Clutch Toast?

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dseebauer

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Hi all. Just joined group and totally a novice. So wondering if my issue is my clutch. I started my saw this afternoon to warm, but dog was bugging me to take him for pee so I was gone for about 7-8 min while it idled but I had not kicked the throttle down so it was on hi idle. I came back to saw and it was pouring smoke out of clutch/brake housing. Since then it won’t stay running, chain runs on idle, and seems to catch and stall when pulling trigger. At one point a clutch spring fell off but I was able to put it back. Chain runs free and brake still seems to work. Is it the clutch or something else? The saw has been finicky lately. Gets hot and doesn’t like to restart. Maybe a carb issue? Husqvarna 435eII (16” bar). Thanks to anyone that can help!
 
Yep..burned up crank seal and smoked the clutch as well.

Never have understood why people use high idle after the saw has started, I see a dozen saws a year melted down from this same scenario.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
Yep..burned up crank seal and smoked the clutch as well.

Never have understood why people use high idle after the saw has started, I see a dozen saws a year melted down from this same scenario.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
I've never understood why people start their saws with the brake on...
 
I've never understood why people start their saws with the brake on...
If a saw has a brake, ill use it on cold start. But the high idle comes off as soon as it catches..then the brake comes off so i can rev it to clear any puddled fuel/oil.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
Another clutch question. Husqvarna On my 2 359 saws, as soon as you let off the throttle the chain stops almost instantly. What I would call too quick as though the clutch is too tight. I am more used to it spinning free for a couple seconds or less like my 254xp does. And maybe the 254 spins a little long if anything, so I turned oil pump to low position but it still spins free for about 2 seconds after throttle is released. But the 359 instantly stopping makes me think I have a clutch that is overworking or just too tight. Any adjusting? I messed with oil pump and turned it up to full oil but to see if more oil on the bar would help the chain spin for a second but still same result so that is why I believe it is in the clutch. And the clutch cover is on the warm side. IMO I will check the tube for any videos on husqvarna clutch issues or adjusting as well. Thanks for any input.
 
Another clutch question. Husqvarna On my 2 359 saws, as soon as you let off the throttle the chain stops almost instantly. What I would call too quick as though the clutch is too tight. I am more used to it spinning free for a couple seconds or less like my 254xp does. And maybe the 254 spins a little long if anything, so I turned oil pump to low position but it still spins free for about 2 seconds after throttle is released. But the 359 instantly stopping makes me think I have a clutch that is overworking or just too tight. Any adjusting? I messed with oil pump and turned it up to full oil but to see if more oil on the bar would help the chain spin for a second but still same result so that is why I believe it is in the clutch. And the clutch cover is on the warm side. IMO I will check the tube for any videos on husqvarna clutch issues or adjusting as well. Thanks for any input.

I think your 359 is fine. The 254 might want new springs on its clutch. Oil output is not relevant here. There are no adjustments for the clutch itself, just the option for spring replacement.
 
Another clutch question. Husqvarna On my 2 359 saws, as soon as you let off the throttle the chain stops almost instantly. What I would call too quick as though the clutch is too tight. I am more used to it spinning free for a couple seconds or less like my 254xp does. And maybe the 254 spins a little long if anything, so I turned oil pump to low position but it still spins free for about 2 seconds after throttle is released. But the 359 instantly stopping makes me think I have a clutch that is overworking or just too tight. Any adjusting? I messed with oil pump and turned it up to full oil but to see if more oil on the bar would help the chain spin for a second but still same result so that is why I believe it is in the clutch. And the clutch cover is on the warm side. IMO I will check the tube for any videos on husqvarna clutch issues or adjusting as well. Thanks for any input.
Likely the sprocket bearing is seized. Take off the bar/chain/etc., and see how the drum turns by hand, it should turn freely without turning the engine.
 
Likely the sprocket bearing is seized. Take off the bar/chain/etc., and see how the drum turns by hand, it should turn freely without turning the engine.
Maybe the chain is too tight? Or maybe a tight guide or a thicker chain? And if someone does not use it for a long time or store it in a not too dry place, it even grabs rust


^^^^^ Those and/or the clutch and bar groove is full of gunk/crud. Take it apart for a good cleaning and inspection.
 
I guess I'm missing something.

How would running the saw on high idle burn it up if the chain brake was off? I would assume it would just run with the chain spinning. The brake would have to be engaged to generate enough heat to smoke the seal and clutch, yes?
 
I guess I'm missing something.

How would running the saw on high idle burn it up if the chain brake was off? I would assume it would just run with the chain spinning. The brake would have to be engaged to generate enough heat to smoke the seal and clutch, yes?
That's what was implied from the original post. I don't think even a newbie would leave a saw, at high idle with the chain spinning, for 8 minutes
 
That dog would have to be doing some serious damage or attacking my kid for me to stop what Im doing for him or her. So was the chain brake on as in engaged while engine was running on fast idle? If so yes heat likely caused clutch/bearing/crank seal/crank bearing issues. Hell those saws are even known for the bottom 4 bolts that hold the crankcase/riser/cylinder all together. I would get the clutch all apart and look to see how far the heat looks like it made it into the saw. If it looks like the heat isnt into the saw past the oil pump drive gear then it might not have damaged the seal and or bearing.
 
So is the 435 a plastic case consumer saw? If so it is probably trash.

One mans consumer saw is another mans pro limber. :)
But it is certainly no 572.

Any saw sitting on high idle for 7-8 minutes with the chain brake on is likely to be an uneconomic repair- photos would help decide- but I'm figuring it would be easier written off as a learning experience.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I had pulled it apart and expected to see a lot of baked oil and have the clutch drum bearing seized but it looks pretty good. Drum spins freely and easily. I still have to pull the clutch off still and look at the seal but not sure what I would be looking at. As for leaving the saw on. Brake was definitely not engaged. I generally can’t get it started with the brake on and I usually have to let it idle high for a few minutes just to keep it from stalling out when trying to drop the idle first time after starting. Anyway, would seal damage be visible or detectable without pulling it all apart? Does seal replacement on this saw require one to pull the crankcase completely apart?
 
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