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Echo 2511 T doesn't richen up

yohyatt

yohyatt

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Jan 6, 2011
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gold run CA
So I opened up the muffler and pulled the limiter caps off, and I'm not noticing the RPMs come down when I back out the H screw.

I took to a friends house with a tach and his tach seemed to be reading 2x (maybe for a 4x), so we couldn't get a good read on the rpms, so we turned in the screw all the way -it would barely run naturally, and then started backing it out, and once it got up to high RPM, maybe a turn out or so, it wouldn't come back down and seem to richen up. Even with 6-8 turns out.

Anyone else have this experience or know what's going on?
 
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yohyatt

yohyatt

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gold run CA
Ans. Only if you open up the low speed setscrew. That drops the idle as it fattens up and runs rich.

I suggest that you go back to the factory carb setscrew settings and tell us what is wrong then. Why was the muffler even involved?
Im sorry - I meant the RPMs should drop when richening up the H screw, not the idle. I have no idea where the factory settings are, and it appears a few other folks on this forum don't know the settings and aren't getting results from backing out the H.

What do you mean why was the muffler involved? it's a tiny hole and the saw felt like it could breath better, like most saws, no?
 
NSEric

NSEric

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How does it cut?
Those little saws scream in the videos I've seen of them, it maybe rich enough.
The crappy 35cc homelite I ported revved 13500 no matter how fat I set the high, it would stall out when you let off from being too rich but still revved the same, it was weird I think I went too far porting it lol.
My 25cc Chinese top handle barley slows down when richened up, there's only a 1000rpm difference between super rich and too lean but you can hear the difference.
 
ray benson

ray benson

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Im sorry - I meant the RPMs should drop when richening up the H screw, not the idle. I have no idea where the factory settings are, and it appears a few other folks on this forum don't know the settings and aren't getting results from backing out the H.

What do you mean why was the muffler involved? it's a tiny hole and the saw felt like it could breath better, like most saws, no?
Carburetor adjustment
Initial setting
H mixture needle turn out 1 3/4
L mixture needle turn out 2 3/4
 
NeSurfcaster

NeSurfcaster

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I'm interested in hearing how you make out. I'm on the fence about modding the muffler and pulling the limiters on my new 2511t. Mines stock still and it won't 4 stroke at all even tho it's maxed out on the carb limiter. So mines already too lean and obviously I can't mod the muffler if there isn't any more adjustment on the carb screws once the red limiter is removed. I watched "human's" video on the 2511t and he didn't seem to have any problems modding the muffler and carb adjustment after removing limiters. He would of said something in the video if he couldn't adjust the carb properly after removing the limiters. So please report back
 
Ketchup

Ketchup

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If your saw isn't able to get to a point where it runs slightly rich then the limiters are probably set incorrectly. Removing them makes the saw easier to tune, but voids your warranty.

I'm not trying to be an ass, but it kind of sounds like you're turning the wrong direction. Turning IN (clockwise) closes down the fuel circuit, creating a leaner mix. Turning OUT (counter clockwise) opens the circuit and allows more fuel through, creating a richer mix.

With the limiters removed you should be able to richen the saw until it dies or the needles fall out of the carb. If you open up the muffler, delimit the carb too.

My 2511t needed re-tuned after the MM, but returned to idle without issue. The only issues I have had are needing to tune somewhat regularly and not getting the rpm as high as I want.

The OP's problem doesn't seem like an H issue. Hopefully going through the factory setting procedure will sort it out because it seems the T or L is the root of the problem, if not dirt in the carb or an air leak.
 
yohyatt

yohyatt

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Jan 6, 2011
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gold run CA
Ran at factory settings, plus 1/8 turn rich on H, did that thing I read on another post where it bogs on blip after it comes down out of a cut and idles. Runs Ok in the cut though, so will be throwing a tach on it later this week and will report back.

Pics of the MM>
 

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yohyatt

yohyatt

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Jan 6, 2011
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gold run CA
Glad to hear it is getting sorted. Do you have a link to other post you're talking about?
Set it by the factory recommendations - Turning L, then idle, then L, then H - with a tach. worked fine and the stutter went away. Checked H setting, it was only 1.5 turns out - and running 13200 ish. so leaner than the "factory" settings by screw turns, but set fine by rpm. I didn't turn the H open a lot to see how much the rpm would drop, that would have been good to see at least - so sorry for not having that data point. but try 1.5 turns with a MM and you might be good.
 
Colt Marlington

Colt Marlington

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I probably got 20 or more tanks through mine and haven't touched a thing on it.

Runs great.

And now that it's getting broken in, pops on the first pull cold start.

Real sweet little saw.
 
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