Didier splitters

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New Engine

Ok, guys. Tomorrow I pull the trigger on the Harbor Freight Predator engine. Not sure how long they take to ship, but I'll take plenty of pics and check in to let you know how it goes. Does anyone know if I'm going to have to drill any holes? I'm hoping it bolts right on, but expecting the worst. :)
 
Hampton1825 said:
Ok, guys. Tomorrow I pull the trigger on the Harbor Freight Predator engine. Not sure how long they take to ship, but I'll take plenty of pics and check in to let you know how it goes. Does anyone know if I'm going to have to drill any holes? I'm hoping it bolts right on, but expecting the worst. :)
Click to expand...

I installed a 6.5 hp Harbour Freight motor on my Didier splitter last year and what a difference in power, alot more than the stock 5 hp had.
 
Hampton1825 said:
Ok, guys. Tomorrow I pull the trigger on the Harbor Freight Predator engine. Not sure how long they take to ship, but I'll take plenty of pics and check in to let you know how it goes. Does anyone know if I'm going to have to drill any holes? I'm hoping it bolts right on, but expecting the worst. :)
Click to expand...


Harbor freight usually has the 6.5 engine in stock, but whatever,. I wanted to tell you that if you use the threaded holes on the shaft side of the predator to mount the pump, be careful, because it seems to me they strip very easily. Lock washers and locktite are advisable.
 
I believe the reason the threads seem to strip out easily is that the threads are a metric size that is just slightly different then SAE threads. If the wrong bolts are used they will start easily but then slowly damage the aluminum threads as the bolt is tightened.
 
Did you need to drill in holes in the splitter or did the mounting holes on the engine line-up ok?

sawbuckjohn said:
Harbor freight usually has the 6.5 engine in stock, but whatever,. I wanted to tell you that if you use the threaded holes on the shaft side of the predator to mount the pump, be careful, because it seems to me they strip very easily. Lock washers and locktite are advisable.
Click to expand...
 
Hampton1825 said:
Did you need to drill in holes in the splitter or did the mounting holes on the engine line-up ok?
Click to expand...
I did use metric bolts. maybe I'm too strong. also I haven't mounted one on the Didier, I'm talking other applications, but an easy way to do it is to set the enging on a piece of cardboard and press down or bump it side to side or whatever, just to make an impression on the cardboard,cut it out, punch holes where the bolts go and lay it on the didier, see how it lines up.
 
update

As promised, the Predator engine (212cc - Harbor Freight) bolted right in place on the splitter. It couldn't have been easier. The only challenge was getting the small "key" (not sure what it's called...but essentially the universal joint between the engine and the pump) off the old drive shaft. I soaked it pretty good with WD40 and then started carefully tapping it with a small hammer and eventually it came off. Oh, and it the hex bolt was totally rusted in place...so I soaked that also and then found that I had a set of hex drive heads with my all my other square drive, etc. sets. Good luck that was. So what I did was put that on a 3/8 socket wrench and gave it a hard careful twist and it came unglued. Finally, the engine fired right up. No issues at all.

So thanks for all the advice guys. You're really saving me a TON of money walking me through all this!
View attachment 248255
 
Red is trans
I use hydraulic fluid
I get it at the auto parts store by the gallon

Unless you use the splitter on level ground you'll need to disconnect the oil level cutoff switch.
It's the wires that come out of the block and into the little metal box.
I was using it on a small hill and couldn't get it to start,brought it into the garage thinking something was wrong .It started right up,brought it back to do some splitting,wouldn't start.I then figured it was the oil level switch.
 
The tank is to small anyway.The tanks on the newer ones are much bigger.
I want to increase the size of mine but haven't put much time into locating a bigger one.
I'll do a little searching and will let you know if i find anything.
 
bigblock73 said:
The tank it comes with gets too hot
A bigger tank will help keep it cooler
Click to expand...

I think I'm going to patch the old tank to make sure I don't have bigger fish to fry with the cylinder. I cleaned the bottom up with a torch and wire wheel and it's just pinholes from external moisture that can be cured with epoxy, fiberglass and maybe a bit of carbon fiber thrown in to boot. I can then be more thoughtful about upgrading the tank later.
 
Hampton1825 said:
I think I'm going to patch the old tank to make sure I don't have bigger fish to fry with the cylinder. I cleaned the bottom up with a torch and wire wheel and it's just pinholes from external moisture that can be cured with epoxy, fiberglass and maybe a bit of carbon fiber thrown in to boot. I can then be more thoughtful about upgrading the tank later.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did, and it's been working fine for months.
 
bigblock73 said:
The tank it comes with gets too hot
A bigger tank will help keep it cooler
Click to expand...

This is the reccomendation from a hydraulic fluid manufacturer .

Oil operating temperature should not exceed 200° F. (93° C.) with a maximum of 180° F. (82° C.) generally
recommended. 120° F to 140° F. (50° C. to 60° C.) is generally considered the optimum system operating temperatures. High temperatures result in rapid oil deterioration and may point out a need for an oil cooler or a larger reservoir. The nearer to optimum temperature, the longer the service life of the oil and the hydraulic components.

The optimun operating temperature is about the same as the water in a domestic water heater.

At lower than optimun fluid temps air and moisture are more likely to be trapped causing pump damage.
 

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