Differences 45-52-58-(62)cc chinease zenoah clones

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Here's just one example of blatant false advertising, probably in ignorance.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/45-2MM-...942987?hash=item364c74960b:g:YFkAAOSwjUxbLpQD
It's really either 51.4cc (45.2x32) or 54.6cc (45.2x34).

Re: significant benefit or marketing hype.
Chainsaws are commonly classified in the market by their engine size. It's reasonable for a potential customer to assume that the "58cc" version (which we know is actually 54.6cc at most) will perform 28% better than the "45cc" model so if the larger engine only costs 15% more... Wow! It's a bargain!
Hardly any people will buy one of each and compare them.

Now, if chainsaws were commonly classified by their carb venturi and jet size, instead of having four different engine sizes, I imagine they'd instead have four different carb sizes, all with the same cylinder & piston.
 
That's not a big deal at all, a lot of chainsaws are a touch smaller than what's on the side of em, ie a Husqvarna 55 is 53cc.
For once that ad states the 58 cylinder only fits the 58, a lot of them also claim its a big bore for the 45 and 52 which it kinda is but the squish is around 80 thousands lol.

I was expecting a link to one of the 68 or 75cc Chinese saws that are actually 50cc lol.
 
That's not a big deal at all, a lot of chainsaws are a touch smaller than what's on the side of em, ie a Husqvarna 55 is 53cc.
One slight difference is that Husqvarna didn't advertise that the 53cc 55 was 55cc or that the 77cc 480 was 80cc or (unsurprisingly) that the 67cc 266 was 66cc. :)

I was expecting a link to one of the 68 or 75cc Chinese saws that are actually 50cc lol.
There is a well known internet-only brand of Husky 372 copy sold in Australia as "SX82" and clearly staying 82cc all over the listing, which more than one person has measured and found to be 50mm x 36mm....exactly the same as an actual 372!
 
Well saw came today. Wow I really did get what I paid for!!!!
This is the cheapest made saw I have ever come across. The plastics are wafer thin, the aluminum fins are wafer thin lol. The piston is extremely cheap, cheaper than the poulan 3314 and that’s pretty cheap! Piston pin bearing has minor play, very minor but it’s there. It’s a two port design with a piston window to feed the transfers.
Casing is, well uh I don’t know. I wanted to say magnesium but I’m just not sure. It feels the same as the rest, I will have to do a shaving test. But I just can’t see given the rest of how this saw is, that it is indeed magnesium. I’ll find out!
Controls are very very cheap plastic, there is not one piece of finer re enforced anywhere on this saw.
Uses a single post side tensioning cover, which the chain brake came broken lol .
Chain and sprocket are .325 full chisel with a very aggressive grind. The top plate edge is very thin because of this.
Pull starter handle is well just sad, I think it just might break if this saw had decent compression :)

I’m really glad I ripped this apart before I even fired it cause there were a couple of serious issues.
First any and all assembly oil or two stroke oil is gone, there is a small residue of powder left on the cylinder and ports. It is not wet at all and is literally as dry as a bone.

Second the intake had a bolt that was half and inch out lol, I tightened it down just to see if maybe they used too long of a screw. Nope it wouldn’t have sealed at all. I probably would not have got it started.


The good, yes there is some
150$CAD
Non strato design
Looks like some potential for porting. The intake and exhaust have lots of room but the window in the piston does not, this Is probably it’s bottle neck for flow.

Aluminum handle
Chinesium case
Non clam shell design
Looks like a half decent carb with decent flow characteristics and a good attention to detail to whom ever finished it.

I have about 15 pics if anyone wants to see let me know and I’ll upload. Otherwise I won’t waste my time.
Gonna re assemble and run this thing into the ground lol, see how it is in comparison to a poulan3314.
 
Looks like a half decent carb with decent flow characteristics and a good attention to detail to whom ever finished it.

I have about 15 pics if anyone wants to see let me know and I’ll upload. Otherwise I won’t waste my time.

A lot more problems than my Millers Falls...though I haven't looked at it on the inside! I'll have a go at listing its on-delivery "idiosyncrasies" tomorrow.

What brand is the carb? It's a Riuxing on my Homelite branded G3800 copy, which is excellent (should be same as on US market Ryobi 3714) and a Huayang on the Millers Falls, which seems to return to a different idle speed after every cut.

I'd be interested in seeing the pics but don't bother if I'm the only one.
 
Ok I just got it back together and busted it’s ass on the log pile.
Once I got it dialed in I was very impressed with the power and throttle response. It’s a little fire cracker for sure!
Had to keep the idle around 3200 to keep it from stalling after longer throttle duration. This happened on both my poulans, as soon as you let go of the throttle it comes down to idle but then dies. Maybe I’m tuning wrong here? Or is this a carb issue?
I tuned it to 10600 rpm on the high and it is just ripping, I found it really hard to hear it 4 stroking.

