Extra wide production table for Supersplit

[sirbuildalot]

I see that it is an option, but can't locate a price. I know others have made there own like Sam-Tip. Has anyone bought the extra wide version form Paul at SS? It is listed as being 10" wider and 6" longer. Sounds perfect to hold re-splits and halves without them getting in the way or falling off if stood on end.


http://www.supersplit.com/modelsandoptions/index.html

 

[CaseyForrest]

Looks like is $394 as opposed to $289 for the standard table when ordering. Not sure what the a la carte price is.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I've been standing split half rounds on end and then splitting the other half. Gives me a little more room that way if the halves are big. Adding the UHMW to the top of the table has made a huge difference as KiwiBro has pointed out before, and very easy to do. Cut it with a jig saw, skill saw, or router. Pretty slick when re-splitting.

 

[KiwiBro]

I've been standing split half rounds on end and then splitting the other half. Gives me a little more room that way if the halves are big. Adding the UHMW to the top of the table has made a huge difference as KiwiBro has pointed out before, and very easy to do. Cut it with a jig saw, skill saw, or router. Pretty slick when re-splitting.

LOL. Thanks. You're the first person I know of who actually tried what I have been saying for a long time. Did you find it took some adjustments to stop the half-rounds from slipping off the table before they were split, because the table is so slick with the UHMWPE layer? Have you noticed how beautiful the engagement is if you catch it just as the rack bounces off the bumpers? This is of course much easier to do when the table top is so slick it is much easier getting resplits back in front of the knife/wedge.

 

[sirbuildalot]

I do use the standing on end trick. My problem isn't the surface not being slick enough, its that it isn't large enough to function in the way I want it to. I get quite a bit of decent sized wood in the 18"-30" diameter range. Even on end it doesn't really allow for enough table room. For small rounds in the 6-12" range I like the OEM table just fine. Its when you get into larger pieces. Also being maybe 6" longer would prevent pieces from falling on the tow hitch, as well as wouldn't push off halves you want to stay on the table. Nothing worse then horsing a 150 lb round onto the beam and having half of it fall back on the ground. I do have a wooden staging table, but Id rather get a larger production table for the splitter. I may ask a local metal shop what they would charge. I think I could get it made up for less than the $400 SS is asking.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Someone on here blogged about bending the edges back on the original table. Seems you could add on in some way. With bigger rounds I set half on the cut table, but it is extra work.

 

[CaseyForrest]

I do use the standing on end trick. My problem isn't the surface not being slick enough, its that it isn't large enough to function in the way I want it to. I get quite a bit of decent sized wood in the 18"-30" diameter range. Even on end it doesn't really allow for enough table room. For small rounds in the 6-12" range I like the OEM table just fine. Its when you get into larger pieces. Also being maybe 6" longer would prevent pieces from falling on the tow hitch, as well as wouldn't push off halves you want to stay on the table. Nothing worse then horsing a 150 lb round onto the beam and having half of it fall back on the ground. I do have a wooden staging table, but Id rather get a larger production table for the splitter. I may ask a local metal shop what they would charge. I think I could get it made up for less than the $400 SS is asking.

I built this table for basically free....

Wouldn't be hard to build one similar for under $100 and have far more surface area to work with.

 

[sirbuildalot]

Here are a couple items I made when I first got the Superspit. One is an extension table that slips under the end of the OEM production table. The other is a sloped loading ramp that as you take the rounds off the others roll down towards you.







Here is what I meant when I said the pieces tend to fall in such a way that the piece you are splitting can get "wedged" in between





This pile took around 2.5 hours to split

 

[unclemoustache]

I've been standing split half rounds on end and then splitting the other half. Gives me a little more room that way if the halves are big. Adding the UHMW to the top of the table has made a huge difference as KiwiBro has pointed out before, and very easy to do. Cut it with a jig saw, skill saw, or router. Pretty slick when re-splitting.

What is this UHMW you speak of?


.

 

[Samuel22250]

What is this UHMW you speak of?


.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene

Add it to the top of the table makes sliding the wood around easy

 

[CaseyForrest]

What is this UHMW you speak of?


.

