . Im going to try this chain as it is . Not too worried about ruining it .

Black walnut cuts like warm pumpernickle bread if your corners are right.
 
Have you ever heard of or come across dressing wax for chisel bit grinders? A fella over in Canada was telling me about how you are only getting the bits half as sharp wothout wax dressing.

I'm not even sure if it is wax. He certainly swore by it.

You can use any old cutting wax, available at most hardware stores. Folks use it for cutting wood and stuff on a band saws, or drilling etc, comes in a tube what looks like a grease tube, almost the same consistency, just a hard enough to maintain its shape.

I've used paraffin before but wasn't pleased with the results, that was on the blue ceramic wheel though, think I tried it on the brown wheel too.

The idea is to get some lube going, but all it really seems to do is clog the pores on the wheel faster, creating yet more need to dress the wheel.

I've considered setting up a spray mister, and running water or water soluble oil, exactly like we did in the machine shop, but it would be stupid messy in the forge, where I try to keep things mostly dry... this is a rain forest after all.
 
I really like the idea of a wet setup if it contained everything. I used to grind chains inside my chitty motel rooms but I don't wanna dust up my laundry room. I did a real number on my storage room before my current hiatus... Hiatuses suck.....
 
I really like the idea of a wet setup if it contained everything. I used to grind chains inside my chitty motel rooms but I don't wanna dust up my laundry room. I did a real number on my storage room before my current hiatus... Hiatuses suck.....

A mist setup never really contains everything, especially when elevated like a chain grinder.

But having a concrete floor and tools that don't mind a little damp helps, for now the grinder and all shop service stuff is in the forge, hammers and anvils don't like being wet at all. Dust they are ok with.
 
Black walnut cuts like warm pumpernickle bread if your corners are right.
Beech isn’t hard . But we have the blight happening on them and they rot standing . Seems to eat up a chain fast . And yes dead dry oak is like stone . Used to joke about needing a demo saw with a metal disk to cut it
 
Plenty of guys used to buy pre waxed stones. And I've cut with quite a few guys that kept a stick of wax on their grinder when they hadn't got a pre waxed stone. One guy I cut with used Tri Flow . he would dress the stone then would give the cutting edge a couple spritz s before he started grinding his chain. Since I was using his grinder a Pro Sharp. He wanted me to use the spray also. So I did. It worked fine. I could never get fully used to dressing pre waxed stones. Would always get a big snolly bomb of wax build up on the trailing edge of the diamond.
 
Would always get a big snolly bomb of wax build up on the trailing edge of the diamond.

Makes sense. I've tried a candle and WD but didn't venture much past that as far as wheel lubricants go. Neither seemed to make enough difference to justify the extra effort, or the loss of visibility in the corner.
 
I remember they marketed wax sticks called Cool Grind.
Seeing the corner was a problem I had with waxed stones also.
Maybe some people wash their chains in a solvent tank before grinding. I never had the time or energy. Neither did any of the guys I cut timber with. I often thot that having a 510 to grind the rock out of cutters that had been hit bad would work well. They always seem to hide a bunch of crap in them that would dirty up the cutting edge of the stone.
One thing I always liked about the Simington 451A. With its small motor it didn't have the power to blast out a tooth. Thy kept the tooth and the stone/wheel cooler. So the wheel took longer to accumulate the baked in crap that made it hard to see the corner. And reduced it cutting effectiveness.
 
I remember they marketed wax sticks called Cool Grind.
Seeing the corner was a problem I had with waxed stones also.
Maybe some people wash their chains in a solvent tank before grinding. I never had the time or energy. Neither did any of the guys I cut timber with. I often thot that having a 510 to grind the rock out of cutters that had been hit bad would work well. They always seem to hide a bunch of crap in them that would dirty up the cutting edge of the stone.
One thing I always liked about the Simington 451A. With its small motor it didn't have the power to blast out a tooth. Thy kept the tooth and the stone/wheel cooler. So the wheel took longer to accumulate the baked in crap that made it hard to see the corner. And reduced it cutting effectiveness.

I gots a 12v version of the 451, works pretty good, though i wish it had a touch more power.
 
I'm aware.

Just that one looks identical to my 451 minus the motor

Same castings, same chain guide, same stops, springs, same dressers. unless Simmington or silvey got sued over it, its pretty uncanny.

That and I though the Razur sharp wasn't a swing arm model?
 
I'm aware.

Just that one looks identical to my 451 minus the motor

Same castings, same chain guide, same stops, springs, same dressers. unless Simmington or silvey got sued over it, its pretty uncanny.

That and I though the Razur sharp wasn't a swing arm model?
With Silvey all the motors were interchangeable they both looked a lot like, I'm not sure who produced one first my money would be on Silvey though Jack was a great guy to meet in person when he fixed my pro sharp for free. Only real reason Simington has had a come back is they're the only game in town for a few years they didn't make a grinder at all.

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Here's what a new swingarm looked like in the later years, from memory it was the SDM that came out first then the swingarm, then Razor 1&2, then last was the pro sharp. Colors could be a few different depending on generation as well, all motors interchange minus some of the first grinders.
17a9a201fbf45dc84cfce5bbf5933cb3.jpg


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