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Could use some suggestions.

Discussion in 'Off the Topic Forum' started by 1Alpha1, Nov 1, 2019.

  1. 1Alpha1

    1Alpha1 100% USDA certified abnormality-free.

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    Depends on who's looking for me.....and why.
    We recently purchased a house and are in the process of moving into it. The house we bought has a very nice lower level storage room and is below ground level. It's quite large and has no windows. It houses two water heaters, a furnace, and a central whole house vacuum system.

    It has two interior doors to it. They are not solid core doors. I'd like to make the room as secure as possible. Maybe buy two solid wood doors, or put some steel plate on the existing doors? Or.....maybe some heavy gauge sheet metal?

    Anyone on here have any experience fortifying interior doors? Anyone have any suggestions, tips, and/or advice?

    I'd like to do this sooner than later. But.....I'm not in a real big rush. Just wanna get it done before the year is up if possible.
     
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  2. SuperDuty04

    SuperDuty04 ArboristSite Operative

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    The simplest way is just to buy two solid would doors to size and hang them. Maybe an hours work including putting on the new/existing hardware.
     
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  3. grizz55chev

    grizz55chev Tree Freak

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    I’d seek out a contractor and tell him your needs, if you want it done right. When you say secure, there’s a lot of info left out that you may not want shared on an open forum. JMhO.
     
  4. Justsaws

    Justsaws Addicted to ArboristSite

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    It is very difficult to secure a typical modern interior off the shelf door, almost impossible to secure a hollow core. The door is only as secure as the material the hinges and lock are attached to. This includes the door frame and wall opening.

    Soft woods are for privacy, not security. Think of most doors as rigid curtains instead of barriers of force.

    Solid hardwood door in a metal reinforced frame, is the beginning of secured.
     
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  5. Husky Man

    Husky Man Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You also need to define what you consider "Secure", how determined of a person do you want to deter?,

    The more determined someone is, the more "Secure" of a door you will need.


    Doug :cheers:
     
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  6. SuperDuty04

    SuperDuty04 ArboristSite Operative

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    Ummm yeah, I guess it depends how secure you’re talking. I was thinking, secure enough to give yourself time to grab a gun and shoot. Obviously if you’re talking extremely secure, you’ll need steel. But then, unless it’s a block home, a sledge hammer can get you through a wall in a matter of seconds. I’ve seen this done in a robbery before to defeat an alarm system, went through the wall to avoid setting off the perimeter sensors. Anything is only as strong as it’s weakest part.
     
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  7. WRW

    WRW Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Doing anything with the walls? Sheetrock can be breached using hands and feet. If you fortify the wall/walls, the fortification should run up between the joists. It wouldn't hurt to reinforce the door frames and get extended screws for the strike plate...weren't you a cop?
     
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  8. 1Alpha1

    1Alpha1 100% USDA certified abnormality-free.

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    Depends on who's looking for me.....and why.

    I was, but I'm not a contractor. I was looking for some ideas before I decide to act on my own. I only need one door access to the room. The other door could be walled off entirely.

    Longer screws in the door hinges and lock striker plate would be a good place to start. Most are only about 1/2" from what I have researched. 3" seems to be the desired length.

    By eliminating one door, I could justify spending some money on the remaining door. Anyways, I was just kind of thinking out loud and hoping that some others who might do the same. ;)
     
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  9. full chizel

    full chizel ArboristSite Guru

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    Wouldn’t an ex-cop know what it takes to secure a door?:rolleyes:
     
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  10. 1Alpha1

    1Alpha1 100% USDA certified abnormality-free.

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    Depends on who's looking for me.....and why.

    I was simply looking for some ideas or suggestions. Funny thing, of all the training I've had over the course of three decades, not one class was on how to increase the security of, or fortify a door. Or, how to install a lock, or how to strengthen a door frame.

    But hey, thanks for your help anyways. :rolleyes:
     
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  11. full chizel

    full chizel ArboristSite Guru

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    But wouldn’t a cop know what has stopped a b&e and what hasn’t
     
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  12. grizz55chev

    grizz55chev Tree Freak

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    Only you know what your needs are, we don’t have enough info on what security you are seeking. The door, itself, will not stop an intruder that’s determined to get in. The walls and the door frame itself will also need to be fortified for complete security. At the risk of repeating myself, I would seek out a competent and licensed contractor to do the job right.:cool:
     
  13. 1Alpha1

    1Alpha1 100% USDA certified abnormality-free.

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    Depends on who's looking for me.....and why.

    B&E's are as varied as the individuals that commit them. Some massively fortified buildings have been the victim of them. Just goes to show that if an individual wants in bad enough, there's not much that will stop them, short of being shot on the spot.

    Like I said, I was just looking for some ideas, to see if they pretty much fell inline with what I was thinking. From what I've read, they are.
     
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  14. Colt Marlington

    Colt Marlington ArboristSite Guru

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    Probably a steel door, with steel door frame, that opened to the outside.
     
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  15. 1Alpha1

    1Alpha1 100% USDA certified abnormality-free.

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  16. SuperDuty04

    SuperDuty04 ArboristSite Operative

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    I think you just answered your own question. From the get go, I thought this was an unrealistic goal, short of building a bunker.

    edit:

    If your home, you just need enough security to hear them entering your home so you have enough time to respond. if you’re not home, your best defense is a good alarm system. Which is what I do for a living, commercial alarm/surveillance systems.
     
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  17. 1Alpha1

    1Alpha1 100% USDA certified abnormality-free.

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    Depends on who's looking for me.....and why.
    I (we) have never been the victim of a break-in or any crime for that matter. Now that we are going to be in a much larger home, I wanted a dedicated room that could be secured. The room in question itself is pretty close to being perfect in that respect. I just wanted to make it a tad bit more perfect, w/o spending thousands of $$'s or extensive modification.

    The house we are moving into, is in a very good neighborhood. It's at the very end of a short cul-de-sac and that is off of a short dead end street. Strategically speaking, it's well located. It's also on the side of a steep hill. Access to the rear of the house would be very challenging indeed.

    All things considered, I shouldn't need to worry much. I have some things in mind basically reinforcing the two existing doors. A couple hundred dollars at most. I'm probably over thinking all of this. But I'm retired, so I have the time to do so. ;)
     
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  18. unclemoustache

    unclemoustache My 'stache is bigger than yours.

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    If it opens to the outside, the hinges are accessible to the outside. That would make it harder to kick in, but why kick it in if you only need remove the hinge pins? Of course, you can weld the hinge pins in place, but it's something to keep in mind.
     
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  19. Husky Man

    Husky Man Addicted to ArboristSite

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    No need to weld the hinge pins, order a door with security hinges, the pins can't be removed without opening the door. I ordered one for a shop I had built at a former house, a Steel door, in a steel frame that opens out is practically impossible to "Kick In" maybe with a Battering ram, my Neighbors would have noticed THAT;), not happening with just a foot:D


    Doug :cheers:
     
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  20. Bobby Kirbos

    Bobby Kirbos Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs

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    Hinge pins being accessible on the outside of the door isn't a problem. They make security hinges for this exact reason. There are a couple different flavors available.

    They also make bullet proof wall board. It comes in 4x8 sheets, thickness varies based upon ballistic requirements.

    For a "safe room", I would go with a solid door, security hinges, and an AR-15 with a 100 round drum inside. Step 1, keep the threat out of the space. If step 1 fails, make the threat not a threat.
     
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