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Does Jotul "Clean Burn" really work?

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by MarkB, Mar 12, 2019.

  1. MarkB

    MarkB ArboristSite Lurker

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    I have an older jotul 8 wood stove without the "Clean Burn" (CB) and have to clean the window almost daily. If i don't clean the window will be all black after a couple of days and you can't even see if there is a fire going or not.

    It's not that the wood i burn is unseasoned or wet; it is at least 1 year seasoned and below 15% moisture.

    Is this any better with the newer Jotul stoves with the CB thing?
    How often do you have to clean the window if youre jotul has the CB?
     
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  2. moresnow

    moresnow ArboristSite Operative

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    What type of wood are you getting down to <15% in one year? What is your moisture testing procedure. Curious. I have never owned a Jotul but there sure seems to many happy users. What model do you currently have. I thought most that were equipped with glass had some style of airwash system to keep the glass somewhat clean? Maybe not.
    On another note. Is the family name Noteboom familiar to ya? My brother inlaw's family is from The Netherlands. They are not afraid.... To tip a few brews now and then:cheers:
     
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  3. MarkB

    MarkB ArboristSite Lurker

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    It's an older model 8 from jotul. A predecessor to the 8td. The 8td has the " clean window/clean burn" thing if i'm correct. I.e. the air inlet is near the top of the stove instead of near the bottom, as is mine.

    I'm currently burning lots of poplar and willow (from my own land). This only takes a year or so to get to that moisture level. Burnt also better woods (oak,chesnut, locust) which takes longer to season, but also had to clean the stove window almost every day.

    Don't know a Noteboom.
     
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  4. MarkB

    MarkB ArboristSite Lurker

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    Here's my stove

    P_20190312_101941.jpg
     
  5. Streblerm

    Streblerm Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Either run your stove hotter or extend your seasoning time.

    I always thought I was burning dry wood until I actually burned some dry wood. This year I’m burning 3yr c/s/s wood and I will never go back to 1yr. Occasionally I’ll get a piece that must be wetter and it will leave a dark spot but it almost immediately cleans up just from burning normally.
     
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  6. trukn2004

    trukn2004 ArboristSite Operative

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    I run a Jotul Oslo that is 4 years old with the clean burn. I find that running it hot and making sure the wood doesnt touch the glass or get super close helps keep it clean. It doesnt stay perfect mind you, but I may clean it once every couple of weeks and its mostly due to ash buidup on the edges. Ive never blacked out the glass to the point i cant see in.

    [​IMG] https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...W1mZTNXQU9xUi1aWjBxRExzWGRobmtJWHVSSmRB[/IMG]
     
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  7. Eli Meyer

    Eli Meyer ArboristSite Lurker

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    I have a Lopi Liberty, but it has a similar system. Regardless of whether your stove has the airwash or not, if you cut the air down all of the way, your glass will turn black. The newer EPA stoves don't seem to allow you to cut the air all of the way, but you can still cut it enough to cause the glass to blacken. Normally, when I wake up in the morning after a night of burning, I get the fire going really hot and it clears the glass somewhat.
     
  8. Trapper_Pete

    Trapper_Pete ArboristSite Operative

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    I don't have the Jotul I run a quadrafire with air wash glass but keeping wood shorter so that it isn't as close to the glass helps , burning every stove hot till you have a good bed of coals before chocking the stove down.

    if your fire box is 18 inches 14 inch wood is good because it leaves 2-3 inches between the glass and wood , also leaves some room in the back , if you have to keep banging into the fire brick at the rear they don's last so well.

    before you start up for the day if your stove is cool a slightly dampend balled up sheet of news paper can clean the ash off the glass fairly decent , if you are burning hot each day and clear with news paper one or two times a week and maybe when the stove is actually cold to the touch once a month with the actual glass cleaner you can have very decently view-able fire box , I wasn't worried about seeing just heating this year and haven't cleaned the glass since November , it never is black unless you have a cold sooty fire but grey and gets to a point and doesn't seem to get much worse.
     
  9. Del_

    Del_ Get outside.

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    Yes, clean burn works.

    It helps if you use the stove correctly including using well seasoned wood.

    Our F600CB has a wonderful fire view and we have only cleaned the glass twice this season. Even before cleaning we still had a very good fire view.
     
