Compression loss over time...

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I dug thru the chainsaw stuff and found the carb rebuild kit. From FarmerTek(?) and it was easy enough. Started right up and idle, rev'd, and sounded fine at full throttle. I don't and won't know if this fixed anything, cause I mixed up some new gas with Stihl Synthetic earlier in the morning.

It was a bit messy, but otherwise looked fine. Total cost was $6, I had bought this over a year ago for the bogging problem. Maybe it will fix the starting problem.
 

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looks like a bunch of wood chips made it into the carb, no bueno. Keep that air filter clean and tight, and make sure there's no air leaks
 
That carb has had problems. There is a screen on the fuel inlet side of the inlet valve that should have prevented any coarse chips from getting into the fuel cavity of the fuel pump section (the one with the tan/amber diaphragm). Make sure the screen isn't missing. The other diaphragm has been assembled wrong, the gasket should be between the diaphragm and the carb body (on the wet side of the diaphragm). Air filter has nothing to do with it, the back side of this diaphragm (the dry side) has to be vented to atmosphere and it is normal to get a bit of debris on that side of the diaphragm.
 
Nine more years. :rock:

In truth, I was kinda hoping to find an excuse to buy a new saw (CAD?). Then again, I need to buy a lot of things before this, and now I can get my priorities right aligned.
 
Yeah no china carb kits, dont ask how I know... shouldn't set you back more then $20.00 tops for an OEM zama or walbro kit. And dont forget to check metering lever height.

I looked at the diaphragm actuated lever and saw that they had different bends, so opted to keep the original in place. Good that you mentioned it, else I might have gone ahead and use the new one.
 
I looked at the diaphragm actuated lever and saw that they had different bends, so opted to keep the original in place. Good that you mentioned it, else I might have gone ahead and use the new one.
This is EXACTLY where the newbies screw up. The original metering lever has been factory set and doesn't wear appreciably. The one in the kit has NEVER been set so MUST be if you are going to use it. I usually reuse the old one AND check it before closing everything up. Never know somebody else may have been in there.
 
Glad you got good results.

Thanks for posting this by the way. My Stihl 362 is 9 years old also and you got me motivated to overhaul the carb and replace fuel line / impulse hose. Noticed it is getting a little sluggish on getting to WOT. Last night removed the muffler and the piston looks as new! Great.
 
This is EXACTLY where the newbies screw up. The original metering lever has been factory set and doesn't wear appreciably. The one in the kit has NEVER been set so MUST be if you are going to use it. I usually reuse the old one AND check it before closing everything up. Never know somebody else may have been in there.

I agree. The Walbro "W" tool and the Zama "Z" tool are well worth the money. It is exceedingly easy to set the lever height wrong. Those height tools take all the guesswork out of it.
 
Been a few weeks now and the carb rebuild has proven itself a huge success. This morning 3 pulls and it was ready to cut. I did go back into the carb and put back the old inlet needle. The new one didn't mate up with the carb body right (idle seemed a bit off).
 
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