Directioinal falling ?s for the pro's

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Brian13

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I have a question about putting a tree to the ground where you want it, with heavy side lean. I have done a fair bit of reading with techniques mentioned in brief detail, but not enough for me to understand the process. Most of what I get to cut are undesirable trees that are growing anyway but straight, and thus far they usually end up going with the lean. I know it takes more than reading, I am just looking for a good basis to start with. What kind of techniques or combo of techniques are used to get a tree to fall or swing 90* to its lean?

And for a block face cut.... I know it the hinge wood holds longer, but when would it be practical for use.

Thanks guys, trying to learn and not be annoying at the same time.:bowdown:
 
Bringing leaning junk around is difficult because generally you have more height without much diameter to work with. Get your hinge locatedon the best wood on the stump, preferably lined up with a root flare. Try to get to as close to 100% of the diameter on your hinge. Backcut, plan on a pie shaped hinge with the thicker part on the not-under-the-lean side. Get your face as open as possible because as soon as the face closes the hinge will break.

Even so, leaning junk is leaning junk and you'd better be careful pushing your bets. Once you get into larger diameter you can do a whole lot more, throw in dutchman and siswheels and you can get even more, but you have to be more careful to, if you're dealing with sawtimber, you can't bust butt wood.
 
ill bite a little...

I have a question about putting a tree to the ground where you want it, with heavy side lean. I have done a fair bit of reading with techniques mentioned in brief detail, but not enough for me to understand the process. Most of what I get to cut are undesirable trees that are growing anyway but straight, and thus far they usually end up going with the lean. I know it takes more than reading, I am just looking for a good basis to start with. What kind of techniques or combo of techniques are used to get a tree to fall or swing 90* to its lean?

And for a block face cut.... I know it the hinge wood holds longer, but when would it be practical for use.

Thanks guys, trying to learn and not be annoying at the same time.:bowdown:

I have alotta ways i do it....its hard enough to explain person to person...let alone to do it on the computer. That and some people on here wouldn't like the way i would say to do it....(to swing a tree)...oh well.:) If you're falling a tree with side lean throw a face in it 1/4-1/5 of the dia....and no matter what you do make sure if you're borecutting it start on the hanging side...and make sure the hinge on the side it is leaning away from is thicker than the side that its leaning to...that's just the crude basic's though...you can integrate waaaay more factors to make it do exactly what you want it to do...but again some people...so i just wont reveal my ways...:)
 
I have heard about the dutchman, but the siswheel is a new one on me. I have tried a tapered hinge with limited success. I understand how the dutchman works, but do not understand the application of it. I dont know if there is a formula for the tree size to the amount of hinge wood cut, or if it is feel and experience, so I have not tried it. I do know it can cause problems if not done right or wrong application. Thank you for the answers, got a lot to learn and to few trees to learn with.
 
I have heard about the dutchman, but the siswheel is a new one on me. I have tried a tapered hinge with limited success. I understand how the dutchman works, but do not understand the application of it. I dont know if there is a formula for the tree size to the amount of hinge wood cut, or if it is feel and experience, so I have not tried it. I do know it can cause problems if not done right or wrong application. Thank you for the answers, got a lot to learn and to few trees to learn with.

You're probably leaving your hinge on the leaning side too thin or too think...vise versa...same effect at times depending on the applicated tree its done to...same goes for the opposite side..
 
If you really want to move the ugly crap you may have to do some scary ####. 1/4 to 1/5 face aint gonna do it. If your talking hardwoods, crown weight has a lot to do with it. Flat land or hills? Some trees move better than others, hold on better than others, break sooner, etc. Start reading, practicing and maybe running. Understanding compression wood versus tension wood and how and when to use them and cut them. You also need space to work when on the swing. Trial and error. Read through the falling pics thread. Do searches on here looking for dutchman, siswheel (siswel, sizwheel and any other combo). Watch hotsaws101's vids on youtube. Hes got some fun stuff to see. By the way I don't condone any of this.
 
Don't know if there's any body falling in your neck of the woods, but if you can find a good faller and offer to pack his gas/oil jugs, that goes along way to showing you're serious about wanting to learn. It gives you an opportunity to watch the practices described here and in other threads, and ask questions about their application at the same time. That kind of learning is priceless and far easier to understand than from any book. Not to mention with out the danger of experimenting on your own. While you can learn alot that way too, trees can be very unforgiving and sometimes don't give you a second chance.
 
If it is *real* important that the tree fall a different direction from its lean like so it will avoid hitting a house, power lines, etc., then what the "tree service guys" do is use a bucket truck or climb the tree. Then cut limbs off on the opposite side to rebalance the tree. Then also use very long pull ropes going the direction they want it to fall. Maybe even connect one of these to a winch on a truck.

Or they will take the tree down a little at a time and also use ropes to assure that each section falls away from where it would hit something.

They make *darn* sure it will not hit that house or whatever.
 
