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FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Bedford T, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. ssm1699

    ssm1699 ArboristSite Operative

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    So, I have read that the rope rotor's will break? What breaks on them? Last night I fired mine up and the not for the starter handle came undone and pulled the pull rope back in. I wound the rotor a little and re-knotted it in the handle. Now when I start the saw, a bind occurs and the rope won't recoil back in. I pull the entire assembly off the saw and I have no issues with it.
     
  2. X 66 Stang347 X

    X 66 Stang347 X ArboristSite Operative

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    The rotor normally cracks and come apart.
    When your knot came out the spring unwound to fast and caused the rotor to go past it’s neutral stop point then go backwards. That sometimes causes the spring to bend where it attaches to the rotor.
    To check it Slowly unwind the spring and carefully pull the rotor off and check the spring.
     
  3. ssm1699

    ssm1699 ArboristSite Operative

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    Sounds good. I will do that.
     
  4. ssm1699

    ssm1699 ArboristSite Operative

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    Well, I tried to pull it apart, but I sheared the contact points on my Torx impact bit trying to get the axle bolt out, to pull the rotor. I have other bits, but I was on limited time over my lunch hour. Hope Irwin gets back to me, since my bit isn't even 2 months old and definitely hasn't been abused. Did it with a short handle 1/4" ratchet.
     
  5. X 66 Stang347 X

    X 66 Stang347 X ArboristSite Operative

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    You don’t have to pull the center. Just remove the clip and pull the rotor up and off. Be carful the spring is under it and maybe attached It could jump out if you don’t make sure it’s detached from the rotor.
     
  6. ssm1699

    ssm1699 ArboristSite Operative

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    OK. All the other recoil starters that I have had to pull apart, the bolt/screw had to be removed. Learn something new every day.
     
  7. ssm1699

    ssm1699 ArboristSite Operative

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    Well, I got it apart and it doesn't look like the spring is bent. Maybe it was binding up because I had it wound to far/tight.[​IMG]

    Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
     
  8. X 66 Stang347 X

    X 66 Stang347 X ArboristSite Operative

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    That does look ok. You could have had it to tight.
    I usually go about 2 rounds more to tighten it up.
     
  9. William Prophett

    William Prophett ArboristSite Operative

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    Hey guys, update on my clutch. I said the other day that I had noticed that the clutch was getting weak on one of my 660 builds. I ordered the Oregon/Hyway clutch kit and replaced it today. There wasn't anything wrong with the kit clutch and drum. There was just a bunch of gunk inside the PTO side making it slip. I still threw the new Oregon kit in, but wanted to set the record straight. This one saw has about 50+ tanks of milling lumber through it. Still purring...
     
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  10. homervirden

    homervirden ArboristSite Lurker

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    So no worries about replacing the kit's clutch then. 80 -100 bucks for an oem so that's good news.
     
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  11. William Prophett

    William Prophett ArboristSite Operative

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    Oregon has a complete kit with Oregon drum and sprocket, bearing, both spacers and E clip and a Highway clutch for $50....
     
  12. William Prophett

    William Prophett ArboristSite Operative

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  13. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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  14. William Prophett

    William Prophett ArboristSite Operative

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    2002 is the new clutch. 2005 is the old one. 2002 is 6
    2002 is the new 6 coil clutch. 2005 is the old style 5 coil. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense that they would have a "smaller" number for the new style clutch, but that is my understanding.
     
  15. ssm1699

    ssm1699 ArboristSite Operative

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    Well, got the recoil assembly back together and no more issues. Saw fired up just fine and it was 35*F out when I did it. Ran like a champ. Now to figure out when to get it into some wood. It is so freaking wet here, from all the rain.
     
  16. ammoaddict

    ammoaddict ArboristSite Guru

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    I discovered a problem with my 660 kit yesterday. The connecting rod is a few thousanths shorter than it should be. When I built the saw the inside of the piston skirts we're hitting the crank counterweights. I dremeled enough off for it to clear. When I checked squish it was
    .065. I just got the new hyway popup piston and cylinder kit for it and when I installed it that piston is hitting the counterweights as well. So if two different Pistons are hitting and the squish is larger than normal. That tells me the connecting rod is a little shorter than OEM specs.

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  17. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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  18. ammoaddict

    ammoaddict ArboristSite Guru

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    No. I used only kit parts. I just wasn't ever happy with it, so now I was going to replace some parts to make it right.
    I had read others were having Pistons that hit the crank and everyone thought it was just the piston skirts too thick, including me. But now I know it's the connecting rod.

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  19. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    I meant like shaving the landing, using different bearings, anything? Sucks

    http://thechainsawkitguy.com

    https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
     
  20. ammoaddict

    ammoaddict ArboristSite Guru

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    No, all kit parts, no modifications at all, except for opening up the muffler baffles a bit.

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