Dump trailer decisions

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if you are planning on hauling any soils, get the trailetr that has the best dump angle. Wet soils not moving area a pain. I dont bother hauling soils, generally speaking, a three or four yard load of soli is two minutes work with my Skidder and not enough anyway.... I call a dump truck for a full load- and that takes a half hour to grade out at the most. I haul debris and const materails, and of cousre my machine.
 
I have a Bri-Mar 7x12 deck-over. 10k GVWR (9,990 actually - no CDL issues) I tow it with an F250. Weighs 2,800-lbs. empty leaving a 7,200-lb. payload. It has one single-stage lift cylinder. Plenty strong and stable. It has 20" fully removable sides & tailgate. With the sides off and the stake pockets and rub rails it makes a nice log hauler. I use an extra 2x12 on the front and sides when delivering firewood. Easily holds a full cord without stacking. With the 2x12's it holds over 8 cubic yards of light material like mulch or chips. Without the 2x12's it holds 5.4 cubic yards level (more if heaped).

I like the deck-over style because it keeps the overall width of the trailer narrow. With a full 86" inside width it is still narrower than my mirrors and fits anywhere the truck will fit. The tire width is the same as the truck. It trails very well.

I don't like the tailgate I have. It's 2-way (drop down or dump through). I never use the dump through and when dropped down (level with the deck) it hits the ground when the body is raised all the way up (45-deg.).

Barn doors are an option, but not with the removable sides. Bri-Mar offers hot-dipped galvanizing as an option. They do not offer ramps as an option on their deck-over trailers. Current (2014) m.s.r.p. is ~$6,500.00
 
I have not had anything hot dipped but my dad's former boss and good friend has. Several years ago I looked into building a dumping flatbed (or hook lift flat bed) for my gmc 6500. Never have got around to it but did contact the company in Chicago about doing it. If I recall it was 500$ to do a flat bed (1.5 years ago). It did not have to be sandblasted as they put it into an acid(or alkali dip) first which removed standard paints, light rust, dirt and such. Would not remove epoxy, powder coating, nor welding slag. They were extremely adamant about no sealed cavities/tubing. The reason is that the dipping tank is at 700 degrees (causes the warping of thin metal mentioned earlier) and capped tubing can expand and blow out the welded seams or caps. When the air bubble hits the surface it send 700 degree molten zinc every where. Major safety hazard.
 
I really appreciate all the info you guys are throwing my way. However, something happened today that really surprised me. The guy I was supposed to buy the dump trailer from a few weeks ago called me out of the blue. He asked if I was still interested. I thought for sure he sold it out from under me, but I guess he didn't.

At this point, I've pretty much talked myself into a new trailer. The thing is, he want $1200 less then any other used dump trailer I've ever seen listed. At that price, I'm going to have to take a chance on it.

If everything goes well tomorrow, I'll post some pics of this gem.

Thanks again for the info. I'm sure I'll end up getting a new one someday. So this all goes in the research column for now.
 
Well here she is. It's a real Jem that's for sure! In a way, I'm glad it worked out the way it did. I have a dump trailer I'm not afraid to actually use and abuse, and I got it for a 1/3 of the price of a new one.

Thanks again for all the input.
 
A lot of the questions you are asking are just plain personal preference or use issues, I know what mine are but that likely doesnt fit you or your usage. As for new VS used you are right on, 5 year old half rotted trailers are the worst buy in dump trailers. A good thing to do is to resist the temptation to take it out on the salt to make $50 or spend whatever it takes to get it undercoated. I own 5 trailers now and not one of them goes on the road while they are white with salt, I take some ribbing for that but the oldest is 12 years old now and not rotted out in any way. Building trailers is a darned competitive business and with the bulk of them are sold to people who look at 3 things, Price, how long and GVW in that order. Thus the Mfgs have to cheapen everything in order to get the price to where it ends with 999 instead of 125 if you get my drift? SO, the axle upgrade option is always a good one. There has been a lot of BS posted on hoist type and I have set back and kept my trap shut but truth of the matter is just because buyer A has hoist type B and it wont raise his loads that does not speak about the hoist type! What it does speak about is how much they cheapened the trailer for the price shoppers. Either type hoist, if properly engineered will easily raise any load you should be hauling. The real differences are that the scissor type hoist helps stabilize the bed when dumping a non-centered load or your not quite level. The dial cylinder types do not. When properly engineered the builder will add extra stiffness to the bed when using a twin cylinder lift and the cost difference become moot. The absolute worst combination would be a dual cylinder hoist under a flimsy dump body. You wont know it until you haul a load of stone that didn't get dumped in the middle. The light side will raise 2' before the other it finally raises and dumps allright but when you let it back down one side of the bed remains 6" off the frame. You are doing the right thing with your thought process, look, feel and use your common sense before buying, seldom is the cheapest trailer the best buy/

