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Wow

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First, a story about how I made this discovery. Many years ago I was running new equipment when someone noticed a bold had backed almost all way out. Snugged the bolt and discovered it was mostly stripped and would not torque. On hand was some string trimner line. Cut a piece the depth of the hole and reinstalled the bolt. This was not an extremely high stress area so I ran the equipment keeping an eye on that bolt. Later it was still secure. Located near the engine block my guess was the heat would soften the trimmer line (I have no idea what that stuff is made out of) and the bolt may loosen. After several hours over a period of 4 or 5 days I stopped worrying. Years later the mackima was worn out and junked with that bolt still holding. I've seen locking nuts with some type of plastic so my guess is that's the same principal.
Once I drilled the motrer between bricks and cut string trimmer line then drove a nail into the brick wall. I learned this trick over 30 years ago and have never shared it. I'm 72 now. May as well pass it on. Some bolt holes, I've put up to 3 pieces. They can't extend past the hole and should reach the bottom. Some bolts must be fixed right but I keep some line in my tool box. Never know when this trick will get you home. I'm full of tricks. Once built a fire using the muffler heat on my ATV. Good day
 
It's been a long time since the first fix, but I've done it on 1/4 up to 3/8. Never drilled. Just put the round .080 nylon string line on the hole and screwed the bolt in. Sometimes the line has to be longer so you can hold it and bend it aside to start the bolt. But before I do tightening cut flush. This is something you custom fit. For driving 10 /12 penny nails between bricks a tapcon drill worked even when there was some slop. I've cut and stacked up to 3 of those pieces. My guess is it may work on a Chainsaw in some places. Probably not on a muffler. For that I've got some tiny copper wire the telephone wire stuff. Good day.
 
It's been a long time since the first fix, but I've done it on 1/4 up to 3/8. Never drilled. Just put the round .080 nylon string line on the hole and screwed the bolt in. Sometimes the line has to be longer so you can hold it and bend it aside to start the bolt. But before I do tightening cut flush. This is something you custom fit. For driving 10 /12 penny nails between bricks a tapcon drill worked even when there was some slop. I've cut and stacked up to 3 of those pieces. My guess is it may work on a Chainsaw in some places. Probably not on a muffler. For that I've got some tiny copper wire the telephone wire stuff. Good day.
Been using mechanics wire (Baling wire) for years drill a hole in through a bottom plate (Wood) into the concrete slip in a piece of wire drive in a nail and hope you don't have to pull it out done many deviations since as needed.
I learned that trick from my CUZZENKEN more than 40 years ago.
Have no idea who told him , Guess I will have to ask him
I do like the idea of trimmer string for rust reasons.
 
Been using mechanics wire (Baling wire) for years drill a hole in through a bottom plate (Wood) into the concrete slip in a piece of wire drive in a nail and hope you don't have to pull it out done many deviations since as needed.
I learned that trick from my CUZZENKEN more than 40 years ago.
Have no idea who told him , Guess I will have to ask him
I do like the idea of trimmer string for rust reasons.
I get ideas a lot. At the moment I'm working on how to fit a Sthil 026 bar on my Echo cs490. Good day
 
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