ArboristSite.com Sponsors


Echo Cs590 Tuning Question/ Problem

dirtcurt

dirtcurt

sawsnob
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
21
Age
56
Location
Fresno, Ca.
Hello I have a few questions tuning a Echo CS590 Timberwolf. I have a 600p, and two cs590s. I can't lean down the 590s to really clean up in the cut. One of the 590s gets close to perfect but the other 4 strokes in the cut with H needle screwed all the way in and L 3/4 out. My 600p is super simple and was lean enough to scream from the factory with limiters in. Took them out and fattened it up(limiters on the 600p were different from the 590). I had read somewhere on the internet with these same problems having to screw in H needle all the way in. Both 590s are burnt piston recovery saws with very little time on them. One blew a hole in the piston and saved the cylinder, it got a factory piston and is at 150#. The other ran a bit, then melted, tearing up cylinder pretty good. I used a Gulf piston and it too has 150# and runs better than the stock piston so far. They both idle perfect. Is this the governor? I hope not because the 600p screams compared together.

As far as well built, these are great. They are very simple to work on and the 600P just runs good.
 
Brettl

Brettl

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Dec 16, 2013
Messages
518
Age
45
Location
Wichita KS
I think maybe you're not getting replies because its kind of hard to pin down your questions.lol Have you taken the plastic limited off the H and L needles? Welcome to AS#
 
dirtcurt

dirtcurt

sawsnob
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
21
Age
56
Location
Fresno, Ca.
Sorry about the late response, I was wondering what was up with my post! I picked the saw up with a scorched piston and it looks like it must have been the first tank because it looks unused. However the limiter caps were gone and a few of the screws were over-tightened leading me think anything is possible with the saw. It however starts and idles perfectly and goes to 4 cycle pretty quickly. I have only been able to do test cuts on Pistachio which is really not a good test for loading because it's really hard wood and my chain is not set up for it. I will see if I can get a video up. I really need a actual cutting day to see how it does run in real world use. This is my first run in with a rev limit saw so it appears I need a bit of hands on education with it.
 
sawfixer

sawfixer

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 4, 2015
Messages
20
Age
55
Location
San Diego, California
I’ve dealt with this problem in my CS600P running rich after a muffler mod when the high speed jet was fully closed. Welcome to the world of “semi-fixed jet” carbs like the Walbro HDA-268, which is on the CS590s and CS600P chainsaws. I was going crazy trying get the saw to lean out in the cut but couldn’t. The semi-fixed high speed jet protects the saw and reduces warranty comebacks by reducing the possibility of an overly lean condition. The downside is since it has a fuel orifice directly in the fuel chamber, it’s also more fussy with regard to the metering lever level setting than on adjustable jet carbs. It was member Red97 in one of his postings (Echo Timberwolf 590 “H” setting) on this forum which provided me the solution. You need to replace the main nozzle/jet with Walbro PN 86-578-1 which is an adjustable jet and will allow you to fully tune the carb to your liking. You can get this nozzle from your Stihl dealer as PN 1120-121-5404 but it will cost you $11 and probably take three weeks if they don’t have it in stock (they order directly from Walbro). Red97 has a recent detailed posting on how to do this with pictures. I’ve found this part for about $8/free shipping on Ebay.
 
dirtcurt

dirtcurt

sawsnob
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
21
Age
56
Location
Fresno, Ca.
THAT"S what I was hoping was out there! Cool I will head that way and look on Ebay for the parts. I would have never searched and found that post. Thanks. I will follow up on this post when i get done.
 
bmwpowere36m3

bmwpowere36m3

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
209
Location
USA
I lot of guys, including myself, have MM'd their 590s and still run the stock carb... I'm willing to bet I still have a 1/2 - 1 turn left of adjustment. Set it VERY rich and try again, maybe its not actually four-stroking.
 
dirtcurt

dirtcurt

sawsnob
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
21
Age
56
Location
Fresno, Ca.
I have a 600p, 2 590's and one of the 590's really 4 strokes with smoke chugging out 3/4 off the seat. I have pulled the deflector but done nothing else. I really need to either tach it or go cut with it to see where it's at. I certainly don't want to burn it up just because it's on the rev limiter. Just as a note my 600P had completely different limiter caps and much more room around them than the 590s. Based on that I wonder if it's a different carb.
 
