Depth Gauge Tools for Saw Chain

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I said it was an option Niko, not necessarily the best way. Works for a lot of guys.

Philbert

It does work, but not really well. Anyway, it is better than just guessing, as long as the cutters are approximately the same length - but the problem of guessing how much more to take will always be a challenge, with anything but new chain.
You can of course have several, with different depth settings, but then again you have to figure out when to change to the next deeper one.
 
Might as well share it here for everybody:

423596

It's a complex issue, but it's also very simple. The BobL method is the best by a country mile. Some general caveats though;

Full chisel almost doesn't need the rakers done, almost to the end of the tooth. Full chisel is just so aggressive, and the raker is shaped very differently... generally tall and not very wide. Touching up the rakers on full chisel often leads to an unusable chain. I will generally only touch the rakers on full chisel if the chain is not biting like crazy, and then by only one or at most 2 file strokes.

Semi chisel is an entirely different beast, and rakers are critical to get the most out of it. A well sharpened semi chisel with rakers set right comes very close to full chisel in terms of speed, but will stay sharp longer, cut a much greater volume of wood between sharpenings, and lose less tooth length at each sharpening. All up, in terms of volume of wood cut per chain I would estimate semi chisel to cut 3-4 times the volume of wood. The rakers are critical though! Stihl is the best chain by far. Carlton second best but comes from the factory with rakers way too high. I will put 4-5 full hard strokes from a fresh raker file on carlton chain straight out of the box before even using it.

Raker shape is every bit as important as height. Smooth round rakers will cut smoothly, and can be taken lower and remove a lot more material. Pointy triangular rakers are by far the worst and way too agressive, they will dig in and stall at the least provocation. Flattened rakers are jittery.
 
Raker shape is every bit as important as height. Smooth round rakers will cut smoothly, and can be taken lower and remove a lot more material. Pointy triangular rakers are by far the worst and way too agressive, they will dig in and stall at the least provocation. Flattened rakers are jittery.

Down with 'pointy rakers'!

Philbert
 
So far I have had good luck with roller guides fitting my saw chain. Hey, Sawtroll, you remember that mystery 3/8ths chain? 3/8ths roller guide worked for it. And I have test fitted the 3/8ths lo pro roller guide to my Lo Pro Stihl chain. So far, so good.

I see imagineero's post about not touching the rakers on full chisel chain. Oops. When I did the loop on my Craftsman, I touched up the rakers using the husky progressive guide, as I sharpened the chain.
 
It's a complex issue, but it's also very simple. The BobL method is the best by a country mile. Some general caveats though;

Full chisel almost doesn't need the rakers done, almost to the end of the tooth. Full chisel is just so aggressive, and the raker is shaped very differently... generally tall and not very wide. Touching up the rakers on full chisel often leads to an unusable chain. I will generally only touch the rakers on full chisel if the chain is not biting like crazy, and then by only one or at most 2 file strokes.

Semi chisel is an entirely different beast, and rakers are critical to get the most out of it. A well sharpened semi chisel with rakers set right comes very close to full chisel in terms of speed, but will stay sharp longer, cut a much greater volume of wood between sharpenings, and lose less tooth length at each sharpening. All up, in terms of volume of wood cut per chain I would estimate semi chisel to cut 3-4 times the volume of wood. The rakers are critical though! Stihl is the best chain by far. Carlton second best but comes from the factory with rakers way too high. I will put 4-5 full hard strokes from a fresh raker file on carlton chain straight out of the box before even using it.

Raker shape is every bit as important as height. Smooth round rakers will cut smoothly, and can be taken lower and remove a lot more material. Pointy triangular rakers are by far the worst and way too agressive, they will dig in and stall at the least provocation. Flattened rakers are jittery.

Not sure what wood you are cutting, but I touch the rakers on full chisel the first time I sharpen cutters to make sure I'm at about 6 degrees drop on them. I also make certain I have the depth gauges rounded off appropriately. I guess I just like my chains agressive, because they do indeed pull themselves into the wood.

I will probably back off a bit on the 16" 3/8 chains that I'm now using on the 261. But the 046 using a 20" bar loves it.
 
Here is a progressive gauge that I made after reading through BobL's work. The point of the tooth fits at the back of the little block. The depth gauge setting is correct when the tool lays flat on the chain. It makes it really quick and easy to set up a chain.

I would love to see a demo picture of this in use if you have one!
 
I would love to see a demo picture of this in use if you have one!
Here you go. It just lays on top of the cutter teeth. If the depth gauge is high, it rocks and won't sit flat on top of the teeth. You can take a swipe with a flat file and check again. I used to use the digital angle finder, but this is much faster. I tried to make it long enough to work with skip chain, but I don't run skip chain so I haven't checked that feature out.
 

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I'd love to see him make a few more! Nice, simple gauge.

Philbert
Thanks much. The reason I put the drawing out this morning was to see if anybody with a 3-D printer might be interested in making a batch. Before I thought of this approach, I tried the feeler gauge method and the digital angle finder. This little gizmo is much faster and easier to use than those methods.
 
