Engine choices for a bandsaw

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I am looking towards the timberking 1220 and the wood mixer lt 15. Both offer an electric motor with around 10 hp. So I assume this is roughly equal to the gas engines of 18 to 25 they offer? What's involved in the wiring for a single phase engine, I wonder?
10 horsepower is 10 horsepower as far as I am concerned. The gasoline engine will have a governor I would expect and there is a lag as the governor does it's thing compared to an electric one that has the electric grid to call on at the speed of light. I think this is where the idea the numbers do not exactly yield the same results in the real word. Maybe as you overload an electric it draws more amps that the plate on the motor says while the gas one is out of it's rated peak power spot. A 25kw tractor pto generator claims it will start a 10 hp motor and it does almost always if it doesn't do not try for very long or the capacitors (start capacitors there are rum ones as well) will make a puff of smoke. It does not seem to trip a 40 or 50 amp breaker when connected to the grid. On mine they have soldered a little resistor across the capacitor terminals that shortens the space for the clips to attach and think that has caused me some aggravation. I have the Cooks one, It comes with switch gear that I think is 40 amps it appears to be for three phase but not all the terminals are used. I think It is 40 amp but not sure without going out to verify. The pto generator I use the 50 amp plug with breaker and it only is rated at 100 amps but to use that steady you need connect to another spot. I have tripped the switch gear breaker engaging the engine too fast (it starts no load) not the one on the generator. Mine uses a 3600 rpm motor and I suspect the other manufacturers do as well but it is possible to get a somewhat heavier motor that has more torque but half the rpm.
 
Just checking to see if you have made a decision on any purchase as of yet? My thinking on the matter is to consider the weight, length and diameter of the logs you want to cut and then think of how you are going to load the saw, 5 men, 10 men and a boy, have a forklift, or just you yourself loading logs at your and my age? This in itself will more less dictate what your needs are and what type and size saw you will need. You more than likely have thought of all of this, so I'm just reiterating here. I am building my second sawmill now from the ground up and have a forklift to load logs with. I bought an 18 HP engine which will do the job nicely. The gasoline problem can easily be solved by not letting the gas go bad or leaving it in the tank to long, running the engine until it dies and all the gas is drained out of the carburetor, that's if you plan on not using the saw for a month. I've posted the builds on this forum, enjoy. Well hope this helps in your retirement years, Jeff.
 
LM36... Although it is a bit bigger than mine...

Even a small guy can load logs by him self, IF you parbuckle them on... My mill has that option even though I have a tractor for that job. It's just slow, but it DOES get the job done.

The same set up is used to turn logs,

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It's also slow, but it IS a big time back saver...

SR
 
Morning Rob, thanks. I still have to call my buddy and see which Norwood he has. He was talking about selling it and getting a bigger one. Then changed his mind, then let it sit for several years, now he can't get it started. On my 4th cup of coffee. Gotta get over to the farm. We have 32 fence posts to put in. Hard drilling through all the shale on a steep hill. Might have to do it by hand, Joe.
 
Morning Rob, thanks. I still have to call my buddy and see which Norwood he has. He was talking about selling it and getting a bigger one. Then changed his mind, then let it sit for several years, now he can't get it started. On my 4th cup of coffee. Gotta get over to the farm. We have 32 fence posts to put in. Hard drilling through all the shale on a steep hill. Might have to do it by hand, Joe.
Been there done that, no fun even with a drill attachment to a tractor. I once had 62 steel pipe post to put in the ground, saddle grind for a top rail pipe then weld them all together.
 
good morning all. Newbie sawyer wannabe here. Looking into purchasing an entry level bandsaw. Have been reading in forums like this for info. Also watching lots of utube videos. And am drowning in manufacturers literature. Not looking to make money from this. I'm a couple of years away from retirement, and hoping for a hobby to make a bit of lumber. Have been trying to manage about 70 acres of mixed wood lot. I have seen a timberking 1220 demo, very impressed!
Also hope to work with a friend on her Norwood 29 sawmill.
So I guess my concerns are which brands are the most reliable and user friendly.
Should I consider one mounted on a trailer for portability or save on the cost and just build a shed? And what about engine choices, I like the idea of electric, are thes engines as powerful as the combustion engines they would replace? And are they reliable? Would an electric motor be easier to maintain? Love this forum, lots of smart folks sharing their experiences.
Any ideas you may provide would be welcome! Thanks. Lerock

Find a Used WoodMizer LT40 Hydraulic. You can set it up & use the loaf loader.

b08fae6668ec20cb61cc1343e4511212.jpg

d5cc1be8a405e16dcf5d86320ad3428e.jpg


I wouldn't want to give up this WM to run any of the Norwoods I've seen.

