Dolmar 5105 constant starting issues

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I turned L and H all the way in, then 1 full turn out for L and 1.5 for H. My inline tester lights with each pull. Seems coil is good. Per normal, 2nd pull on choke i heard it turn. Switched to run, no start after 5 pulls. Can smell fuel.

If i try more than 5 pulls, I'll eventually get a start then immediate stop. Some puffs of black out exhaust on occasion. This happened regardless of how i adjusted the idle


Currently plug is removed and it's upside down. Until tomorrow or Thursday more likely.



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sounds like your flooding it. try starting it, even when cold, without using the choke. flip to choke on then right back off(setting the fast idle) and pull till it starts. mine starts on first or second pull this way all the way down to 30-40*

option 2.

add a stiffer metering spring, will help hold more pressure in the tank and let less fuel push past the inlet needle flooding it when it sits unused. I have had mediocre success with this. some guys the problem is completely solved while others it varies from only flooding on extreme hot days to didnt seem to help at all. downside is that a stiffer spring changes the carb settings

option 3.

add an old school tank vent. on top of the fuel tank(yes you have to remove the tank to access it) directly in front of the trigger is an unused nipple sticking up. drill the center of it down into the tank, install a piece of fuel line and route it up into the airbox, install a grub screw. flooding issues will be gone but the down side is that it will be just like the old saws that used this style tank vent....... it will seep fuel past the grub screw when its tipped the right way with a full tank of fuel
 
sounds like your flooding it. try starting it, even when cold, without using the choke. flip to choke on then right back off(setting the fast idle) and pull till it starts. mine starts on first or second pull this way all the way down to 30-40*

option 2.

add a stiffer metering spring, will help hold more pressure in the tank and let less fuel push past the inlet needle flooding it when it sits unused. I have had mediocre success with this. some guys the problem is completely solved while others it varies from only flooding on extreme hot days to didnt seem to help at all. downside is that a stiffer spring changes the carb settings

option 3.

add an old school tank vent. on top of the fuel tank(yes you have to remove the tank to access it) directly in front of the trigger is an unused nipple sticking up. drill the center of it down into the tank, install a piece of fuel line and route it up into the airbox, install a grub screw. flooding issues will be gone but the down side is that it will be just like the old saws that used this style tank vent....... it will seep fuel past the grub screw when its tipped the right way with a full tank of fuel

I'll try starting without using choke.

I will also look into air valve as well.
 
I have looked for that thread here and am not finding it. It may have been on another saw forum that I'm following.....
I'm interested in that as well.


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Ok, just tore mine down to get some pictures. Step one is to remove the Dolmar cover on the handle bar. Then take out the remaining antivibe screws to allow more mocement. Now in pic #4 The little white plug down inside just beyond the gas cap needs to come out by using a small pick. In pic #5 is after the white plug come out there is a little red duckbill vent the comes out with a pick or small needle nose hemastat etc. Last pic is the little vent laying on gas cap with the corner nipped of using side cutters. This repair has completely solved my flooding issues.
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Thanks for those instructions. I just did that on mine, but my rubber piece was green, not red. If i remember correctly, i read that was makita part, not dolmar.

Earlier, i put plug back in and attempted cold start without choke, same issue. After a few pulls it attempted a start then died (despite whatever carb adjustments i had made). Most of time, black smoke out the exhaust.

Tomorrow I'll see if the vent trick works.

Thanks again!

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I am wondering at this point just how far off your H and L jet screws are from factory settings....

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Unless i missed it, starting point is 1 out for L and 1.5 out for H? Am i wrong?
do you have any suggestions on where to start?

Maybe I'll hook up a wire/plug based tach and see if it will get enough signal to power on and get RPM reading.
 
I'm going to have to try this fix. I really like these saws, but their ease of flooding is a royal pain. By the time I get to the 3rd one I should have it down!
 
Unless i missed it, starting point is 1 out for L and 1.5 out for H? Am i wrong?
do you have any suggestions on where to start?

Maybe I'll hook up a wire/plug based tach and see if it will get enough signal to power on and get RPM reading.

i just looked over manuals again, it says L and H base are both 1.5 out.

last night (prior to the vent "fix"), I started at 1 & 1.5. on subsequent start attempts i 1) increased idle (from 1 out) then 2) increased both L and H. regardless of what i attempted, was only able to get a crank then pretty much immediate die (did not run fast enough to me to get my handles on the trigger).
 
Be aware that I never had any issue's with mine once I got it going. If mine was going to act up and flood it was on initial/cold start. This vent fix isn't a cure all for other trouble areas.

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After a few pulls (not using choke), i got about a 1 second run. After going back to factory on L & H, and slowly increasing idle, i was able to get longer runs until i was able to get it constantly running without dying. I was then able to tune by ear so it idled and ran somewhat good. Later I'll hook up my tach and adjust carb more correctly. I was able to stop and start a few times.

The tank vent fix seemed to be the trick (at least so far).

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