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Dead 357XP, where to start?

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by landfakers, Nov 20, 2018.

  1. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    Coworker surprised me this morning and gave me a 357xp for free that he had gotten from a neighbor. He had no use for it so I was happy to take it from him. It is in pretty good shape, but hasnt been run in 5+ years from the sounds of it. It is a 2004 model, with the 199A carb. I started by popping off the carb just to get a look at the piston and it looks good from what I can see. Tried to run a compression test and only came out with 40psi, but im thinking this has to do with the dumb auto decomp? I pulled it off and dont have much of an idea of what im looking at or how to possibly test it. Also found this(1st picture) lodged in the rubber line:nofunny: No idea what that is.

    I've already decided that I will be installing a manual decomp valve, and read that the Walboro 199A carbs are somewhat troublesome, so looking into a zama carb, but should I pull the cylinder and have a look before I go and order those things? Im guessing the answer is yes. I am pretty good mechanically and taking the carb out was easy, just want to get some opinions on going about this the right way

    Thanks guys
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  2. captain dangers

    captain dangers partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw

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    your doing the right thing putting a manual de-comp in, don't forget to blank off the pipe ;o) regarding the carb? take the top cover off and drill a small hole in the top cover and that should solve your carb issues? CD
     
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  3. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    Nice saw. First, pop off the muffler and look at the piston from that side. Delete the auto decomp and rebuild the 199. If it has a plastic intake clamp replace that with a metal one. Lots of info available here about all of that. Just do a search.

    Good luck and welcome.
     
  4. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    Theres a little more to it than that.
     
  5. Chainsaw Jim

    Chainsaw Jim CJ Saws, LLC

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    Yes, definitely install a regular decompression button.
    Pull that auto decomp barb from the cylinder and use a shortened screw to plug the hole with either permanent loctite or jb weld.
    The only thing troublesome about the 199a is the mistake with the metering diaphragm and gasket in the replacement kits. They model them after the early carbs that don't have the compensating vent to the filter. This also goes for the HDA-175.
    Here's a pic of where the hole needs punched...
    20181114_162049.jpg 20181114_200039.jpg
    The ring imprint was left by the black spacer plate in the next picture.

    20181120_135101.jpg
    If the carb is missing the black plate then a vent hole must be present somewhere on the metal top plate.
     
  6. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    Plus a tan or black pump diaphragm for a steady idle. The impulse signal is a little weak on those saws.
     
  7. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    Well I found out why his neighbor stopped running it....
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  8. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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  9. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thats great info! I'll likely just order a rebuild kit for the carb then along with the needed cylinder and piston
     
  10. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    Do I want the K24 or the K22 for the rebuild kit?
     
  11. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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  12. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thank you very much!
     
  13. cuinrearview

    cuinrearview Red saw lover

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    Nope. I was wrong. It's 24 that I order. I'm sorry
     
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  14. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    All good, have not ordered yet anyhow
     
  15. Chainsaw Jim

    Chainsaw Jim CJ Saws, LLC

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  16. smokey7

    smokey7 jack of a lot ace of a few

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    Try cleaning up that jug with sandpaper first before replacing it. In my experience the 357 359 and alot of the newer stuff dont take to clea up as well as the old saws. Maybe the plating is thinner. But it would be nice to just need a 30 doller piston instead of a 100 doller topend kit.
     
  17. j8j

    j8j New Member

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    I have 357XP and have rebuilt it twice. Good advice on drilling the carb for a vent hole and rebuilding the 199A isn't that hard. Watch out on the kits as sometimes the holes are not correct on the various gaskets. Compare carefully to the removed parts and you may have to drill out some vent passage holes on some gaskets to make them match the replacements. I put a 1/8" hole in the center of the silver cover plate as per many recommendations and youtube vids on the subject of the 199A fixes. That fixed my starting problem. Do delete the auto decomp, it was a hot mess and Husky doesn't sell the autodecomp cylinder as a replacement AFAIK. I cleaned up my cylinder with muriatic acid, many careful applications and timed swabbing with cotton and finally found that paper towels damp and let sit on the area with the smudges worked best. On the next rebuild I chose to replace with OEM piston and cylinder with manual decomp. HL supply has a good deal at 122 bucks for the OEM manual decomp piston and cylinder kit. I've heard there are other options but the first china piston/cylinder I used was very low power and the porting looked lousy. The OEM husky parts brought it back to 105% of good power. The 357xp is a great saw. The advice in the thread is spot in in my experience. The usual start of the piston failure is the plastic intake clamp letting go or leaking and leaning out. Put a new intake with the metal clamp and the source of most trouble is gone, then you just have to fix the p/c and rebuild the carb and tune it up.
     
  18. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    Deleted base gasket, Got the updated intake with the metal clamp, and got a nicely rebuilt carb from @cuinrearview to go along with the new jug and piston and shes a runner! First saw i've rebuilt so pretty happy to have it running easily, hopefully it stays together
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  19. Huskitoter

    Huskitoter ArboristSite Operative

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    Nice. Did you use an OEM jug? Don't toss the old one. Someone can clean that transfer off and use it.

    The one I built impresses the heck out of me and is getting stronger with each tank of fuel.
     
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  20. landfakers

    landfakers ArboristSite Lurker

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    Yep OEM Piston and Jug for this guy
     

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