I have a 7x12 single cylinder Brimar.I thought of selling it and jumping up to a 12k trailer with twin cylinder.Never thought about the trailer tweaking like you said.
 
Looks like a decent trailer. Looks like 6 bolt axles so I am guessing 10K gvw. Should work great for wood. I would be real careful if hauling rock or dirt. They are a lot denser and can overload a dump trailer real easy. Which dump type does it have? Scissor or straight cylinders?

We had to go to a deck over to get something wide enough for our skidsteer. With a 14' long deck we can just get it in the box. With 7 ' ramps loading is not an issue.
 
It's got 2 straight cylinders, and it's only a 12'er. It's already coming in handy. Even the wife, who thought we didn't even need one, can see its making itself useful.
 
It's got 2 straight cylinders, and it's only a 12'er. It's already coming in handy. Even the wife, who thought we didn't even need one, can see its making itself useful.

Yessir having a dump trailer around is like having another arm. Only problem I have had is dealing with the borrowers. Pintle type hitch on mine took care of part of them but then you have the "well I was kinda wanting to borrow your truck too" crowd Grrrr!!:mad:. Have to admit that dump trailer borrower wannabes have been less frequent than the skid steer borrowers,,,,, NO!:mad:
 
Can I borrow your dump trailer, skid steer, and truck!:p

When I was working as a mech at a case/ih dealer we would borrow tools from each other but had a rule of three. If you borrowed three times you were cut off and had to buy your own. If a customer came in and wanted to borrow a tool one mech would ask seriously if he could borrow the mans wife for an evening of fun. Stopped them dead in their tracks 99% of the time. Scary part was the 1% that was ok with it.:eek:
 
Actually is is easier (and safer :)) than all that.
I simply ask if they have the funds to replace the rig if something happens. 95% of the time the answer is no and to that I say, Neither do I and that's why your not borrowing it, For the 5% who say yes I do have the funds the answer is "then do like I did and invest in one for yourself"

Yes folks, I am a no tool loaning A hole. If you dont like no for an answer, how about _____ ( your own favorite explicative here) NO!
 
Hahaha. A couple of months ago my buddy was bragging about how he was going to buy a new goose neck equipment trailer so no one could borrow it. I showed him by going out and buying a F350 with a goose neck hitch!
 
I just upgraded from a bumper 14' dump trailer to an 18' dump. Love the extra volume. I wanted to make less trips. I thought about the deck over but didn't know how it would work for me. I thought the shorter 18" sides would be to small. If I added side boards I would not be able to lift up the fold down sides. Well the 18' trailer is much heavier (6500lbs) to pull so I upgraded from a Dodge 2500 and 3500 to a Dodge Ram 5500 with dump box and fold down sides. I am liking the fold down side on the 11' dump bed. Very easy loading with the flip down sides. If I fill both truck and trailer I can haul a massive amount of logs. Biggest so far was 14k lbs of wood in one load with room to spare. Total weight was 33,000 lbs. The 18' triple axel does have a up graded 15k hoist. Best thing I did for my dump trailer was to get a portable wireless backup camera. Makes hooking up to the trailer simple. I also added an electric jack. Costly but I like it.
 
Best thing I did for my dump trailer was to get a portable wireless backup camera. Makes hooking up to the trailer simple. I also added an electric jack. Costly but I like it.

