Decomp valve... OEM only, or AM?

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Saw Fixr

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Good Morning..

As the title states.... this is for an MS361, local volunteer Fire Dept. Are aftermarket decomp valves any good or should I stick with OEM only? Price from dealer is $37, and AM is of course, about 1/5 that price. My gut says use OEM only because in an emergency, when they need it, there can’t be any second guessing....
This one sticks, and I feel it’s bettter to replace it than wire wheel it, and call it good..

What say you?
Thanks
 
+1 on plugging, those firefighters should be rugged enough to pull it over. Less to think about, less to go wrong.

I asked the guy I’m doing he repair for, if I could plug it, thinking the same thing...his wife is a member firefighter also, and she uses the decomp.....
I can certainly use a Husqvarna one if they’re better than the Stihl ones.
 
I asked the guy I’m doing he repair for, if I could plug it, thinking the same thing...his wife is a member firefighter also, and she uses the decomp.....
I can certainly use a Husqvarna one if they’re better than the Stihl ones.
On a saw that size, the decomp is not even needed, on or off, they feel the same.
 
Don't need a decomp in a 361. I used a AM decomp on a dolmar once and it was so weak that every pull it would shut. So every cold start if I was going to use the decomp I would have to push it in after every pull.
 
I had an after market decomp on a 660 I built. It would pop out every pull, then after about 30 minutes of running, the knob blew off of it. As others have said, it shouldn't need one, but if it is necessary, a Husqvarna one is cheaper and any Stihl will run better if it has a Husqvarna part in it.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
OEM or plug it. The 460 Rescue we have on the quint has no decomp, I’d rather have it plugged, especially on a 361. It’s one less part to fail.

If you don’t go OEM on the fix and someone gets hurt involving the equipment so much as touching the saw and the FD and insurance company finds out the repair was with aftermarket parts (that the manufacturer will not recommend) you *will* get glued, screwed and tattooed for it. It’s not worth taking the liability for a not 100% tool repair for a tool in a dangerous and unfortunately, litigious profession as it is. Which means you use a Stihl part from a Stihl dealer, then you must prove compentency . I can do most repairs on a Stihl saw in an hour or less but there’s the question if compentency. I’m not a certified Stihl tech, so our gear goes there, and we eat the cost.
 
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Farmertec.

The stem fell down into a running J-red 670. [emoji90][emoji90][emoji90]

And, I just purchased two Stihl decomp for $14 ea.. So your Stealership is screwing you.
 
Yeah, dealer didn’t have them In stock, and said new pricing was $37. Old was around $17. I’ve had a leaky Stihl decomp before, and will install the Husky one. Even its$35!
As much as I want to plug it, I have to go with what they want. Not my $, so I’ll leave it in Their lap.
Thank You all, who’ve responded!
 
A Husky decomp should be sub-$15 and is a better piece than Stihl. Husky oem decomps are made in Germany-at least the ones I have. On ported saws I drill the holes bigger so they don’t pop as easily.

Never ever AM for the reasons stated above. The stem is held in by the cap alone. Once the cap falls off, the stem falls into the motor and destroys the motor.
 
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