Echo bar fit Husqvarna?

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I suspect you would be filing out the bar slot and possibly cutting an oil channel in the bar. I have never done that specific swap but the husky uses the large husky mount, and the echo uses a mount.mowe like the small husky mount.
I generally just take the saw and the bar I want to use and compare and see what I'm gonna need to do to make it work.
 
The bar slot is significantly smaller on the echo bar and the adjuster holes may or may not line up.

If you are looking to run the same bar on both saws, get the bar adaptors from Homelite410 and run a Stihl bar on all of your saws.
 
The bar slot is significantly smaller on the echo bar and the adjuster holes may or may not line up.

If you are looking to run the same bar on both saws, get the bar adaptors from Homelite410 and run a Stihl bar on all of your saws.
Comparing my Husqvarna 353 or 350 with an Echo 3900, the bar slot seems to be the same for both but the tension adjuster for the Husqvarna will not work with the Echo bar and vice versa. Bar oiling would likely not work either. Amazing how MFGs make sure that cross-compatibility with another's parts is not the same.
 
I run Huskys and Echos. Echo (d176) bars wont fit over the Husky (d009) studs without a little file work. The husky bar will fit over the echo studs but there's too much play. I made an adapter out of a recoil spring but I've since gave up on that. Also, echo bars use shorter chains than the same length husky bars. In the end, it was just easier for me to buy different bars and chains for each brand. The price of decent bars these days isn't too bad, just try to avoid the name brand mark up and go with an Oregon.

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Comparing my Husqvarna 353 or 350 with an Echo 3900, the bar slot seems to be the same for both but the tension adjuster for the Husqvarna will not work with the Echo bar and vice versa. Bar oiling would likely not work either. Amazing how MFGs make sure that cross-compatibility with another's parts is not the same.
When you are talking 350/353 pattern that’s small mount which is a totally different ball game. The large mount are similar and Stihl with adaptor works for either.
 
When you are talking 350/353 pattern that’s small mount which is a totally different ball game. The large mount are similar and Stihl with adaptor works for either.
Yes, but both have to work -- the bar mount and the oiler alignment. Lose either one, and the bars are then not interchangeable. I am sure you are aware of that. Stihl even made MS290 bars that did not work with MS290 saws that they already sold because the saw's oiler slot did not align with the bar:
 

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Yes, but both have to work -- the bar mount and the oiler alignment. Lose either one, and the bars are then not interchangeable. I am sure you are aware of that. Stihl even made MS290 bars that did not work with MS290 saws that they already sold because the saw's oiler slot did not align with the bar:
You are absolutely correct on that.
 
Mac's on their D276 design I believe.

Mac D276 link

See how it shows the dotted lines going up from the tensioner holes.
 
Which mount uses the adjustment holes as oiler holes as well?
The Homelite D096/D196 and McC/Echo D176/276 bars are identical and both feed through the adjuster. Only difference is the bar groove size and adjuster hole size/shape

FWIW a Homelite saw will oil through the actual oil hole on a Stihl bar.
 
Yes, but both have to work -- the bar mount and the oiler alignment. Lose either one, and the bars are then not interchangeable. I am sure you are aware of that. Stihl even made MS290 bars that did not work with MS290 saws that they already sold because the saw's oiler slot did not align with the bar:

Old thread but this on l hole Problem is EXACTLY what I've got a cure for.
Anyone looking at the photo can clearly see the oil chain supply hole is not lined up with the imprint where the bar mates with the chainsaw oil supply.
I've cured this problem by Simply drilling another hole.
Recently, I purchased an Oregon bar chain combo for my Sthil 029 which was sold as a bolt on and cut.
If I'd taken a photo I'd look the same as this photo.
The trick I use is to start with a drill bit a tad smaller than the bar oil supply hole. Drill in a way that allows the new hole to barely lap into the upper hole. STOP short and DO NOT drill to deep. Then using a Dremel tool mate the two holes.
Test, and adjust hole as needed.
In fact there are some saws that simply don't have oil adjustments.
I achieve good oil flow by altering bar oil supply holes. When flush cutting stumps I want to flood my bars and will add oil between gas fills. Just have to be aware that stopping after a cut and checking the oil. Below is a photo of a tension hole / oil supply hole altered for my Echo cs352.IMG_20200125_215250.jpg
 

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