Electric Chain Sharpener Opinions....

[lil171]

Hi again. So, as I am new to all this stuff, I am addicted to it like most things I do. I have sharpened chains in teh past using a filing guide with decent success. I also recently bought an Oregon Bar mounted filing guide. I have yet to use it as I do not have instructions for it as I bought it used. I am not a big wood cutting person, maybe a cord every couple years for bonfires. With this all said, I have recently bought/aquired a few chains used, and a few new. The couple used ones could more than likely use a good filing, to which I would think getting them evened up bu having then 'ground'. It would cost me $25-$30 to get them all done initially by a local person doing sharpening. All but one of my chains are 3/8 LP. So instead of paying to do them once, I considering jumping ship and buying an electric grinding system. I have narrowed it down to two that are available locally. Would anyone here possibly have opinions on which would be better. I have made up my mind, but am looking for others opinions. Personally, I am thinking of the one on sale for $100 as it is listed as all aluminum/metal, and the one for $60 is mostly plastic. The more expensive one claims it has lights on it as well, which I do not know if it is a big deal or not. If I was coming down to the US soon, I would probably grab the Harbor Freight one, but I am not coming down anytime soon. Also if you feel the cheaper one would do the job good enough for me, I will wait as they do go on sale from time to time. Thank you for your opinions. (I am not sure if I am allowed to post off site links here, so if it is not allowed, please let me know and I will remove them)

https://www.princessauto.com/en/det...0gS0124oq9bHf1N6z2yaCzKx5XZqf_6caAjfcEALw_wcB

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/bench-mount-electric-chainsaw-sharpener/A-p8601577e

 

[lil171]

Just to add. I do feel that I would personally use it to sharpen 1 - 2 chains a year for myself. But I was also considering sharpening locally for a couple of bucks a chain to pay it off.

 

[Simple Jack]

I just purchased a Oregon 520-120 and I like it very much. It works great!! The $99 sharpener is pretty much just like to one I have, there might be a few minor differences, but it is a lot like it. The $99 one look like it is adjustable for all the angles you need. It doesn't look like the $59 sharpener can adjust properly. I would stay away from the cheep one. In my experience every time I get the inexpensive tool, I later find out why it was inexpensive, and have to end up and get the expensive tool in the end. So... now I always try to buy the best I can, so I don't waist my money having to buy things twice. Good luck with your purchase!!!

 

[merc_man]

Heres a auto sharpener. Looks pretty cool and all the reviews are good. It can also run on 12 volt battery. Ther is a vid on you tube. I woukd like to try one but dont have the extra cash now. Maybe this fall.

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[JP56]

Just to add. I do feel that I would personally use it to sharpen 1 - 2 chains a year for myself. But I was also considering sharpening locally for a couple of bucks a chain to pay it off.

I am not heavy into all the chainsaws like most of the guys here, but I have cut down and cut up 15 trees on my property over the years, mostly maples and oak from 20' to 35' tall in diameters from 8" to 24". They really can dull the blades fast. I have done some filing but was not too happy with it, as I find it to be an acquired skill. I purchased the Harbor Freight sharpener for 29$ here in CT and am very happy with the results that gives me. A few friends were so impressed when they had me sharpen their chains that they went and purchased one as well. Just my 2 cents worth here lol.

 

[KiwiBro]

Heres a auto sharpener. Looks pretty cool and all the reviews are good. It can also run on 12 volt battery. Ther is a vid on you tube. I woukd like to try one but dont have the extra cash now. Maybe this fall.

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@Philbert

 

[heimannm]

For so few chains as you currently need to sharpen, I would suggest you find/buy a few Carlton File-O-Pate devices and some good files. You will never be sorry with the results.



Mark

 

[lil171]

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. Now to do some searching and try to find out how long a stone will last before having to replace it. I am not against hand filing, as I will still probably do it most of the time. I just like to play with new things, and as stated above, if I need to have a chain or two sharpened after hitting something, it will pay itself off, as well as sharpening chains locally when I figure it out. Now still leaning to the $99 one. Thank you.