UHMWPE Is the stuff those white, plastic cutting boards are made from. Its a self lubricating, semi self healing plastic. Very low friction....

ETA: Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthlyene

 

[CaseyForrest]

Here are a couple items I made when I first got the Superspit. One is an extension table that slips under the end of the OEM production table. The other is a sloped loading ramp that as you take the rounds off the others roll down towards you.







Here is what I meant when I said the pieces tend to fall in such a way that the piece you are splitting can get "wedged" in between





This pile took around 2.5 hours to split

Thats why I have the table off to the side. I can usually store one or two slices off a round, but more than that and it gets jammed up....

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Commonly called Teflon or Delrin

What is this UHMW you speak of?


.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

The SS table is painted black. It is pretty slippery, until the paint wears off and it gets rained on once. Then it rusts and is a little like sandpaper. The rust wears off quickly, but the table is no longer slippery. I waxed it by rubbing an old candle on the table. Huge difference, but only lasts a good half hour.
KiwiBro spoke of this mod a long time ago, a year or more ago anyway, but I just made do. When cleaning the machine I gave it a good look over and discovered that if the table was mounted, bolted, below the beam instead of on top of the lower beam flange, the height of the table dropped 1/2". Six bolts. No other changes than removing six bolts, repositioning the table, and re-bolting. Then add 1/2" UHMW. I ordered it on-line. All the exposed edges are rounded with an 1/8" or 1/4" rounder router bit, and fastened with self tapping trailer decking screws through the existing table.
UHMW will expand in the sun, so I fastened only the leading edges down and let the tail float.
It is a really nice mod.
Thanks KiwiBro!

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Old thread.
Ten month update:

UHMW has been a great modification, and after sixty full cord (modest estimate), no issues.
I thought the narrow strips along the beam might crack or fatigue, but not so to date, and I've put a lot of heavy 20" rounds on there. And noodled larger rounds.
I get junk wedged under the table next to the beam by the wedge area, but nothing between the table and UHMW as yet.
It is a simple and sweet mod.
If you try it you will wonder why the SS does not come stock that with it, or at least as an option.
A larger table would be nice, but for me, it would not fit the conveyor as well, so doing okay with out that.

 

[CUCV]

On my SE the previous owner had supersized the table. It was so big I cut off 1' all the way around and it is still big and I find myself reaching a bit more than I like. On the diesel SS I have been working on forever, I have removable filler pieces to go on the opposing side of where you stand. I haven't run that splitter much but so far I am liking the ability to store wood in that area.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

On the diesel SS I have been working on forever,

Lets see some pictures...

 

[Whitbread]

Lets see some pictures...

There's already 2 diesel SS's running around, let's see the third!

Here's my good buddy's diesel SS, the first one as far as I know - https://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?43865-Diesel-wood-splitter-Super-Split

 

[CUCV]

Yeah the splitter came to life 5 years ago or so but life has been busy with other projects. I've split several cord with it but with every DIY project there are kinks to work out and improvements to make. The engine stinks something fierce, some say I should replace the injector pump or injector even thought its new. I ordered a 9hp honda with gear reduction to replace it and the block got cracked in shipping. I just haven't found the time to weld it up.

Here is a pic of the table filler piece, I have one for each side.

Whitbread, how do you like your wood boiler? I have the Empyre Elite 200 that can be installed indoors or outdoors and have it installed outdoors.

 

[Whitbread]

Whitbread, how do you like your wood boiler? I have the Empyre Elite 200 that can be installed indoors or outdoors and have it installed outdoors.

It's a love/hate relationship. The boiler runs well, but the firebox isn't big enough to last more than 6 hours when it's below 10° out. I've also had to repair internal leaks every season now, and this will only be the 3rd season heating with it. Luckily I'm a machinist/fabricator by trade so welding equipment is only 30 ft away from the boiler, but I shouldn't have to be welding inside of it in the first place. Considering Empyre is out of business now, the 25 year warranty doesn't mean squat. I'm saving up for a heatmaster g200 to replace it in a year or two.


What kind of diesel is on yours? Can you describe the stink? Any smoke? If so, what color? I'm also a master cert diesel tech and I'm very familiar with oddball diesels.