Cutting to right side

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Being most people are right-handed or left-handed one side of the chain is easier to file than the other,so what happens both sides of the chain are not filed exactly the same,so one side pulls harder and wears it's bar rail out faster on that side,eventually making the saw cut crooked and bind. Just regrind the bar rails true again,and examine your old chain to see where you can file a little better to keep both sides the same.
 
Trapper - I swung by my local shop and he showed me exactly what you are explaining. The bar was worn from the dull chain. And the cutters were uneven lengths. He tried the bar and sharpened the chain.

He also confirmed that my old sprocket was still good and didn’t need to be replaced.

I returned the bar and chain at the place
I bought it with no hassle.

The guy also confirmed the tightness I should have my chain, reminded me to not use a full gallon of gas when mixing oil, and always use the highest octane gas I could get.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Trapper - I swung by my local shop and he showed me exactly what you are explaining. The bar was worn from the dull chain. And the cutters were uneven lengths. He tried the bar and sharpened the chain.

He also confirmed that my old sprocket was still good and didn’t need to be replaced.

I returned the bar and chain at the place
I bought it with no hassle.

The guy also confirmed the tightness I should have my chain, reminded me to not use a full gallon of gas when mixing oil, and always use the highest octane gas I could get.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well you didn't do anything wrong,now you know about filing and you're human,just grind the bar periodically. Find my thread here on bar grinding,you can do it at home for $10.
 
Could also be bar+chain - drive links too much play in groove, uneven rail height, chain sharpening angle left/right uneven, cutter length left/right different, etc. etc.
Often very difficult to rectify without trying out replacements...
2 out of 10 times the groove is worn. 6 out 10 times flares on edge of bar hanging up in cut. 2 out of 10 dull chain , improper rakers. Flares on the edge of the bar seem to be overlooked as they become as wide as the cutting kerf. What I describe is what happens to me.
 
It did seem like the saw was getting hung up during the cut and not dropping through the log. Sounds like that must have been some flare on the bar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would suggest putting on a new chain, if the problem persists its most likely your bar. I run a 372 with a 32 inch bar, full comp chisel most every working day.Oregon and Husky bars. Do not know if the steel has gone soft, or its the way I file, or constant pressure on one side but my bar rails wear down on one side until they are worthless. I put a grinder wheel on the table saw, true them up on the side of the wheel and they work fine. Rail spread is also an issue and can be determined by how much side wiggle is in the chain just back from the tip.
 
If you want a bar made of the best high quality hard steel buy a Tsumura,these bars are far better quality steel,just not as cheap. But if you grind your bar periodically it will last a long time,rather than letting the rails get horribly worn.
 
A normal user or professional should grind their bar periodically,it will cut straight and you will actually get much more life out of the bar,than just leaving it until the rails and groove are worn so bad it only cuts a short way and binds to one side. You can grind your bar at home for next to nothing($10 wheel) so if you are a user,keep it cuttin' straight and dont buy new bars.
 
Working in a saw shop I ground every customer saw bar coming in for a tune-up or repair. They were all usually badly worn,I felt good knowing I'd helped them and saved them money.
I guess some saw shops just put new bars on $$$ when they are worn. Easy,sleazy...
 

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