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Clutch issues milling? Take a look at mine

Discussion in 'Milling & Saw Mills' started by Brent Nowell, Apr 14, 2019.

  1. Brent Nowell

    Brent Nowell ArboristSite Operative

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    Got the black rubber gloves on and did a semi physical on the saws and found this on the clutch drum for the 395xp.
    E5E0F1E8-EC8B-4A8B-92A9-8A49C521C317.jpeg
    The clutch pack looked good, no bluing at all there, but the drum as you can see is quite scorched. This saw is used with the 36” Alaskan mill .
    The 372 I use with an internal clutch drum looked great, this saw is used with the Alaskan edger in a veritical position.
    Both chains are sharp, I know this because I was getting zero stretch out of the two after the day was over last Sunday. Also I sharpened them before they were brought out.

    The only thing I can think of is that I did not and have not used wedges with the 395xp and the 36” Alaskan mill. Could the wood be pinching slightly on the blade, causing the saw to work harder? I always thought the wedges were used for better wood face appearance.
    I would appreciate what you guys would think.
     
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  2. BobL

    BobL No longer addicted to AS

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    That clutch looks pretty close to normal to me - are you running WOT/
     
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  3. Brent Nowell

    Brent Nowell ArboristSite Operative

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    Yes I am. Curious as to your question? What affects would be seen if otherwise?
     
  4. BobL

    BobL No longer addicted to AS

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    Folks that don't run WOT are likely to have more clutch slippage and that might lead to overheating the clutch.
     
  5. rarefish383

    rarefish383 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I mill with a 660 or an old Homelite Super 1050. I tend to run my chains a little on the loose side. But, that's relative, what I call loose, someone else may call tight. I like to be able to take 2 fingers and pick up on the chain and pull the tip of the driver up to the top of the rail. It will fall back down, not snap down. I like to be able to pull the chain around on the bar with 2 fingers also. I know guys that brag how the go through 2-3 bars a year cutting firewood. I have 40 year old bars that look like new as far as rails go. My point is running the chain too tight can burn up bars and clutches also.
     
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  6. grizz55chev

    grizz55chev Tree Freak

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    Your way of tightening the chain is just the way I’ve always done it. Never have worn out a bar, most still have the original paint. If you can’t rotate the chain with 2 fingers, there’s a problem.
     
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  7. Brent Nowell

    Brent Nowell ArboristSite Operative

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    Well thx guys for the input. I always tighten my chain just to take up slack and nothing more. Never had a problem pushing it even with one finger :)
    I’ll just keep on truckin
     

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