ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
The tie straps are marked "SW" and the drivers 50a
Depth Gauge Tools for Saw Chain
- Thread starter Philbert
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The tie straps are marked "SW" and the drivers 50a
SawTroll
Information Collector
There is a special combo one for 95VP/VPX, that indicates a 30 degree top-plate angle, but I haven't checked if the raker plate is any different.
There also are .325 chain with low profile cutters ut there, but most I know of are discontinued by now. Oregon 33/34/35 LG and SL, Stihl Topic (TS and TM). Those take a 4.5 mm file (11/64"). All that remains is the horrible SL chain, with large bumpers on the tie straps.
These would likely need a different raker plate, but I don't think it ever was made.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Then it isn't Oregon at all, just looks pretty much like LG. I don't know what brand it is, but someone on the site will know (if they see your question). Now it is "hidden" in this thread, and many will not see it. I suggest that you make a new thread.
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Perhaps that is Sandvik Windsor 50APL which crosses to Oregon 72LG.
SawTroll
Information Collector
That would be my first guess as well, if I had to make one. I don't know how they look though, Windsor haven't been a common brand here.
I have some 'SW' marked chain. The appearance is similar to Sanvik and Windsor marked chains of the same types (e.g. chisel or semi-chisel, etc.). If the pitch, gauge, and DL count are OK, no reason not to run it. If you are getting dust, the basic sharpening rules apply: sharp bevels on the top and side plates, check your depth gauges, and (preferably) make all cutters the same (lengths, angles, etc.).
Philbert
OK, if we are 'showing off' here . . . .
I don't have a 13/64, 5.2mm file guide (!), but my birthday is in September. My eyesight is also not as good as it used to be, so I labeled all of my stuff clearly.
I like the thumbwheels on the STIHL guides better than the spring clip on the Oregon guides. I have a few of those too, but not a full set.
There are also one or two (?) of the Husky roller guides I need to have the whole set.
Nice to have choices, as long as you understand the differences. These STIHL and Oregon file guides support the files from above, and are supposed to be used with a 0° 'down angle'. The Husky guides support the files from below, and hold the file at a 10° down angle (as I understand). The grooves on the Husky guides do not fit all brands/types of chains. If you go 'back-and-forth' between these different styles of filing guides, you may have to reshape the cutting edges a bit each time.
Philbert
SawTroll
Information Collector
That chain has really horrible ramps/bumpers on the driver, unlike the chain in question, despite the markings adds up?
The Windsor 50 chain I have are .325 .050 semi-chisel (without any bumpers or ramps, but with the same large rakers).
Niko, that chain was donated to Philbert's No-Kill Chain Shelter and Home for Unloved Saw Chains, *where we accept all types of chains, regardless of their condition, ethnicity, or low kickback orientation/status. We harbor chains stamped and formed outside of the US, without any questions, even when they arrive without documentation. Each chain is gently bathed, sorted, and eventually re-homed with a loving sawyer for the rest of their useful lives.
That said . . . most chains are formed of components and assembled in various configurations. You will notice that the bumper drive links are stamped '50' and the non-bumper drive links '50A'. I am sure that some of the same components were also used to form chain that did not have the low kickback features, for semi-chisel chains, for skip tooth versions, etc., etc., etc.
Philbert
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for the help. I will pull the chain later and count drive links. I will find out the pitch then as well.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I've read something like this several times and it makes no sense to me. Like the blade on a hand plane, there is an angle between the blade and the shoe, but the exposure distance is what controls the cut. Here there is a 6deg angle, but the depth is what you want to change - why would you want to change it as the cutter edge moves (slightly) further from the depth gauge?
The only thing I can think of is that unlike a hand plane the cutter actually rotates down into the wood, pivoting on the depth gauge. How much depends on a lot of things, like chain tension. Still, as the distance between the cutter edge gets longer it would take a bigger bite for a given depth gauge setting so I would think you would want to reduce it not increase it!
I just use a cheap saddle type - if you figure the length of the entire cutter is maybe 0.250" then the 0.250 X SIN(6deg) = 0.026". So the total vertical height of the angled cutter is only 0.026" - how much variation due to cutter length would you expect, and how much does it really matter for working chains?
Yes, the cutters rock/pivot. Read BobL's thread referenced in the first post of this thread for an explanation. Or the 'Carlton Complete Book of Saw Chain'.
As for a hand plane cutter (or 'blade', 'iron', etc.), that cutting bevel is advanced as the edge wears/is sharpened away, so its relatonship with the base plate/depth gauge remains constant.
Philbert
As for a hand plane cutter (or 'blade', 'iron', etc.), that cutting bevel is advanced as the edge wears/is sharpened away, so its relatonship with the base plate/depth gauge remains constant.
Philbert
SawTroll
Information Collector
@Chris-PA
Read the linked up document part 6 and 12-13, and you will understand how it actually works; http://www.carltonproducts.com/pdfs/CarltonSafetyMaintManual_EN.pdf
Pay attention to position 2 in the illustration of how the chain cuts.
Read the linked up document part 6 and 12-13, and you will understand how it actually works; http://www.carltonproducts.com/pdfs/CarltonSafetyMaintManual_EN.pdf
Pay attention to position 2 in the illustration of how the chain cuts.
Might as well share it here for everybody:
Philbert
Philbert
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Exactly why one must continually set the depth gauges as the cutter is sharpened back. I took issue with the claim that the setting must be increased as the cutters wear - the required additional rotation angle of the cutter is pretty small. I'll have to calculate how much more would have to be removed from the depth gauge to compensate some time, but my hunch is that it's not enough to worry about.
Basically we set the gauges without the angle of rotation, and the question is how much does that angle increase as the cutter wears?
Again, BobL goes into that 'constant angle' explanation in his thread. Many A.S. participants have noted that, in their experience, the cutters don't seem to cut as well when ground back at the standard depth gauge offset, so I feel that there is some credibility to this 'progressive depth gauge' idea. Since Carlton, Husqvarna, and STIHL have all sold progressive gauge tools, they must put some stock into it as well.
I usually use the standard depth gauge tools shown in the first few posts, and take off 'a little more' when the top plates are ground back a ways. I have not measured this additional amount, but try to make all cutters and depth gauges the same. Maybe not as precise, but it cuts wood.
Philbert
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
So I picked up a 3/8ths lo pro roller guide locally. I came with this plate and as near as I can tell, it sits on top of two cutters. Is it still considered progressive?
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-3-8-Lo-Pro-Mini-Chainsaw-Chain-505698103.axd
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-3-8-Lo-Pro-Mini-Chainsaw-Chain-505698103.axd
