Exhaust Manifold Gasket Repair

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
29,452
Reaction score
101,719
Location
MN
The manifold gaskets are almost completely blown out of my 97' 2500 Chevy wood hauling/plow truck. The exhaustbolts won't come undone so basically the manifolds need to come off which will result in broken studs in the heads so then the heads would need to come off. In other words, not feasible to do for a $1000 truck. I see JB weld makes "extreme heat" version. Wondering if using this stuff would work to shore up the exhaust leaks. I do not need it to be perfect but it is pretty bad right now.
 
The manifold gaskets are almost completely blown out of my 97' 2500 Chevy wood hauling/plow truck. The exhaustbolts won't come undone so basically the manifolds need to come off which will result in broken studs in the heads so then the heads would need to come off. In other words, not feasible to do for a $1000 truck. I see JB weld makes "extreme heat" version. Wondering if using this stuff would work to shore up the exhaust leaks. I do not need it to be perfect but it is pretty bad right now.
Did you try heating them with a torch? Then try soaking every day with penetrating oil for a week. Then repeat.
 
We already tried with a torch. And every bolt I have tried to loosen in this exhaust system previously has broken. 240K miles plus lots of Minnesota salty roads.....
 
Did you try heating them with a torch? Then try soaking every day with penetrating oil for a week. Then repeat.
It should never have had gaskets between the manifold and head in the 1st place, if the manifold is warped it should have been resurfaced, if it wasn't warped and gaskets were used it probable is now. Those steel and asbestos gaskets that come in rebuild kits need to be discarded, they shrink and then blow out.
 
Let me clarify. My issues are the donut gasket between the manifold and the pipe. Not between the manifold and the head. Sorry about that.
 
pretty sure those have studs on the manifold outlets, break them off and remove the y pipe.now you can get to the studs. I like to try and use crayons if i have the room, heat your fastener then melt the wax into the threads and let it cool, do this a couple times to get wax buildup in the threads..if you must spray a liquid I like this mix or something close to it. dexIII/merc 40-60% diesel or kerosine or lamp oil 15-25% acetone or lacquer thinner 15-25% preferrably spray it down every time it cools for a few days in a row.
 
pretty sure those have studs on the manifold outlets, break them off and remove the y pipe.now you can get to the studs. I like to try and use crayons if i have the room, heat your fastener then melt the wax into the threads and let it cool, do this a couple times to get wax buildup in the threads..if you must spray a liquid I like this mix or something close to it. dexIII/merc 40-60% diesel or kerosine or lamp oil 15-25% acetone or lacquer thinner 15-25% preferrably spray it down every time it cools for a few days in a row.
I like to use turpentine but the real stuff may be kinda hard to find these days. Muffler/exhaust shops deal with this issue on a daily basis and might be the best bet for someone not so mechanically inclined.
 
I am sure this is more than you want to do but this is a good watch for a rainy Saturday before the wings start cooking for some football tonight. This guy, Eric, from southmain auto is pretty awesome to watch. I guarantee a few of you will subscribe to his channel if you haven't already. Good luck with the j.b weld. My philosophy if it's already broken then you can't break it. Edit: Just read the part about the doughnut gasket. That sure is a hell of a lot better then the manifold bolt/gasket. I used J.B. weld on my 97 nissan maxima flex pipe until I could get someone to put another one on. Surprisingly, t worked well for a while even though it was the flex pipe.
 
Let me clarify. My issues are the donut gasket between the manifold and the pipe. Not between the manifold and the head. Sorry about that.
Repeating this - some may have missed it. It's been a long time since I've had to deal with exhaust donuts and it's no fun, especially in tight quarters. We just always used a lot of heat or drilled the stud out and used a bolt and nut.
Are you using fiber donuts? Seems like there were solid steel or cast iron donuts available at one time.
 
Repeating this - some may have missed it. It's been a long time since I've had to deal with exhaust donuts and it's no fun, especially in tight quarters. We just always used a lot of heat or drilled the stud out and used a bolt and nut.
Are you using fiber donuts? Seems like there were solid steel or cast iron donuts available at one time.
After more contemplation I’m thinking I’m going to sell the truck. It just has too many issues to deal with and I have a newer plow truck.
 
Repeating this - some may have missed it. It's been a long time since I've had to deal with exhaust donuts and it's no fun, especially in tight quarters. We just always used a lot of heat or drilled the stud out and used a bolt and nut.
Are you using fiber donuts? Seems like there were solid steel or cast iron donuts available at one time.
there have only ever been two choices, one is fiber and the other is stainless mesh with graphite embedded. The easiest way to do this is to use a oxy/acet torch to blow out the studs from the top then use bolts to put it back together, is it the right way? no but it will work just fine on a ol beater firewood hauler. no torch? break both sides off and drop the y pipe. Cut then grind the studs flat to the manifold flange then drill and use bolts to reinstall. Its a 45 minute job with the torch, 1.5hrs or less the other way. a good tip is to measure the y pipe to the ground, cut two rounds that length to use as a holder when putting back together.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top