JJuday
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry to resurrect this thread but if anyone can lend a helping brain, I have a few questions. My father passed and out of the basement garage came a lovely find in a yep, you guessed it, an 041AV(All it has is "STIHL 041 AV" on the top plate, so is this a points setup?).
It runs strong, or seems to, however at idle the chain continuously moves. I checked the clutch assembly out and all seems well with it...everything seems to be in place at least. Should I try and idle it down(it seems close for a 2 stroke but then again I don't have a tach) or should I be more concerned with the clutch?
I am also trying to figure out the oiling system. I have adjusted the oiler control knob both ways and it hasn't seemed to have made a difference. I haven't been able to get it to sling a stream at all. Should I be worried about the oiler as I haven't found any leaks thus far. Looking from the top, which way is the knob to be turned to increase/decrease oil displacement? I am under the assumption that it locks out also, or will it come out if turned to far in one direction?
Any help would be appreciated. I have already submitted a request for a paper manual with Stihl, but if anyone has an electronic version that they would be willing to send over that would be great(I will submit a request in the manual request thread also if I don't get a reply here).
Note: OP, thanks for the due diligence in updating the build with pictures.
Yes, it will be the points set up. That is not a bad thing though. As for the clutch question, try to idle it down till the chain dosen't move. The oiler....do not turn oil adjust knob to full + because it will damage the oiler adjust pin. I know from experience. If you take off the top cover and turn the oil adjust knob ccw till you can get it out look at the pin. Does it have a ball on the bottom? If it does good. If not it's broken and the knob is still in the case. I got mine out with a series of left hand drill bits and a grab-bit. If this happend to you saw also check the plunger portion at the front, just above the chain tensioner. If it leaks check the face for cracks. This will be a result of the plunger moving too far forward in the cylinder. A snap ring holds the oiler in, take it out and remove one of the screws from you muffler cover, 4-15mm if I remember right, anyway one muffler cover screw is what you need to thread into the female threaded face of the oiler. Pull it out and you will be able to see up into the piston recess, this will help if you need light if you are looking from above. Now the oiler it's self....while you are in there you might as well replace the seals on the piston it's self, they are just a few bucks and you might as well get a new assembly boot too. These parts are getting to the point of being NLA at the dealers so get them while you can. Back to the oiler, if it has cracked at the front like mine did you will have to JB weld it or apoxy, anything to seal the leak. I had the same problem with mine, I adjusted the oiler and BAM no oil. The ball that I am talking about on the oil controll pin is what engages the piston further into the cylinder, less engagement=less oil, more engagement=more oil becasue you are changing the lenght of the piston stroke. Too much and it can bottom on the end of the cylinder and damage it and results in snapping the controll pin.
Sorry for hitting you with all of that at once. I've been there and done that with that same saw so if you have more questions you can either post back or P.M. me and I'll try to help the best I can. I have the maint. manual and IPL and owners book, get ahold of me and I can get you hooked up eith all of that too. JJuday
So I took it back to the shop and removed b&c and unstuck chain from bar chain groove, with the help of vise-grips!!! That is when I noticed oil all over my bench and all over the front of the saw. There is a small aluminum cap in the front center of the face of that oiler if you look at it from the front. Mine had a crack in it and that is where all the oil had escaped from. Not only that but the engagement/adjustment pin had broke off just about flush with that ball end down in the slot that it sits in. I read in the manual only after trying to get an idea of what was wrong and it said "Do not engage oiler to full or damage to oiler will occur" :jawdrop: So I didn't read that far into the manual.....maybe like I should have. The ball end increases the forward stroke of the oiler piston and apparently it will run into the backside of the cylinder, where the oil passage through the cylinder is. If you look into the front of the cyinder using the passage holes you'll see the back side of that little aluminum cap. Apparently mine set far enough back that when the piston came full stroke it smacked the cap cracking it and had enough preasure to snap that adjustment knob shaft above the ball end. For those of you who aren't familiar with that set up the bottom of the ball end is threaded and threads into the housing. When it breaks it's no fun to get out. With the piston all the way forward it apparently cannot pull as much because the piston it's self might be partially blocking the oil passage which may explain why some set at 100% seem to put out less oil. Not sure, I'm just glad I got it fixed! Oh, BTW new oilers are almost 90$ and still can be bought at the dealerships. No, I wasn't going to pay that for one! This is what happened to mine, will it happen to all of them? Maybe, maybe not, but after I read the "do not" in the manual I couldn't understand why they would make the oiler that way. I guess I hit the red self destruct button!! JJuday.
. I also tried to turn the knob ccw until it backed out but it stopped after about 5-6 rounds, so is there any way that I will damage anything by torquing this sucker to unscrew it?