Well i tend to beet the hell outa my wedges and make sure that im angry when i get to the heavy leaners and use a big ax but thats in the woods and not really good for the sole if it goes south for ya:check:
 
I wish there were some fallers close by. The only logging in my area is pine farms probably done with machines, and that is about three or four hours away from me. Most everything around here is tree service, and I have found a member here near by nice enough to help me with learning to climb. The reason I am asking about leaners though is I have a large Live Oak at my parents house that has been struck by lightning several times. At the base it is about a five by six foot oval and at waist height it splits into two stems. One side looks like half of the McDonald's arch. Its lean is towards a road, but if it fell on the road its a small private road with very little traffic and would not be a huge deal. It is about 30" in dia. and what bothers me is the side away from the lean has limited access. I would like to drop it parallel with the road, 90* from the lean. I think there is enough lean that a barber chair is possible but I dont honestly know how having the hinge wood running almost 90* to the lean will effect the chances of a barber chair. The only good part is that half of the tree hasnt been hit by lightning and should not be rotten. The other half has a lot of dead wood up top but does not have as much lean. I dont have any pics at the moment, but will try to get some the next time I am at my parents house. Thanks for the advice so far.:cheers:
 
Yeah i hat to say it bud but I think you are just fitting in to the 'knows enough to be dangerous" category. Listen to coastalfaller. MANY nuances to falling timber.
 
That tree to me falls into the category that my life is worth the expense of renting a bucket truck / man lift and being able to safely take down the tree from the top-down. And be safely away from and above falling branches, etc.

Dead branches can fall and hit you. They are called "widow makers"! They are *very* heavy.

Then with the rotten trunk, one book I have says if in doubt, LEAVE IT! (Meaning if you are not totally sure what the tree is going to do, then let someone else do it.) And no telling what that rotten trunk would do?

I would feel a whole lot safer taking that down in sections.
 
I do apologize, this is not going in the direction of my original intention. If it came off as me trying to get a step by step instruction as to how to fall this tree, I am sorry. I understand the reluctance to offer explicit advice, as my description and even pictures will never tell the full story without being present to see it in person. As well as how I interpret the instruction could cause problems as well. What I was looking for was an in depth discussion on the various techniques used. How and why they work, when they should be applied, what are the dangers or possible negative outcomes associated with each technique. Nothing specific to any tree or any particular situation. If anyone can explain the physics involved, personal experience, and what has worked and not worked. I know it takes more than studying theory to be good/safe at falling a tree. I takes a lot of experience and practice as well. However I was told when I used to play golf a lot, "poor practice technique= poor results, perfect practice= improvement". And to some extent I think that applies here too. Sorry if I got off on the wrong foot, just trying to start an educational discussion, not and instructional one.:cheers:
 
Don't listen to me,, it's not a challenge I typically face. Lead is not required when you are clearing. However, if I need to keep off of the two-track (which trees typically lean into) I find I can fall perpendicular to it's natural lead pretty easily by minding my hinge and following with wedges. A healthy face cut and more holding wood in the direction I want to pull. It's what I do, but I'm humbled by the expertise of the real fallers here, and defer all advice to their take. Nothing extreme here, in size or lean, drop and go or leave it for the cat, etc..
 
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If you really want to move the ugly crap you may have to do some scary ####. 1/4 to 1/5 face aint gonna do it. If your talking hardwoods, crown weight has a lot to do with it. Flat land or hills? Some trees move better than others, hold on better than others, break sooner, etc. Start reading, practicing and maybe running. Understanding compression wood versus tension wood and how and when to use them and cut them. You also need space to work when on the swing. Trial and error. Read through the falling pics thread. Do searches on here looking for dutchman, siswheel (siswel, sizwheel and any other combo). Watch hotsaws101's vids on youtube. Hes got some fun stuff to see. By the way I don't condone any of this.

thers always a critic i guess.....you do what ya want...if you dont listen to me then thats your problem...not mine....just tryin to give the guy advice but other persons seem to want to hamper it....you do what ya need to i guess....oh yea cut a face in it 3/4 of the way deep and just nip the back she'll go any way ya want...real quick....hahahahahahah lmao:laugh::laugh:
 
I do apologize, this is not going in the direction of my original intention. If it came off as me trying to get a step by step instruction as to how to fall this tree, I am sorry. I understand the reluctance to offer explicit advice, as my description and even pictures will never tell the full story without being present to see it in person. As well as how I interpret the instruction could cause problems as well. What I was looking for was an in depth discussion on the various techniques used. How and why they work, when they should be applied, what are the dangers or possible negative outcomes associated with each technique. Nothing specific to any tree or any particular situation. If anyone can explain the physics involved, personal experience, and what has worked and not worked. I know it takes more than studying theory to be good/safe at falling a tree. I takes a lot of experience and practice as well. However I was told when I used to play golf a lot, "poor practice technique= poor results, perfect practice= improvement". And to some extent I think that applies here too. Sorry if I got off on the wrong foot, just trying to start an educational discussion, not and instructional one.:cheers:

Brian, sorry if I missed out on it, but why is it so important to commit a tree 90 degrees from it's lean. This isn't something easily accomplished with every tree. Wedging helps as do sloping undercuts, not something that is recognized as safe but very effective on smaller trees.
Also, hardwoods act different then softwoods even though the basic mechanics is generally the same.
John
 
thers always a critic i guess.....you do what ya want...if you dont listen to me then thats your problem...not mine....just tryin to give the guy advice but other persons seem to want to hamper it....you do what ya need to i guess....oh yea cut a face in it 3/4 of the way deep and just nip the back she'll go any way ya want...real quick....hahahahahahah lmao:laugh::laugh:

Bro, It seems as though you consider GOL stuff as either superior technique, or the secret component to some perceived capability. On the contrary, the GOL skill set is just one piece of the pie, one tool in the bag. Just one. A good start, but not a complete fallers package.
 
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