About near end of tank it was smoking like crazy and I realized it was bar oil cooking on the fins. Upon further investigation it’s coming from behind the flywheel and blowing through the machine. I think it’s coming from one of the bolts, I’ll have to check it out tomorrow.

Clutch cover with the brake did not fit properly, so I removed the brake mechanism completely to resolve that. It didn’t work properly anyways so what the hell.

Heat soak is a problem as it would not start when hot, I had boiling fuel for sure as pressure was building big time in the tank. I had to wait to get it to restart.

Chain felt like it was the wrong type of pitch for the sprocket, as it was jumping around when I first put it on by hand. I ran it anyways and it seemed fine after a tank. I really didn’t care if it screwed up the b&c

I removed the base gasket when I rebuilt it, maybe this is why it gets incredibly hot? Could also explain why it was running so well? Lol

Anyways here are some pics
 

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I have the idle set to 3500ish rpm on both my Chinese saws. They never stall and respond a touch quicker set a little higher. The chain never spins at idle either, you could set the idle to 4000rpm and it still wont.

Mine heat soak if I let them set about ten minutes after cutting a bunch on a hot day, if they only set for five minutes or less they're fine, if they don't start in 2 pulls I choke them, then they fire right up.
My 62 is worse than the 54 with heat soak but it's bigger and gets even hotter.
 
I have the idle set to 3500ish rpm on both my Chinese saws. They never stall and respond a touch quicker set a little higher. The chain never spins at idle either, you could set the idle to 4000rpm and it still wont.

Mine heat soak if I let them set about ten minutes after cutting a bunch on a hot day, if they only set for five minutes or less they're fine, if they don't start in 2 pulls I choke them, then they fire right up.
My 62 is worse than the 54 with heat soak but it's bigger and gets even hotter.
Good to know that I’m probably not doing something wrong, thx for that info.


I would love to replace the plastics on this with something better. The tank caps are terrible as well.
I also had to put a 3/8 nut on the feed end of the Oiler line in the tank. It didn’t come with a filter and on top of that the line naturally curled up. So after about 10% of the tank is used she runs dry in the horizontal position.
 
I think joncutter is of a higher quality than I bought.

I tightened the bolts and she seems to be holding. It actually ran better so I have to assume it was leaking into crankcase.
The power and throttle response for this little thing is incredibly impressive. I just can’t get over it.
It’s literally falling apart so any real world application imo is going to involve some heart ache. I want to keep using it but the chain is beyond use, it seems to be square ground... yes an angle grinder or something.
Using my 5/32 on it proved fruitless cause some teeth are soft and others are hard lmao. I thankfully have .325 bars and chains lying around and it appears to be a husky small mount. When I feel like it I’ll see if that works. However I am def going to have to replace the gas and oil caps cause they are shot... I’ll have to see what fits.
The o rings are already starting to pop out when tightening down the caps for fuel...


It’s really too bad cause it’s a really strong engine on a terrible anti vibe chassis.
 
Damn I would get two at least.

Husk if you look at the piston crown you can see a sand hole or air bubble from the casting lol.
 
I’m looking at the photo again and I thought when I was physically looking at it, that it was a casting error. But now it seems that it might be part of the molding.

I’m gonna get some shots of the caps and how terrible they really are
 
I finally got around to listing the "issues" with the aforementioned Millers Falls Zenoah 3800 copy.
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ease-zenoah-clones.334500/page-2#post-6969802

Roughly in order of discovery.
1. Had apparently low compression out of the box. Wasn't long before I looked under the air-filter cover and found the spark plug a quarter turn unscrewed.
2. Air-filter cover will only seat and seal properly if you place it roughly in the right place, then begin tightening the retaining screw, then hit the cover so that it snaps into place, and then continue tightening the screw.
3. Random screws used throughout.
(a) Chain tensioner screw has a Phillips head and a captive spring washer between the head and the case for no particular reason.
(b) Mixture of 4mm allen bolts and Phillips screws.
(c) Chain catcher screw is same length as the others. It's meant to have an extended length that protrudes into a circular moulding in the fuel tank so as to limit front AV spring movement. (see pic)
4. Front AV spring wire gauge way too thick to effectively dampen vibration, and spring diameter too large so that it's jammed against the front of the tank/handle. (see same pic)
5. Imprecise moulding of clutch cover and main housing has resulted in poor alignment of clutch & brake band and ineffective deflection of chips away from the operator.
6. Thread-locking compound used randomly and unnecessarily. E.g. needed a long handle and constant effort to remove the clutch.
7. Idle wanders, especially coming off throttle. (Too scared to look deeper inside for now :()

Buyer beware! It does cut wood though.:)
 

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