Echo CS2511T Carb Settings

[Jo58]

if someone has information on the maximum speed at which we can adjust the machine once the pot changed without risking a break engine, I thank him in advance.

Actualy it is set at 13500 rpm

have a lovely day everybody

 

[stubnail67]

Other

Finally a look inside nice ....very cool

 

[Cope1024]

Ordered a CS2511T from Home Depot. Should have it Wednesday.

 

[bikesandcars]

I know this is an old thread, but I had the same question as the OP.

I thought the low speed could be a little richer, the high speed seemed OK. I ran a tank through with the limiters both full rich. I was impressed with the power from the little saw but the acceleration bobbled off idle.

In the process of removing the limiter caps (via a wood screw) I lost the factory settings for mixture. I'm used to "1.5 turns out" on small engines as a starting point, that didn't work at all. I find myself several turns out on both L and H with big changes (1/4 turns) making very little impact. Is this carburetor just not sensitive to mixture adjustements or does it require much different starting points?

No muffler mod, stock saw. Any pointers for where to baseline the L and H screws for 500 ASL?

 

[bikesandcars]

I always find the answers after asking the question... Here's what I found other places here:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/echo-top-saws.335554/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/attachments/new-echo-na_carb-adj-man_071619-pdf.765367/

Settings vary a lot, but are often pretty far out. The last one I tuned out of the box at 3 1/4 L, 2 H. Sounds like your L is turned in to far. (Ketchup)

I extrapolated this from the manual
Model: CS-2511T (C70215) (C70315) (C71915)
Carburetor Type: WT-1208
Limiter Cap Removal Tool: 91075
Mixture Needle Adjustment Tool: (flat head screwdriver)
Low Mixture needle lightly seat and turn CCW: 2-3/4
High mixture needle lightly seat and turn CCW: 1-3/4
Idle speed screw: 1 turn CCW from seated
Applies to: 12” or 14” bar
Engine warmup: (note 5) 5 seconds idle - 5 seconds full throttle - 100 seconds max, 13000 rpm max
Step 2: Turn idle speed screw CW or CCW to set RPM: 4100
Step 3: Turn low mix needle CCW to reduce idle rpm: 3300
Step 5: Turn high mix needle CW or CCW to rpm: 12500 - 12700 (NOTE 4: Turn High Mix Needle CW 1/2 turn after adjusting engine to the specified WOT range.)
Final idle rpm range (chain must not move): 2800-3600
Final WOT RPM range with std bar and chain (12700-13400)
Install new limiter caps after RPM checks: P003000010

So it seems between L = 2-3/4 to 3-1/4 : H = 1-3/4 to 2 for a starting point.

 

[mountainlake]

Most new smaller Echo saws are like above + or- a little.. The CS590 is only 1/2 to 3/4 out on the high. Steve

 

[bikesandcars]

For the record, tried Ketchup's settings out and much improved over stock. Pulled much better in the wood and didn't die when I let off the throttle. I bumped the idle 1/8 turn up.

77 degree's, 700 feet ASL, completely stock saw with 1 tank through, 12" bar stock chain: 3-1/4" turns L, 2 turns H

 

[wyk]

I got mine with a ten inch .050 3/8"LP bar and chain combo but i also got a ten inch Sugi pruning bar with it. The Sugi is a .043, i got a 1.1mm chain and a .043 sprocket with her as well. I haven't ran the Sugi bar yet.

Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk

Is that the A4s Sugi chain? How did it run?
You know we now have the rear handle version available in Ireland?

 

[bikesandcars]

For the record, tried Ketchup's settings out and much improved over stock. Pulled much better in the wood and didn't die when I let off the throttle. I bumped the idle 1/8 turn up.

77 degree's, 700 feet ASL, completely stock saw with 1 tank through, 12" bar stock chain: 3-1/4" turns L, 2 turns H

I added an Oregon .043 bar and chain:
Oregon 124MLEA041 .043" Gauge 3/8" Low Pro Pitch 12" Double Guard Bar
Oregon 90PX045G Low Profile 3/8-Inch Pitch 0.043-Inch Gauge 45-Drive Link Saw Chain
I really like how this cuts. I'm just a homeowner who does my own property maintenance and volunteer side-work for friends. I wanted a smoother chain that would let the saw run. So far it's working exactly as I hoped, cuts well and impossible to make it kickback in wood. Ran a tank through with that combo.