 

[Philbert]

Heres a auto sharpener. . . . Looks pretty cool and all the reviews are good.

We have a thread on it!

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/automatic-chain-sharpener-under-300.327363/

Philbert

 

[rd35]

The pink aluminum oxide stones (that come with a new grinder of the type you are looking to buy) will last quite a long time. There are a few things you need to do in order to get good results from them. 1) you need to clean the chain before grinding so that you don't get chain oil and wood sap transferred onto the wheel. 2) you need to use the dressing stone (which also comes with the new grinder) to dress the wheel at least once for every chain you sharpen. Dressing the wheel surface exposes new stone particles that are sharp and allows the stone to remove metal without getting overheated too easily. 3) when grinding, be sure to not overheat the cutter as you grind. Short bursts of grinding (1/2 second or less in time) will keep the tooth cooler which prevents damage to the heat-treat in the tooth. I used to be able to sharpen 50-75 chains before a wheel was worn away. Now, I use a cubic-boron-nitride wheel (which cost me more $$$ than my grinder cost). It does not heat the cutters, I don't need to clean chains, it never needs to be dressed, and it lasts for over 1000 chains.

 

[Philbert]

I have sharpened chains in teh past using a filing guide with decent success. I also recently bought an Oregon Bar mounted filing guide. . . .I have recently bought/aquired a few chains . . . could more than likely use a good filing, . . . Thank you for your opinions.

I just read your original post (I was 'tagged' a few posts above, regarding the $300 Auto Sharpener, and was viewing on my phone, so I did not see the entire thread).

I am generally a fan of electric grinders, but there is some 'you get what you pay for' involved. The cheap grinders come with cheap wheels, limited power, and limited grinding options. I rehab a lot of chains and these are all important issues, compared to just honing the edges of a lightly used chain.

I really do not like the first grinder you listed, as the 'side grind' approach makes it really hard to see what you are doing. The second grinder you list is a 'clone' of the Oregon / Tecomec grinders; again, low quality wheels and components. Replacing the 3 cheap wheels quickly gets you up to the price of a much better quality grinder, without having to make all the modifications.

I did some experimentation on cheap 'Harbor Freight' type grinders and started this thread, which you may find useful:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

Here is a thread on the clone grinders (called 'Northern Tool' grinders, as that was one of the first companies marketing them):
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/northern-hyd-grinder-making-it-work-pics.40844/

A basic, full-sized grinder that I can recommend is made by Tecomec, which is a good value. It will also keep much of it's value if you decide to sell it later on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...harpener-Oregon-520-120/381918670400#shpCntId

Philbert

 

[lil171]

Thank you all for your help and comments again. Yesterday afternoon I picked up the second sharpener I listed for $100. Assembled it and gave it a run on one chain I had on my Mastercraft/Poulan 2300. I first removed the chain and soaked it in gasoline to clean it first before grinding, then wiped and blew it off as not to dirty up the disc. First time ever using a grinder like this and drove me a bit mad for a few minutes. Tried to get it set for the chain multiple times, but each time, the grinder kept hitting the chain stop(part that rests against the back of the tooth). Disassembled the unit and swiveled it to the other side only to find out I could not use it that way! Kept looking, then finally realized that I had to tilt the grinder assembly to a 60 degree angle. D'oh! Then I gave it a whirl only to see the grinder hitting what I call teh chain stop. I then realized it is adjustable in and out as to not hit the grinding stone. Once I had it all figured out, I set up and sharpened my first chain. It went very fast in my opinion. I did see a couple of heat marks on a couple teeth, but it was my first time, and I am now learning. However, as soon as I was done, I had to give it a try. It threw pieces of wood all over, and a lot of pieces the approximate width of the teeth and about 1 1/2 - 2 " long. I was happy, and still am. Now the learning begins. I will also have to cut up soem wood so I can keep needing to use this sharpener. I will be taking it to the cottage this weekend to sharpen my Poulan 3314 chain and see how that one goes. I think it has only one grinding left as the teeth are pretty short, but I cannot screw it up any more than it already is, and I have a spare chain for it here anyways!