Wish it had been my idea but I have a simple low tech fix for when I have to hook/unhook several times a day. 2 pieces of 2x4 about a foot long screwed together into an "L" shape. I keep one in the tongue of each of my bumper pull trailers. Before unhooking I place it behind and outside of the left rear truck tire. I run the mirror down when backing up and back right into place. Getting in and out of the truck 3 times to hitch the trailer isnt a big deal at 7AM but after a long hard one it can be a bee-yitch at 4PM,,:mad:
 
The backup camera is the way to go for single person hookup. I've had one on my trucks for 7-8 years now.
Mine is now hooked up to the park light (not the backup light) in the rear of the truck box and the receiver is portable if needed.
I have it set up that way so, if I need to, I can look at what's happening behind me by just clicking it on, even while driving forward, then putting the park light switch on. It is also infrared so it "sees in the dark" quite well.
I run my trailers behind an F250.
My dump trailer is hydraulic brake so most anybody "could" pull it but I don't lend my 12,000lb 2 5/16" ball mount so nobody asks anymore.
 
I thought I had a used dump trailer locked down a few weeks ago, but the guy wanted to play games. So the search continues.

I've been looking for a used one, but everyone seems to think that their ratted out, 10 yr old, rusty, leaking, worn out trailer is worth $1000 less then new.

The more I look, the better a new one seems.

I'll be bumper pulling it with a 3/4 ton Dodge w/a Cummins. I'll be using it for more than firewood.

I'm leaning towards a Load Trail 14', 14,000 lbs, scissor lift, 2' sides with stake pockets, dexter axles, ramps, tarp, 2 way charger, 3 way doors, 10 ga floor and walls, I beam frame.

Anything listed could be changed if there's reason, and that's why I'm asking. I don't want to get one and wish I would've done something different. So here's a couple things I'm not sure about.

1. Should I spend a little bit more and get a 16'er? I don't want to kick myself over 2' and a couple hundred dollars.

2. Deck over or Low pro? I'm really leaning towards a deck over. I know it's higher with a steeper loading angle for the skidder or ztr, but it seems like the deck over comes with 7' ramps instead of 6'ers. If it's to steep, I could lift the bed a little to make the angle better. The good part is being able to side load attachments, pallets, or whatever. They also have better ground clearance when pulling off road. Is there a down side?

3. Am I making the right decision going with a scissor lift over the twin rams? I've seen a few trailers with the twin rams stall out at the beginning of the lift. It seems like the geometry is wrong. I don't have experience with a scissor lift, but I haven't read anything bad about them. Most people say they're great all around.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Any insight or suggestions are welcome.
I run into the same problem trying to find a used dump trailer so I just got a new one Idon't need it that much but it payed for it's self 3 times over just using it part time. some tomes i leave it loaded with bags of firewood ready to go in a pinch. If somebodys got used equipment for sale it proble needs repaired.
 
Yeah but a dump truck is a costly vehicle to maintain, plate, and insure. Than you still have to buy an equipment trailer to put your loader on. Dump trailers are very versatile, I believe that's why they hold their value so well. Many people have a use for one.
When it comes to hooking up a dump trailer I have a 1999 one ton with a two axle trailer hooked to it all the time. A 250 hooked to the dump trailer all the time. A 550 that I hook to my tilt trailer some times. I take it I like ford. All my firewood equipment is Wood Splitters out of Rockford Illinois my tractor is a Massy My fork lift is a Cat. Have three log splitters a 20 electric A 20 three point and a 30 ton three point. I like my electric best of all. It's inside were I have heat and AC.
 
I run into the same problem trying to find a used dump trailer so I just got a new one Idon't need it that much but it payed for it's self 3 times over just using it part time. some tomes i leave it loaded with bags of firewood ready to go in a pinch. If somebodys got used equipment for sale it proble needs repaired.
It cost me $145.00 for a load of gravel delivered and dump not spread. My wife wants me eat lunch with her in town. I take the 250 and dump trailer to town get a load of gravel for $30.00 dollars. I bring it back home and somebody pays me a $100.00 dollars to dump and spread. On firewood I call my customers see if they need firewood I deliver even if I have to go get a part. I call my store customers if they are low on bundled firewood and do the same thing. The price of fuel you have to work both ends Just info take it or forget it.
 
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