As far as Gasoline Powered or Electric, if you are setting it up permanently, I'd look into the Electric.

You can use a Phase converter to power the need 3 Phase drive if you have enough single phase.

I would think a 300 amp service would be a gracious plenty for everything a shop or house for you would use, & still have enough room for the Phase converter to run the mill.
 
Find a Used WoodMizer LT40 Hydraulic. You can set it up & use the loaf loader.

b08fae6668ec20cb61cc1343e4511212.jpg

d5cc1be8a405e16dcf5d86320ad3428e.jpg


I wouldn't want to give up this WM to run any of the Norwoods I've seen.

As far as Gasoline Powered or Electric, if you are setting it up permanently, I'd look into the Electric.

You can use a Phase converter to power the need 3 Phase drive if you have enough single phase.

I would think a 300 amp service would be a gracious plenty for everything a shop or house for you would use, & still have enough room for the Phase converter to run the mill.
From the photos I see, you have a very nice machine, I like it, I like it allot.
 
I wouldn't want to give up this WM to run any of the Norwoods I've seen.
Yeaaa, but the REAL question is, would you want give it up to run a Woodmizer LT10 or LT15???

Of course not, no one would want to give up a "hydraulic" machine to run a manual machine... BUT, the manual machine cost half as much, or even less than half! And, the manual machine has MUCH less on it to go wrong and DOES get the job done.

SR
 
"Should I consider one mounted on a trailer for portability or save on the cost and just build a shed? "

i suggest do both. that way you can travel to mill and when parked at home, youre in the shade milling with the added benefit of its protected from the weather
 
Yeaaa, but the REAL question is, would you want give it up to run a Woodmizer LT10 or LT15???

Of course not, no one would want to give up a "hydraulic" machine to run a manual machine... BUT, the manual machine cost half as much, or even less than half! And, the manual machine has MUCH less on it to go wrong and DOES get the job done.

SR

You can buy a used HD mill for new "mills you mentioned" prices.
 
"Should I consider one mounted on a trailer for portability or save on the cost and just build a shed? "

i suggest do both. that way you can travel to mill and when parked at home, youre in the shade milling with the added benefit of its protected from the weather

Absolutely.
 
LT-15
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/hvo/6183909656.html

LT-28
http://gainesville.craigslist.org/for/6170410148.html


LT40
http://shreveport.craigslist.org/grd/6178043011.html
Offer them $9,000


I wish I had the $ for this: LT-70 Electric
http://jackson.craigslist.org/hvo/6185210314.html


Bingo
Wood-Mizer Sawmill LT-30-HD Electric 26' length
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/grd/6174962749.html


LT 40 Wood Mizer Saw Mill
http://asheville.craigslist.org/grd/6125004863.html


2000 Wood-Mizer LT40 portable sawmill
http://asheville.craigslist.org/tls/6142988463.html

Wood-Mizer LT15 Saw Mill

http://delrio.craigslist.org/hvo/6127484571.html

There are some ideas of the Asking Prices for various used WM mills.
 
You can buy a used HD mill for new "mills you mentioned" prices.
TRUE! Just like you can buy a nice used manual mill for half or less than half of that...

It's really about what you want in the first place and how much you have to spend.

A friend of mine looked for quite a while and finally found a decent mizer 40 HD mill for $7500.00, not bad, BUT he had to go over it and replace some parts too. SO, he has more money into it and lucky for him, he's a pretty good mechanic so he did the work himself, as it took a while to sort it out.

Like I said, it's all about how much $$ you have to spend...

SR
 
TRUE! Just like you can buy a nice used manual mill for half or less than half of that...

It's really about what you want in the first place and how much you have to spend.

A friend of mine looked for quite a while and finally found a decent mizer 40 HD mill for $7500.00, not bad, BUT he had to go over it and replace some parts too. SO, he has more money into it and lucky for him, he's a pretty good mechanic so he did the work himself, as it took a while to sort it out.

Like I said, it's all about how much $$ you have to spend...

SR
Yes, I have to agree with that and why I built my first and now my second mill. I thoroughly enjoy building things, especially machinery. Seeing them working and preforming as designed gives me real pleasure and of course the plus of saving money at the same time. Here is a video of my first mill, we were making adjustment to the blade so as to cut straight and level, making test cuts and in no way was the saw complete or had a permanent home at this point in time.
 
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