Then I did a muffler mod: I ground the folded-over tab off and split the can (I had a non-cat muffler). In the inside of the can where the "box" is there are 3 holes in a triangle, I removed the center between them to make the hole much closer to the port size. I then welded it back together then added another exhaust hole below the original. I cut a piece of 1" conduit at an angle, bent it a bit and tacked it over the holes for a deflector. Sounds good and spins up well. Not too much louder, and I can hear it 4-stroke and clean up.

To do the muffler mod part again I would step-size drill through the can in the box area to enlarge the inner baffle then patch the outer hole with a piece of flat metal, then make some louvers below the existing exhaust port to open the outside up. Splitting the can is too much work and the can metal is really thin (.020), which was good tig practice but I'm not posting pictures for a reason. I like enlarging the interior baffle because my thoughts were it keeps the saw quieter not having a direct exit like it would if I just drilled through where the exhaust exits (making the sound waves bounce around in the can is better for sound).

Really happy with the entire combo. Ran a tank of gas through with both and much improved. I can lean on it now and it doesn't stall out. I tuned it in the wood. Funny thing is, Ketchup's settings work pretty good, I didn't change them much.

 

[bikesandcars]

Pic of inside muffler

 

[Jan Sorenson]

Hi folks...I have missed you, lol. So, picked up a CS2511T yesterday and promptly pulled the limiters. Does anyone out there know what the proper settings are? I know I'm currently running rich on both ends. The high setting does not seem very sensitive to adjustment. I'm having a hard time finding the sweet spot there. The low side is about 3/4 turn out from the "lean peak". With the current settings it likes to almost die when I let off the throttle and the RPM's drop. Then it catches and revs back up to a normal idle...sometimes. Other times it dies outright.
On the high side, it 4-strokes at such a high rpm that I can't maintain that RPM in the wood and find the sweet spot because of the decrease of RPM once load is applied. I'll keep playing with it until I get it figured out, just thought one of you might be able to get me dialed in according to your saw.
Also, is there muff mod info out there for this saw? I have not been able to find much.

Thanks,
-Steve

For what it's worth, the carb on my cs2511 started to choke and die. I thought the carb was clogged so I opened it up and cleaned it up. Bought a new carb gasket kit. I bought a new filter. Still no luck. I bought a tach to measure RPMs to adjust according the the manual specs. Still no luck. The adjustments never produced the results I was looking for, as a matter of fact, it just would not run worth beans. I disassembled the carb three time just to check to see if everything was assembled correctly. I was about to buy a new carb when I read something in the manual about cleaning the spark arrester every now and again, so I opened up the muffler cover, removed the screw that holds the arrester in, and removed the spark arrester screen. I found a solidly clogged spark arrester. Practically no flow for the exhaust. I cleaned up the spark arrester, and reassembled the muffler assembly. I did a few basic adjustments to the H and L settings, and fired up the saw. It ran like a hell cat in a fire storm. Very strong - lots of power, it purred like a kitten. I am very happy!!! So to make a long story short, if the carb does not seem to be working as expected, among the normal carb checks, clean the spark arrester. You'll be happy you did.

 

[gschwartzenberger]

Good thread - the information here really helped me out. I was setting up my new 2511t yesterday and for some reason I just had to fiddle with the carburetor before even running the saw. Now some say to use a screw to push off the limiter caps but I would never do that again as it tears things up. Anyway, I set it to 3-1/4" turns L, 2 turns H and it runs pretty dang good. Idle was at about 3,100 rpm and top end is at about 12,400. I haven't even finished the first tank of gas. I am in TN and it is summer - relatively no elevation. Throttle response was good and it ran well when cutting.

I ordered the saw from SawAgain. I've ordered Dolmar/Makita from them before - seems like a good shop. I ordered from SawAgain because you can order just a powerhead or else spec the bar and chain you want. I decided on the 14" 3/8LP 0.043 (90PX052) partly because now I can share chains with my Makita 36V saw. I pulled the spark arrestor screen before running. I'd say the saw starts and runs well. I did install an Echo bumper spike - another item easy to order from SawAgain.

I'm just a beginner climber. The Makita 36V is powerful but dang heavy and I figured I'd be safer by spending the bucks and getting the 2511t. I did consider the 355t but in the end I figured I'd be safer with the light/small saw. It cuts well enough for me but I'll give the muffler mod a try soon. Unless I see something better, I guess I'll drill through the outer and inner wall then come up with some sort of deflector (or just work the outer skin a bit). Does sound like it isn't worth the effort to split the muffler.