Check your inbox for service manual, and link to operators manual and ipl.
Requests are usually in the chainsaw stickies, beg for manual thread
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/page-1521
Echo CS-2511T
- Thread starter 2Strokn
- Start date
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Requests are usually in the chainsaw stickies, beg for manual thread
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/page-1521
Thanks Ray
.
eye.heart.trees
arborjunky
Would LOVE to hear anything you can tell me about this tuning!! I stopped using my tach as tuning-by-ear has been giving far better results for me (just use tach to ensure not >maxRPM) however after doing a muffler mod (w/ an increased air-take mod) i didn't re-tune it seemed to sound fine, I've only used it 1 job (it's apart again for other reasons) but figure to re-tune it since it's been modded but since my only apprroach will be "turn H&L all the way in, turn Idle a random ~1-2 turns out, then work from Idle&L to H, ensure all quick pickup/no stall-outs and that max-RPM is ~90-95% factory-spec - but not over!" Any, like ANY, advice you can give on tuning after mods would be greatly appreciated, am guessing I can get more power from minor tuning - maybe even from fuel modification? Am using 95oct husqvarna fuel now, maybe an octane booster could be of use?
eye.heart.trees
arborjunky
I know it's been >1yr so maybe lithium saws are in your sites now (couldn't blame you, am expecting/hoping my next real saw purchase will be a lithium husq or echo model) but would say that the $90-140 'scheppach csp2540' (the badging on mine) / jon cutter / un-labelled 25cc/10-12" 7lbs saws are awesome, I'm going to order a 2nd soon so I can modify mine more aggressively and get hard #'s for pre/post mods but they're all over amazon/ebay I couldn't suggest them higher I mean for that price you could get 2 and put great bar/chain setups on them (my version, the 'scheppach csp2540' which is 140 shipped, came w/ an Oregon bar&chain 91p type which was nice although @10" I have it in the parts drawer, using instead a 12" Echo bar and even though I removed the 1.5" deep front-bumper on the saw - for more cutting-length - and have that 12" bar, I can still just *bury* it in fact I only call for my 33cc/16" when something's over 11.75" lol otherwise I never let of mine in 8mo it's always been my most-used!! And you mention chains...unsure why you've got a chain-longevity problem, is it possible you're keeping them too-tight? I dunno if it's 'beneath you' but walmart has 2-packs of "tri-link" chains for $15 for 12"'s and $22 for 16"'s, I know they're not great but I'll take a new chain over a duller-but-better chain anyday yknow? I know I should sharpen on-site but in-practice I've found guys I work for and even clients view it as you doing 'chainsaw maintenance' while you should be working I've almost given-up entirely I think I'll simply sharpen 2-3 chains at a time for each of my saws so I can always show-up with 3 fresh chains for each powerhead that should be fine for most gigs I've ever had
No knowledge of the Asian budget top handles, but I would rather have a dead one walk in the door than buy one and be disappointed.
The 1/4” chain is just smaller so it files away faster than a larger chain. Personally I think it’s worth the finer cut and smaller nose bar.
The 150t’s have turned out to be fickle on repairs. We moved on to 2511t and haven’t looked back.
The 1/4” chain is just smaller so it files away faster than a larger chain. Personally I think it’s worth the finer cut and smaller nose bar.
The 150t’s have turned out to be fickle on repairs. We moved on to 2511t and haven’t looked back.