One last question too, if I may. How long does one grinding disc roughly last? Or should I say roughly how many chain sharpenings. All I have are 3/8LP and the one .325 that I will hopefully be getting soon for my old Pioneer once I get that all sorted out. Also, they are all 16" chains. Thank you.

 

[rd35]

One last question too, if I may. How long does one grinding disc roughly last? Or should I say roughly how many chain sharpenings. All I have are 3/8LP and the one .325 that I will hopefully be getting soon for my old Pioneer once I get that all sorted out. Also, they are all 16" chains. Thank you.

I only went completely through one pink wheel and part of another before I switched to a CBN wheel. My first pink wheel lasted well over 100 chains. However, it wasn't until about 30-40 chains into that wheel that I figured out I needed to dress the wheel more often. After that, I began doing a much better job sharpening....and also noticed the wheel was wearing away much quicker (as one would logically expect). As I began using the second pink wheel I would guess that I would have used it all up in about 75 chains worth of sharpenings. lil171 you are starting down the same road I took when I started sharpening chains! I would suggest reading as many articles as you can on Madsens and Carlton's websites and any others you can find. They show how a cutter works and they explain what you want to try to achieve when sharpening. Those articles as well as the many many threads on the subject on this forum helped me tons. Philbert is one of the most well versed members I have seen on this subject. If you keep reading and studying his articles and those by many other experts here you will be an expert yourself in no time. Nothing excites me more than to sharpen a chain for somebody new....and have them call me on the phone and say, "Wow, what did you do to my chain?....I've never had a chain cut that fast before....even faster and smoother than a brand new one!!!" Puts a smile on my face that lasts all day!

 

[lil171]

Thank you.

 

[Philbert]

I first removed the chain and soaked it in gasoline to clean it first before grinding, then wiped and blew it off as not to dirty up the disc. First time ever using a grinder like this and drove me a bit mad for a few minutes.

Gasoline can be bad news for cleaning. I use a water-based degreaser which works really well, no fumes, no fire hazard, etc:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

These grinders are not 'automatic' - they require knowledge, skill, and experince to be effective. Lots of tips on using these types of grinders here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

Wheel life depends somewhat on how you use it: touch-up sharpening or restoring 'rocked' chains? Quality of the wheels, size/type of chains, etc. Good to have a spare on hand of the main one that you use, in case you drop or damage it, so that you can get back to work.

Philbert

 

[sb47]

If thats all the wood your cutting, why in the world would you spend money on an electric sharpener? What to save a few chains? You could still hand fill them and get the rest of the usefulness out of them and save that money for something more useful.

 

[rd35]

For me it wasn’t about the cost as much as it was about getting a chain sharpened correctly and maintaining consistency tooth-to-tooth. Speaking purely for myself, I just did not believe I could achieve this consistency with my handheld file and guide. So I bought an NT grinder...and I am so glad I did!!

 

[HarleyT]

Soaking in gas, that might be fun to watch if you didn't dry it off good.

 

[sb47]

For me it wasn’t about the cost as much as it was about getting a chain sharpened correctly and maintaining consistency tooth-to-tooth. Speaking purely for myself, I just did not believe I could achieve this consistency with my handheld file and guide. So I bought an NT grinder...and I am so glad I did!!

Being exact is not necessary, but youv'e already pulled the trigger so enjoy.

 

[Philbert]

After I bought my chain grinder, I found a lot more chains to grind, for other people!

Same thing with my spinner / breaker set.

Come to think of it, same thing with my saw(s)!

Philbert