Echo CS-400 Chainsaw Muffler Mods
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GTP
ArboristSite Member
I am fairly certain this set up will fit our Echos.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BCC 16 SJ50
Also this is a good set-up at a great price...
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BHC+16+EP50&catID=686
Hope this helps you feed the restaurant !!:chainsawguy:
PLMCRZY
Addicted to ArboristSite
fistpatrick
New Member
I subscribed to arboristsite just to see the slides of this mod as well.
Great job. I am currently working on mine. I just bought my CS-400 about a month ago and already ran about 3 tanks of gas through it. I can't wait to get the mod done and see how it has improved. Do I need to adjust the carb too?
If I don't will it run to lean? I believe it is running rich from the factory right now till the rings are seated.
Great job. I am currently working on mine. I just bought my CS-400 about a month ago and already ran about 3 tanks of gas through it. I can't wait to get the mod done and see how it has improved. Do I need to adjust the carb too?
If I don't will it run to lean? I believe it is running rich from the factory right now till the rings are seated.
sjp
ArboristSite Operative
the cat. in the muffler pic is real simlar to catalicit convertor yamaha was useing a while back many problems of the cat cloging and breaking down and peices geting suck in combustion chamber and doing real damage
Most are set way lean from the factory, the rev limiter will fool you into thinking it's set rich. These saws pick up a LOT with a good muff modd. Steve
fistpatrick
New Member
Well I can do a clean job on the muffler mod thanks to these pictures, but I don't know much about the carb and rev limiters. After I finish the muffler should I take it to the saw shop and have them tune the carb and make sure it isn't running to lean?
Once I do the muffler mod is it required to remove the rev limiter?
Once I do the muffler mod is it required to remove the rev limiter?
fistpatrick
New Member
limiter caps
Can anyone show pictures or know a link to a post showing this procedure?
I did the muff mod and need to tune. It will be easier for me if someone who has removed the limiter caps could give me some help. Thanks
-- never mind I figured it out. It's pretty easy --
Can anyone show pictures or know a link to a post showing this procedure?
I did the muff mod and need to tune. It will be easier for me if someone who has removed the limiter caps could give me some help. Thanks
-- never mind I figured it out. It's pretty easy --
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HLC03
ArboristSite Lurker
Chainsaw
If you look in the original team fast slides it looks like the cat was cut/drilled out kind of sloppily. When I did my mod i used a 1/2" old drill bit and a can of wd-40 and drilled as much cat-crap as i could out, then I used my dremel with a couple different metal de-burring/sanding bits and drums. Then I washed it out and went to town polishing it (the inside of the muffler that i just removed the cat from). I got it to a mirror like finish in there. I figured it might flow better based on the way engine builders port and polish everything for better flow characteristics. I'm probably being anal, but in my mind it added ten horsepower, hahahha. I would love to have that flow bench, must be a great way to measure minute changes like this. Good luck with your modding to anyone whos been following this thread. Also, I painted my muffler with about 4-5 coats of Rustoleum 1200degree paint. This junk is GARBAGE. It started to melt after the first test run of the saw, and now after the 5th or 6th job using the saw it still melts and gets saw chips stuck in the paint. There is no way that little engine is putting out over 1200 degrees on the exhaust side. I should have just sprung for the 2000 degree VHT stuff.
Adam
If you look in the original team fast slides it looks like the cat was cut/drilled out kind of sloppily. When I did my mod i used a 1/2" old drill bit and a can of wd-40 and drilled as much cat-crap as i could out, then I used my dremel with a couple different metal de-burring/sanding bits and drums. Then I washed it out and went to town polishing it (the inside of the muffler that i just removed the cat from). I got it to a mirror like finish in there. I figured it might flow better based on the way engine builders port and polish everything for better flow characteristics. I'm probably being anal, but in my mind it added ten horsepower, hahahha. I would love to have that flow bench, must be a great way to measure minute changes like this. Good luck with your modding to anyone whos been following this thread. Also, I painted my muffler with about 4-5 coats of Rustoleum 1200degree paint. This junk is GARBAGE. It started to melt after the first test run of the saw, and now after the 5th or 6th job using the saw it still melts and gets saw chips stuck in the paint. There is no way that little engine is putting out over 1200 degrees on the exhaust side. I should have just sprung for the 2000 degree VHT stuff.
Adam
BryanEx
ArboristSite Lurker
Hmmm... I've had good luck with it on my wood-fired maple syrup evaporator which runs at about 900 degrees but it's also lined with fire brick. I wonder if "stove black" would be a better choice for mufflers. It likely depends on what the muffler is actually made from for which paint is best. Just out of curiosity, what temp does a muffler get anyway?
o8f150
Tree Freak
i use the high temp engine paint from the parts store,,works good for me
In a different 2 stroke racing application we hit around 900*F EGT with an on-board temp sensor running alcohol.
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HLC03
ArboristSite Lurker
@RTK : Doesn't alcohol race fuel burn cooler than regular 93octane pump gas?
Sounds like we need someone with an inferred thermometer to find out what a chainsaws exhaust gas temperature reaches. I thought that it couldn't be more than 7 or 8 hundred degrees. But the paint on my muffler basically heats up and starts to bubble a little and if you took a screwdriver to it you could scrape the paint to the bare metal. It seems to have cured a little since running a couple tanks of 93 through it but it still heats up to the point of melting paint and getting saw chips stuck in.
Adam:greenchainsaw:
Sounds like we need someone with an inferred thermometer to find out what a chainsaws exhaust gas temperature reaches. I thought that it couldn't be more than 7 or 8 hundred degrees. But the paint on my muffler basically heats up and starts to bubble a little and if you took a screwdriver to it you could scrape the paint to the bare metal. It seems to have cured a little since running a couple tanks of 93 through it but it still heats up to the point of melting paint and getting saw chips stuck in.
Adam:greenchainsaw:
Alcohol runs a little cooler, but I doubt the muffler temp runs much over that ..........Never temp'd a muffler on a saw, done a few CHT's though. In our application we use EGT to tune our racing 2 strokes not CHT
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Exhaust temp on snowmobiles are around 1100, they start melting down when hitting 1200 to 1300. Steve
fistpatrick
New Member
Adam, you just put it on to thick, to many coats. I used the same paint on my CS-400 and it works great. I only did 2 very light coats. My buddy did a bunch of coats on his and has the same problem.
HLC03
ArboristSite Lurker
well no 5hit? I guess this is the answer I've been looking for. I guess i should strip the muffler and start over. It doesn't look too bad, and I'm the only one who will notice but you know how that goes.
thanks for that man, i even started a egt thread and everything. i'm still a noob.
adam
BryanEx
ArboristSite Lurker
Excellent fistpatrick. I that variable never even crossed my mind but now that you mention it, I have had that issue in other situations - usually when I've tried to "use up the rest of the can".
Deer Assassin
ArboristSite Operative
looks like my new cs-400 is going to get modded for sure now
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