Many people aren't "above" using something from Walmart, but they choose not to support china as much as possible with their purchases. However, I realize many people don't have much of a choice since Walmarts preditorial practices have shut down all the local stores they previously had prior to Walmart swooping in to save the day. I was quite please with Greenville Mi telling them they could not build within the city limits(hometown of Meijer, a now regional store who Walmart openly threatened to build anywhere they did), of course they just built on the other side of the city limitsI know it's been >1yr so maybe lithium saws are in your sites now (couldn't blame you, am expecting/hoping my next real saw purchase will be a lithium husq or echo model) but would say that the $90-140 'scheppach csp2540' (the badging on mine) / jon cutter / un-labelled 25cc/10-12" 7lbs saws are awesome, I'm going to order a 2nd soon so I can modify mine more aggressively and get hard #'s for pre/post mods but they're all over amazon/ebay I couldn't suggest them higher I mean for that price you could get 2 and put great bar/chain setups on them (my version, the 'scheppach csp2540' which is 140 shipped, came w/ an Oregon bar&chain 91p type which was nice although @10" I have it in the parts drawer, using instead a 12" Echo bar and even though I removed the 1.5" deep front-bumper on the saw - for more cutting-length - and have that 12" bar, I can still just *bury* it in fact I only call for my 33cc/16" when something's over 11.75" lol otherwise I never let of mine in 8mo it's always been my most-used!! And you mention chains...unsure why you've got a chain-longevity problem, is it possible you're keeping them too-tight? I dunno if it's 'beneath you' but walmart has 2-packs of "tri-link" chains for $15 for 12"'s and $22 for 16"'s, I know they're not great but I'll take a new chain over a duller-but-better chain anyday yknow? I know I should sharpen on-site but in-practice I've found guys I work for and even clients view it as you doing 'chainsaw maintenance' while you should be working I've almost given-up entirely I think I'll simply sharpen 2-3 chains at a time for each of my saws so I can always show-up with 3 fresh chains for each powerhead that should be fine for most gigs I've ever had
.I couldn't care what a client/contractor thinks about me sharpening on site, it takes about the same time to touch up a chain every other tank than it does to change one out, especially on a top handle saw. Also running lower quality chains will increase the need to sharpen them or change them out. Personally if I rock a chain on a job I grab another saw that's set up when possible and keep cutting.
With the intake mods the carb may not need to be retuned after the muffler mod. The saw should be capable of running at higher rpms than the factory specs with the mods, but you will need to do some testing to know where it runs the strongest/most efficient. Basically since you modded it the factory specs are only a good starting point now.
Hello,
I am glad to see that this little saw has a following. I'd like to ask the more knowledgeable members a few questions.
I am going to buy the saw for trimming olive trees, and olive is a pretty hard wood. Max diameter 6 inches. It may be used in a pinch on the ground for cutting to length.
In Europe, one can buy the saw with a regular 10" bar / .050 3/8 lo-pro chain or with a 10" carving bar / .043 1/4 chain.
carving version and regular version
3/8 low profile chain is readily available, 1/4 .043 is a bit of a pain to find, but not impossible.
Given the nature of the work the saw will be doing, which combo do you suggest? Price is almost the same, the carving saw is ~30 euro more expensive.
I am glad to see that this little saw has a following. I'd like to ask the more knowledgeable members a few questions.
I am going to buy the saw for trimming olive trees, and olive is a pretty hard wood. Max diameter 6 inches. It may be used in a pinch on the ground for cutting to length.
In Europe, one can buy the saw with a regular 10" bar / .050 3/8 lo-pro chain or with a 10" carving bar / .043 1/4 chain.
carving version and regular version
3/8 low profile chain is readily available, 1/4 .043 is a bit of a pain to find, but not impossible.
Given the nature of the work the saw will be doing, which combo do you suggest? Price is almost the same, the carving saw is ~30 euro more expensive.
Get it set up with 3/8 lo pro chain, sprocket & maybe worm gear too??? Sure 1/4'' is smooth but the chain is a pain to sharpen, its expensive, often hard to source and the cutters get filed/ground away in no time. 3/8L/P can be a bit rough but can be tuned/detuned for smoother operation. That's what I have done & pleased I did.
100% disagree. The 1/4” makes a much smoother and CONTROLLED cut. If the nose of the bar has a smaller diameter, all the better.
The 3/8lp will chatter in the cut and will jump and skate more easily at the start of the cut. It’s also easier to damage the tree with excess follow through. If making many small cuts close to the branch collar, the 3/8lp will result in a sloppier over all prune.