Thanks much. The reason I put the drawing out this morning was to see if anybody with a 3-D printer might be interested in making a batch. Before I thought of this approach, I tried the feeler gauge method and the digital angle finder. This little gizmo is much faster and easier to use than those methods.

Thanks for posting that. I can see how it would be efficient. I'm getting handy with the DAF but I'm always looking for a better way, because my eyes are getting a little tired and sometimes I have a bit of trouble reading the DAF. The other issue with it is that since I file with the chain and bar mounted in a workshop vise, I need to reverse the direction of the chain to do one side of the cutters and gauges. And the DAF gives me different readings going the other direction, probably because the bar rails are not level; they have a slight rise and fall in them.

I'm going to experiment with the FOP a little and see what sort of drop it's providing, then decide how to move forward. I might try the Husky too since it looks promising; if it will just fit Stihl RS.
 
Anybody just use a Pfred file/raker file combo? It seems to work well on my milling chains. If the cutters have = length the depth is right.

I use the the old Pherd single set almost every time I hand file 3/8 chains. I have using a Forrester copy on the .325 and Lo Pro, not as nice a setup to look at but functions as it should.


And while we are at it, what do you use for files/grinders? For the rakers. If I have the time I still use a flat file and radius the rakers, takes a lot of time. If a negelected chain I will use an angle grinder to get close then finish with a flat file.

Hand file with some type of guide. Typically a FOP style.

I still hand file all my cutters and have been doing so for > 35 years. I don't know anybody local who can get them sharper with a machine.

Filing or grinding generally depends on the condition of the chain, not filing the bad day chains.

All chains get the the DGs maintained, it is night and day difference especially on the mills. Operating angle is not going to be the same in every instance but the DGs get maintained just as the cutters.
 
It's a complex issue, but it's also very simple. The BobL method is the best by a country mile. Some general caveats though;

Full chisel almost doesn't need the rakers done, almost to the end of the tooth. Full chisel is just so aggressive, and the raker is shaped very differently... generally tall and not very wide. Touching up the rakers on full chisel often leads to an unusable chain. I will generally only touch the rakers on full chisel if the chain is not biting like crazy, and then by only one or at most 2 file strokes.

Semi chisel is an entirely different beast, and rakers are critical to get the most out of it. A well sharpened semi chisel with rakers set right comes very close to full chisel in terms of speed, but will stay sharp longer, cut a much greater volume of wood between sharpenings, and lose less tooth length at each sharpening. All up, in terms of volume of wood cut per chain I would estimate semi chisel to cut 3-4 times the volume of wood. The rakers are critical though! Stihl is the best chain by far. Carlton second best but comes from the factory with rakers way too high. I will put 4-5 full hard strokes from a fresh raker file on carlton chain straight out of the box before even using it.

Raker shape is every bit as important as height. Smooth round rakers will cut smoothly, and can be taken lower and remove a lot more material. Pointy triangular rakers are by far the worst and way too agressive, they will dig in and stall at the least provocation. Flattened rakers are jittery.

:lol: A lot is wrong in that post, in fact too much to even start commenting on the details. Mostly a bunch of BS and infactual statements - but also some correct statements inbetween, like that the handling of the rakers are very important.

Maybe the wood you cut just is too hard for chisel chain working like it should? I understand that is quite common in Australia.
 
One of the things that maintaining the DGs seems to accomplish is allowing the chips to leave the cutter tunnel better throughout the life of the chain. Again if the chain is for milling this can make a big difference in the speed versus finish battle. There is always some carry over past the drive sprocket but there is an easily visible difference between a maintained chain and a cutter only chain.

Cleaned up gullets are good as well but not as significant or impressive a change as a maintained DG.
 
FYI - ran across a few 'New Old Stock' File-O-Plates (NOS FOP!), that illustrate how they were very simple, but chain specific.

These have been 're-homed' with someone who might actually have some Carlton .354 and .365 chains!

Philbert
FOP old.jpg
 
Raker shape is every bit as important as height. Smooth round rakers will cut smoothly, and can be taken lower and remove a lot more material. Pointy triangular rakers are by far the worst and way too agressive, they will dig in and stall at the least provocation. Flattened rakers are jittery.

I wonder if the pointy rakers themselves are really causing the stall, or if they are allowing a bigger cutting angle on the cutters. This is an issue we were discussing in the 'pointed raker' thread a while back - http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pointed-rakers.283648/

I wouldn't expect the raker to cause that much drag to stall the saw, so it is probably an increase in cutting angle - the chain is taking a bigger bite.
 
Sorry in advance for this side tangent but I've been meaning to ask you guys about the Husqvarna roller guide. How do you feel about the angle that guide suggests? I think it's too much, it looks to be nearly 30* my only complaint with it is the angle. What are your thoughts on this?

Regarding rakers, I read an interesting post a while back where a guy was adjusting his raker with his round file. He filed the back of the raker towards the cutting direction. This opened up the gullet area in front of the cutter. What's your opinion on this method?
 
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