Duckbill/check valve alternatives? Homelite XL

[Brent Nowell]

I have 5 duckbill valves coming from China.. a month away..

Is there anything anyone else has used as an alternative?

I have a home lite XL mini on the bench and I just finished rebuilding the carb and fixing the Oiler. Problem is the Oiler has 3 hose outlets and one requires a check valve. One hose runs to the tank and is the pickup, one is a vent for the pump. This particular hose requires a check cause if it doesn’t have one it will not pump oil, the diaphragm will be unable to build vacuum to draw oil.

I’m trying to think of something to supplement a duckbill on the end of this hose inside the tank near the top, but I’m out of ideas.

 

[sawnami]

Try Amazon.

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk

 

[HarleyT]

You might drop by a Stihl dealer and see if theirs is the same size, surely would be cheaper than that!!

 

[Old2stroke]

If you have a spare primer/purge bulb device, the little rubber thing inside it acts as two check valves, just take the bulb off and hook up to the port that checks in the right direction. Makes a good vent valve for the end of a tube, big and ugly but maybe you can make it work until the real one comes?

 

[HarleyT]

Here is the Stihl part number and price:


0747 313 6810 VALVE $0.99

 

[727sunset]

Oregon has listed in their catalogue for some time.
#07-004 and they're available.

 

[Old2stroke]

If you don't have a dealer near you and you like to improvise here is another possible solution. If you have a spare carb that has a nozzle check valve, you could punch it out of the carb and use it. You would have to remove the small rubber disc from it, then solder a small tube to it for fuel line attachment, stick the disc back in and you're good to go.

 

[Brent Nowell]

Thx guys all great info!!

 

[Brent Nowell]

Well I got a primer bulb. The check was too small to use alone so I used the whole assembly minus the bulb. Glued other nipple shut and only allowed pressure to enter the tank.

it worked, saw runs and with the new carb kit much better than before. Metering height on the diaphragm itself came way too high. I ground it down with a file but it still needs to go lower. Saw is pooling fuel it seems inside the engine.
Oiler works but barely, I’m thinking that the internal check is shot, or the diaphragm for the pump is too stiff.. I’ll have to source another one at a later time.

there are some pics of how to make a check valve work inside of a tank, hopefully others find it useful.

 

[Old2stroke]

I ground it down with a file but it still needs to go lower. Saw is pooling fuel it seems inside the engine.

You're not filing down the button on the diaphragm disc that operates the control lever are you?

 

[Brent Nowell]

You're not filing down the button on the diaphragm disc that operates the control lever are you?

I had no choice, the new one is 1/8 higher than the old.

 

[hamish]

Husqvarna 530026119.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

I'll have to double check, but the little duck valves in the Poulan (plastic models) fuel caps looked pretty close.

 

[Old2stroke]

I had no choice, the new one is 1/8 higher than the old.

Sounds like the kit had the wrong diaphragm, usually there would be very minor differences that could be compensated for by just readjusting the height of the inlet control lever.

 

[Brent Nowell]

Sounds like the kit had the wrong diaphragm, usually there would be very minor differences that could be compensated for by just readjusting the height of the inlet control lever.

Yes I hear you, I decided to make it work. Not much room in this particular float chamber for adjustment either.