  10. MarkB

    MarkB ArboristSite Lurker

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    Ok thanks for the info everyone.

    I'm considering buying a newer jotul with all the new fancy stuff. A more efficient stove (less wood to haul!) would also be nice besides the glass cleaning issues.
     
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  11. Be Stihl

    Be Stihl ArboristSite Member

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    I have this same stove, I believe it’s built in 1984. I bought it used and had this same problem, especially when choking down the air for overnight. I have found that if my wood is drier and I stack it in such a way so there is a path for the Inlet air to flow to the back of the stove instead of hitting the first piece of wood, it stays clean and burns really hot. So hot in fact it scares me a little. I can’t close the air off all the way but about 3/4 closed gives me a good long burn, but only after the STT has reached 500!
    If my wood has any moisture inside then I can’t even get to 1/2 way closed. I’m burning just under 1 Year Hickory & Red Oak.
    With all that said I believe your choice of wood and possibly your air inlet setting may be your culprit. I am also still learning this stove as it is new to me. Good luck!
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  12. Be Stihl

    Be Stihl ArboristSite Member

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    And here it is burning wood not seasoned long enough. You can see the difference in the glass from my other picture, as a matter of fact it looks just like yours.
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. James Miller

    James Miller Addicted to ArboristSite

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    20190218_170939.jpg Well seasoned wood and hot fires seem to work in are near 30 year old VC. Stt between 5 and 600 are normal to us. Think I cleaned the glass twice this year.
     
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  14. MarkB

    MarkB ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thats great info guys.

    When my stove pipe goes to 400 i usually turn the air inlet down halfway. I will try to let it burn hotter and see what happens with the glass window.

    @Be Stihl: how many cords do you burn each year with your jotul?

    I would like to have more seasoned wood but storing it would mean a lot more work at the moment. I did that a few years ago and made several 'holzhauzen' outside but it was too wet to burn in wintertime in this wet and damp climate. So i had to move the wood again under a roof before i could burn it. Lots of work.
    I also tried a cover on the top of the holzhauzen but still was not happy with the results.

    What i need is more storage room for my wood so i can store at least 3 years worth instead of 1. This summer it's going to happen. I will make a big shed available for my wood after i build an extension to another shed. That should make things a lot easier.
     
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  15. Be Stihl

    Be Stihl ArboristSite Member

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    I expect to burn about 2 cords, we don’t have a long cold season in the part of the country I live in. I also need more storage room for wood to stay ahead. Unlike some others here who have to have wood heat due to enormous heating bills and extreme cold, I use the stove to offset my electric bill for 4 months. Hopefully you get it lined out, as I hear the CB - EPA stoves are MORE sensitive to unseasoned wood.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. Jhenderson

    Jhenderson ArboristSite Operative

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    We don’t shut our F600 down from Oct-April. 8-12 cord depending on the winter. We clean the glass at the end of the season just so it looks nice . Right now I can see the fire although the glass is dingy.
     
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  17. MarkB

    MarkB ArboristSite Lurker

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    With the wood i'm burning right now (poplar and willow) it's hard to get the stovepipe beyond 400 farenheit.

    I'm burning about 10-12 m3 a year (about 3-3.5 cords) depending on the wood i have. Mind you we have a moderate climate here in the low countries. My burning season is from october to april and wood is not our only source of heat (a natural gas burner is kicking in when the house drop below 60 farenheit).
    Burning wood like this saves about 2000 m3 gas yearly which i like very much!

    What happens when you burn unseasoned (say 1 year old) wood in a modern CB/EPA stove?
     
  18. Streblerm

    Streblerm Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You get lots of visible smoke, low heat output, dirty glass, and possible creosote build up in the chimney.
     
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  19. anlrolfe

    anlrolfe Honor GOD, Country and Corps

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    I've got a little Jotul 602CB. No powerhouse and frequent feeder but it's small size helps it come up to temp quicker that larger stoves. As mentioned above dry, seasoned wood cut a little short. My 16" stove gets 12-14" wood. It's amazing to see as much or more fire along the secondaries than on the wood. Ain't wood gas amazing? Wonder why the 118CB went to a tube style secondary instead of the thick metal stair stepped plate in 602??
     
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