Echo 355T

[WesternSaw]

Going to pick up a n Echo 355 T my mind is made up . Not entirely sure what the factory bar is like but have heard it's not the greatest nor is the chain ,and some say change the sprocket out as well .
So you fellas in the know what do you recommend for an aftermarket bar and chain and sprocket ? Any other ideas would be appreciated !
Thanks !
Western Saw

 

[Woodanhor]

Just me I'd try it out first see how it cuts
Make sure its not to lean out of the box a good dealer does it as part of set up

 

[Franny K]

You are not getting much suggestions for an arborist saw on an arborist site.
If you decided on the Echo 355t and are asking about the sprocket I suppose you are content with staying with a 6 tooth spur. If you do find a rim drive kit as one might expect for an Echo that could be used for carving post who offers it and the part #.

Really the choice is a 7 or 9 tooth nose, or perhaps a hard nose bar. Since you asked for suggestions, get a 44 drive link 0.043 gauge Stihl bar and modify to fit. Use 61pmm3 chain from Stihl on that. I have experimented with this bar and chain and it really is as stated in Stihl literature for professional plunge cutting. Also get a bar and chain combo made by Oregon 62 drive link 18" called length. I don't think these come as bar only and are the low grade/economy kind but are pretty light as they are skinny and have a 7 tooth nose. Exaclty what other bars you might have I don't know.

 

[esean]

Might try Stihl PS or PS3 chain. I'm running the factory sprocket and 14" bar on a muffler-modded rear-handled version (CS-361P) doing forestry work (mostly felling <12" hardwoods) and don't see a reason to change bar or sprocket. I'm no arborist, so I don't know if narrower gauge chain would have any advantages while trimming or other arborist work.

 

[WesternSaw]

You are not getting much suggestions for an arborist saw on an arborist site.
If you decided on the Echo 355t and are asking about the sprocket I suppose you are content with staying with a 6 tooth spur. If you do find a rim drive kit as one might expect for an Echo that could be used for carving post who offers it and the part #.

Really the choice is a 7 or 9 tooth nose, or perhaps a hard nose bar. Since you asked for suggestions, get a 44 drive link 0.043 gauge Stihl bar and modify to fit. Use 61pmm3 chain from Stihl on that. I have experimented with this bar and chain and it really is as stated in Stihl literature for professional plunge cutting. Also get a bar and chain combo made by Oregon 62 drive link 18" called length. I don't think these come as bar only and are the low grade/economy kind but are pretty light as they are skinny and have a 7 tooth nose. Exaclty what other bars you might have I don't know.

Thank You for the detailed reply Franny ! Yes I thought the pros would be all over this question LOL !
WesternSaw

 

[WesternSaw]

Might try Stihl PS or PS3 chain. I'm running the factory sprocket and 14" bar on a muffler-modded rear-handled version (CS-361P) doing forestry work (mostly felling <12" hardwoods) and don't see a reason to change bar or sprocket. I'm no arborist, so I don't know if narrower gauge chain would have any advantages while trimming or other arborist work.

Thanks Esean ! I see on You Tube quite a few fellas muffler mod these saws and seem to get a little more power out of them . I don’t know how to do that but at least one fella had a small pipe exiting the plastic. I would think this should wait until the warranty is over .

 

[Wood Doctor]

Here's a simple muff mod I did on an Echo 355T that worked very well. That's the spark screen cover:

 

[esean]

That's pretty much what I did too. The 355T muffler is an open can, so enlarging the outlet is all that's needed. My 361P had a cat, so I picked up a used 355T muffler and saved the original. Don't forget to adjust the carb after opening the exhaust.

 

[Ketchup]

355t should be fine with the standard 3/8lp .050 14”. If you want a b&c with more control (one hand cuts) and precision, mod a Stihl 14” 3/8lp .043 (with the slightly smaller sprocket nose). The trade off is speed. .050 cuts faster. I like the .043 on a saw that does pruning and some removals. My 35cc top handles mostly do removals, so I run .050. I buy Woodland pro chains from Baileys and they seem to skip and chatter less. Could be my imagination though. Stihl chain is also good.

Definitely mod the muffler. If you’re waiting through the warranty period, pulling the screen will give some gains. You can put it back in when you take it in for warranty issues.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

At the very least get a different chain, muff mod, and tune the carb. There's also some random pieces of plastic in the intake box that I removed to get some better flow in there...not sure how much that helped really.

The chain that came on mine had really bad chatter. Luckily I threw it cleaning up a face cut and it kinked up so I bought some Stihl chains to replace it.

I have no idea how many hours I have on it at this point, but I enjoy it as a climbing saw as it sits. The bar isn't as good as a Stihl, but I wouldn't throw it away without using it up unless you know you want a different chain type right off the bat.

 

[WesternSaw]

I think that I saw a YouTube vid where the muffler heats up quite a bit (Duh)
and was melting the plastic the covers it . Has this been the case with any of your 355t. ?
Thanks
WesternSaw

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I think that I saw a YouTube vid where the muffler heats up quite a bit (Duh)
and was melting the plastic the covers it . Has this been the case with any of your 355t. ?
Thanks
WesternSaw

I haven't seen that issue personally. I generally turn mine off between cuts though and I only use mine climbing, so I might not get mine hot enough for long enough.

No idea how hot exhaust gasses are on these little saws, however, PA6(nylon) which is what the case on the 355T is made of, has a melting point of about 430ºF. It is glass fiber reinforced though, so not sure if that increases or decreases the melting point of the nylon. I would imagine it would help it maintain it's shape if it does reach melting point though.

 

[WesternSaw]

I haven't seen that issue personally. I generally turn mine off between cuts though and I only use mine climbing, so I might not get mine hot enough for long enough.

No idea how hot exhaust gasses are on these little saws, however, PA6(nylon) which is what the case on the 355T is made of, has a melting point of about 430ºF. It is glass fiber reinforced though, so not sure if that increases or decreases the melting point of the nylon. I would imagine it would help it maintain it's shape if it does reach melting point though.

Thanks Echo !
WesternSaw

 

[Ketchup]

If you aim your Muffler Mod hole wrong or make it too big it will melt the plastic muffler shield. The plastic tends to bang on limbs and break anyway. Expect to replace it a few times during the life of the saw.

 

[WesternSaw]

So I picked up the saw the other day seems like a real handy unit . The dealer did the pre inspection and set it up . It has the 16 inch bar on it #16AOES3757 A7. Oregon Chain .050 57 DL. 3/8. LP. Now to try it out But First a few questions .
I m going to actually try to start to sharpen my own chains
Im going to try a small Husqvarna or Stihl roller file guide .
Will they work on what I think is a Low Pitch chain ?
Is a 5/32 file the correct file for the above mentioned chain ?
Thank You !
WesternSaw

 

[pioneerguy600]

Bump.

 

[Tony ray]

Does Oregon make the bars for Echo saws.? Some pick on the chain they come with but its a Oregon chain.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

yeah oregon does, we have been replacing the echo bars as they need it with oregon, both work well.

 

[Ketchup]

5/32” is the correct file. I find Oregon chain chatters a lot on our 200t/201t saws as well. The wood makes the biggest difference though.