Do I need to junk my saw? (034 super)

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PWB

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I was up at a buddy's cottage last week, and was giving him a hand with a few things as a thank you. Part of the week was a bunch of trimming so we could replace a roof on a shed near the beach. My 034 suddenly jammed up on the chain brake. Had brought a couple other saws, so we finished the work with the 064. Huge overkill, an 026 would have been loads of saw, but you gotta run what you brung, right?

Pulled the saw apart today. The spot where the bellcrank pivots has broken clean off the housing. ANyone ever have any luck welding this back together?
Maybe JB weld instead? or do I just have a really good parts saw? I took a picture, I'll post it if I can remember how!
(edit: picture added)
http://www.arboristsite.com/album.php?albumid=208&pictureid=753
 
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034 Super is an awful nice saw to just junk.
A real nice one may part out for way more than it would take to replace it tho'.
 
I'm not quite envisioning what busted.... but.. bottom line, that is a great saw. Anything can be fixed pretty cheap with used parts. I'd fix her up. You might find a slightly better all-around saw new, but it'll cost you big.
 
If you look at the picture, you'll see a silver spot above the pivot for the chain brake. The whole thing is supposed to be on that spot, the casting is broken. That casting is the crankcase as far as I can tell....
 
Drill the case and put a longer pin in from the back. The hole shouldn't go inside the case, that looks like the hole will go into the muffler opening. Should be plenty of room. I would think its fixable.
 
The right way, replace the case. However, I'd clean it up a bit and JB Weld it.
 
Drill the case and put a longer pin in from the back. The hole shouldn't go inside the case, that looks like the hole will go into the muffler opening. Should be plenty of room. I would think its fixable.



This should be a fairly quick easy way to fix it. Once you have a longer pin in place you can JB weld, or perhaps Durafix, the broken piece into place to act as a spacer.


Mr. HE:cool:
 
Or just take the chain brake band off... I never use the damn things anyway.. Im sure the PPE poliece will swoop in anytime now and lay the smack down :)
 
Or just take the chain brake band off... I never use the damn things anyway.. Im sure the PPE poliece will swoop in anytime now and lay the smack down :)


Smack! Smack!


:chainsaw:<----Bloody chainsaw. You'll notice that it doesn't have a chainbrake. ;)

On an 034 size saw I think you should have one. Some of the big older saws I run I don't have one since they never came with one. It really makes you be careful and think and that can be a good thing.



Mr. HE:cool:
 
I know the right way is to put a new case half on it, but going to try to fix it somehow. The hole does line up with the muffler. Just wondered if someone else had been down this road. Already thought about a longer pin and JB weld, but there's an awful lot of pressure on the springs on this thing. I've used saws without brakes before, but much prefer a brake......... Guess I'm a wimp!!
 
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Drill the case with a 5/16" drill for a .375-16 UNC tap. Tap it and thread a brass plug into the case coated with locktite. Redrill for a pressed fit at the original pin size. Press it into the case and go cut!
 
Forgot to ask you the size of the pin? If it's over 1/4" you'll need to go to a 29/64" drill and tap with a .500-20 UNF. Then simply get a 1/2-20 brass bolt and thread it in with locktite. Cut it off where necessary (great if you have a bridgeport so you can use an endmill.) Remember to drill for a pressed fit and locktite the pin as well.
 
i would run it with no brake before i junked it, ppl used saws with no brake for years before they were the norm.
 
album.php


I would drill that hole all the way through. Get a bolt longer than the pin plus case depth, and larger than the diameter than the pin. Drill and tap the case out for the bolt, and get a reduced thickness nut to put on the inside of the case. run the bolt in until it bottoms out on the case from the muffler side, and then put the nut on there to provide some stablility and spacing for the lever away from the case. Mark the bolt where it needs to be ground down, and where the groove for the circlip goes. Either take it to a machine shop, and have the bolt machined, or get a 6 pack a drill press and some cutting tools. It would take quite a while but I think you could probably "machine" something to work using just a drill press and a 4" angle grinder.
Even if you need to replace the case, it is worth fixing.
 
B200, sounds like what I had in the back of my head would be your approach too. Got a buddy that's a pretyy good machinist. May have to put the saw in the mill to get a flat surface where it broke...... We'll see what works when I get at it. May do this approach and then a big smear of JB to give it a littel extra strength. There's a lot of tension on the big spring! I'll take some more pictures when we get at it.
 
Changed my mind about a patch job and started looking for a case. Found a guy with a bunch of parts, mostly larger stuff, but he had an 034 case.

Name is Dave Ellis, used to work for Stihl up here. Guess he trained techies.........
Went to pick up the case on saturday, got there and shot the breeze about a bunch of saw stuff. Apparently stihl had a problem with the pin, the later caes has some gussets that mine didn't have. Asked me if I had ever split a case, I said "no, everything but." Wanted to know if I wanted a hand.........

About two hours later my saw was reassembled on the newer case. Man really knows his stuff. Fixed a few other things while he was at it. Offered to sell me a stock appearing 064 he used to race, has a big solo-rex on the shelf too. Going to give him a link to this place, he's got a few more goodies to sell. Got an education on the weekend! Learned a little about race chain too............. :clap:
 
Always fun to meet guys like that, sounds like you had a real good time. He probably loved being able to share what he knows with someone.



Mr. HE:cool:
 

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