Bigriver

Bigriver

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 17, 2017
Messages
17
Age
54
Location
Skokomish
I got a 590 and can't get it to idle? What's the start point for the high and lows?one turn out for both?it has a muffler mod.
 
Bigriver

Bigriver

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 17, 2017
Messages
17
Age
54
Location
Skokomish
I lot of guys, including myself, have MM'd their 590s and still run the stock carb... I'm willing to bet I still have a 1/2 - 1 turn left of adjustment. Set it VERY rich and try again, maybe its not actually four-stroking.
Can you tell me a starting point for my cs 590 it won't idle?has mm and caps are off it looks like it's been messed with by looking at h,l,screws! Please help!
 
dirtcurt

dirtcurt

sawsnob
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
21
Age
56
Location
Fresno, Ca.
TheI wanted to follow up with this thread. I put in the new jets and that was the problem, with one of the saws. It ran perfect and tuned easy very straightforward. The other became a real head scratcher. I tried a new ignition, to change a low reving saw. It idled fine but just didn't have top end power. New 600p didn't change a thing. Finally it started to yank the pull handle out of my hand! TIMING! I had swapped out everything with the other saws to find the problem which turned out to be a flywheel that sheared the key way . I pulled the old key way and locktited the flywheel in the correct position. It worked and has worked great since. If the saw seizes, it can stop hard enough to shear and move the flywheel.
 
dirtcurt

dirtcurt

sawsnob
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
21
Age
56
Location
Fresno, Ca.
Can you tell me a starting point for my cs 590 it won't idle?has mm and caps are off it looks like it's been messed with by looking at h,l,screws! Please help!
Can you tell me a starting point for my cs 590 it won't idle?has mm and caps are off it looks like it's been messed with by looking at h,l,screws! Please help!
One turn out will be close enough. Make sure you don't have the idle too high . Will it run ok on top end?
 
dirtcurt

dirtcurt

sawsnob
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
21
Age
56
Location
Fresno, Ca.
Look in the throat of the carb if you can and verify you have a width of the the butterfly open. If you can't look At the idle screw and make sure it is actually engaging the lever. Back the idle screw out until it separates from the point it makes contact with the arm of the carb then check for smooth operation of the butterfly. Next screw the screw in until it makes contact ,then watch the arm move a small amount towards open throttle. Keep opening until it will idle. Two turns after contact will be too much. It should idle fast then back it down while setting the mix screws closer and closer to a good tune. I'm assuming you have the top end and low speed close to correct mix to start with. One last thing, verify you are getting full throttle when pulling the trigger back.
 
sawfixer

sawfixer

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 4, 2015
Messages
20
Age
55
Location
San Diego, California
I wanted to update my experience with trying to replace the main nozzle on a Walbro HDA-268 carburetor on my Echo Cs600P with an 86-578-1 nozzle. I ended up moving to Utah at an altitude of close to 5,000 feet so I needed to do the nozzle swap due to the inability to compensate for a very rich mixture with the "H" jet fully seated. Unfortunately, after reviewing many other threads on this site regarding this procedure, I couldn't drive out the original semi-fixed nozzle after several repeated hard strikes with a metal punch. Realizing I wouldn't get the nozzle out without possibly damaging the carburetor, I decided to use a punch with a taper slightly larger than the orifice and distorting the hole to the point where it closed up. Fortunately, it worked and I ended with a fully adjustable carburetor with the final "H" jet setting about 2.5 turns out. For those with the same carburetor, you might want to try to distort the orifice like I did instead of replacing the nozzle.
 
lostone

lostone

Stihl Runnin
Joined
Jul 20, 2002
Messages
1,300
Location
Salt Lake, Ut.
I had considered trying that when I couldn't get the jet to move on one at first. I was willing to chance destroying the carb with the thought "If I do destroy it I will replace it with a different model carb" so I ended up hitting that thing like it owed me money and it finally broke lose and came out easily after that.
 
Top