It’s true that the 1/4” chain wears out quickly if filed agressively. It is a more delicate process to file. The files must be sharp. And 1/4” chain is more expensive. But the overall performance of the tool is better. It will eliminate 50% of your hand saw work.
The 3/8lp will chatter in the cut and will jump and skate more easily at the start of the cut. It’s also easier to damage the tree with excess follow through. If making many small cuts close to the branch collar, the 3/8lp will result in a sloppier over all prune.
It’s true that the 1/4” chain wears out quickly if filed agressively. It is a more delicate process to file. The files must be sharp. And 1/4” chain is more expensive. But the overall performance of the tool is better. It will eliminate 50% of your hand saw work.
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
Stock 1/4 is better. Ported 3/8 LP is a little faster.
I picked one of these up a few weeks ago, I LOVE it! I used the stock bar and chain for less than a tank of fuel and ordered a 1/4 .043 setup. I like the 1/4 much better. Its amazing the power it has even in stock trim, although I know myself and it wont stay stock for long. Trying to give it a few months just in case I have any major failures but after that if all seems well its getting ported.
Could you file the 1/4 a little different to take a bigger bite out or do you think that would lead to other issues?
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
I’m sure they both could be filled a way to optimize cut times. But in the states the cost to fit a 1/4 setup on a 2511t isn’t the cheapest. IMO might as well have it ported and run the stock setup. Again this is geared towards how the saws come here in the states
I changed mine to a .043 3/8lp Stihl bar and chain. It came with .050 but its too big for that saw IMO.
I haven’t use my 192T since I got this one. I don’t do tree work so the 192T worked well for my needs.
I haven’t use my 192T since I got this one. I don’t do tree work so the 192T worked well for my needs.
Just a heads up, they still have the rear handle version available in the UK at a buds site here:
https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/echo-CS-2511-wes/
He will ship to the US for sumfin like £49.
https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/echo-CS-2511-wes/
He will ship to the US for sumfin like £49.
Maybe so but to some the top handles are precision tools, the quality of a job & the health of a tree can come down too chain setup. Nothing worse than lo pro skating side to side on a pole saw and jumping out of the cut. Look 1/4" performs great in tree service work. Outright cut times simply isnt always the deciding factor. I have 100ft rolls of 3/8 050 lo/pro and that is what I use. I detune the chain some to cut as smooth as possible, don't use vxl type chain. I make it work but I'd much rather use (if it existed) a lo profile .325. With 3 pole saws and about 10 top handles, I gotta keep things simple and running the same chain pitch/gauge has benefits. 1/4" is expensive and fidly, I don't want to swap grinder wheels for a few chains each day. Keeping it simple isn't perfect, its a juggling act.
We’re running 4 2511ts on 1/4” then 5 200/201t and two power poles on 3/8lp, 5 ms261s on .325, 2 ms362s and 3 372xts on 3/8” and a 395xp on 3/8 full skip. Simple it ain’t.
The worst part is how bad my coworkers are at sharpening. I caught one sawing on the 395 with a dull .325 file the other day. They really can’t tell when the file is dull and fractions scare them. Chisel angle? Forget it. They’re great guys though.
Personally, for my own climbing, I really prefer the 2511 with 1/4” and a tiny nose. I make a lot of one handed cuts in absurd contortions. I want control and accuracy above speed. For removals and precision topping the speed is more important. That’s what the 200t (or 346) is for.
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
Zero issues with the stock setup once ported. No jumping etc, just smooth cutting. That was my point. Added benefit, it cuts fast. In my 2511t build thread I have videos showing this. I bought a 1/4 setup first, then ported it and found the stock setup would have been just fine.
buttercup
Addicted to ArboristSite
You need a .043 bar on these saws, this chain might be similar to "Stihl Super SS Rallye GT Micro Nano", however it makes the same difference as going from standard 3/8 to 3/8 LP - when going to this compared to 3/8 LP.
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