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Clutch springs for ported weedeater.

Doskiez

Doskiez

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Mar 8, 2018
Messages
16
Age
33
Location
USA
I am curious if some of the saw builders/ 2 stroke porting experts on here might be able to lend a bit of advice before I start buying a lot of parts to try. I have an echo SRM 210 and 230 which I have been experimenting with. I havent really changed the port timing just a little exhaust widening, muffler opening, thinner base gasket with full transfer port openings rather than the 3 small holes drilled in the factory one, and a SRM 260 carb. After the initial adjustments with the stock carb the acceleration was still sluggish and seemed like it was still starving for air. Bigger carb runs amazingly well at speed love the way it cuts now, the only issue is I cant get the idle stable without the head spinning but it seems to be very close.
My thinking is
1. Look for slightly stronger clutch springs to get engagement RPM's higher (part numbers on the slim chance someone may have encountered this before)
2. Some modification to the carb idle circuit to give finer control over the fuel amount.
3. Just run it the way it is now because its just a weedeater, I am the only one that uses it, and I would much rather have it perform well while cutting than idle stably.
I know its not a chainsaw so if this is not allowed I apologize but the motors and clutches work the same way and I have not been able to find a weedeater performance forum to ask
 
buzz sawyer

buzz sawyer

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
5,654
Location
Western border of mid-southern northern WV
buzz sawyer

buzz sawyer

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
5,654
Location
Western border of mid-southern northern WV
I am curious if some of the saw builders/ 2 stroke porting experts on here might be able to lend a bit of advice before I start buying a lot of parts to try. I have an echo SRM 210 and 230 which I have been experimenting with. I havent really changed the port timing just a little exhaust widening, muffler opening, thinner base gasket with full transfer port openings rather than the 3 small holes drilled in the factory one, and a SRM 260 carb. After the initial adjustments with the stock carb the acceleration was still sluggish and seemed like it was still starving for air. Bigger carb runs amazingly well at speed love the way it cuts now, the only issue is I cant get the idle stable without the head spinning but it seems to be very close.
My thinking is
1. Look for slightly stronger clutch springs to get engagement RPM's higher (part numbers on the slim chance someone may have encountered this before)
2. Some modification to the carb idle circuit to give finer control over the fuel amount.
3. Just run it the way it is now because its just a weedeater, I am the only one that uses it, and I would much rather have it perform well while cutting than idle stably.
I know its not a chainsaw so if this is not allowed I apologize but the motors and clutches work the same way and I have not been able to find a weedeater performance forum to ask
I just ran into a similar problem on a replacement carb for a Craftsman saw. I had to change back to the original throttle plate because the idle air passage was too large and I couldn't get the speed low enough. The original plate had a smaller opening - less air bypass - which allowed me to control it with the idle speed screw.
 
Doskiez

Doskiez

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Mar 8, 2018
Messages
16
Age
33
Location
USA
I just ran into a similar problem on a replacement carb for a Craftsman saw. I had to change back to the original throttle plate because the idle air passage was too large and I couldn't get the speed low enough. The original plate had a smaller opening - less air bypass - which allowed me to control it with the idle speed screw.
Thanks for the suggestion, I will look into the Walbro modification if something like that will work for this application or for future builds. My carbs have a barrel type throttle rather than a butterfly but this got me thinking if my issue is not having fine enough control over airflow at idle I might be able to cut a small notch in the edge of the barrel, something like a finger port, that would allow me to almost close or fully close the throttle except for that port and use the throttle stop to adjust that opening. It would have no effect on higher RPM operation or WOT. Thanks for the inspiration!
 
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