Thank you. It's kinda fun isn't? It seemed daunting to me as well. I happen to have a friend who has a lot of patience and he would answer the 1000 question I would have. The videos seemed like a way to pay it forward.Thank you so much for making the videos. Don’t think I would have tried without it
Thank you. Do you see a coating on top of the metal? Your looks like mine and my wager was it was not there. I spoke with a company that coats motorcycle cylinders and they said they would look at for me. I got all shook up as he used to say. Nikasil is a coating. If you say you can't see a coating I am sending it to them. Yours is discolored further in and that looks to be metal.You wanted pictures of my cylinder before I put it on so here you go. The plating did not look bad at all. I am not sure if it was chrome or Nikasil. Nikasil usually has a yellow tent to it but the cylinders that I have been getting Nicomed do not have the yellow tent and this could be Nicom. Either way it does have the ports chamfered and everything looks good and smooth.
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I am the guy that keeps them focused. I felt strongly that mine was chrome. Well prepared. But they said nikasil and with me they need to be staight up. Thanks again for your effort in answering my question. Having the larger cylinder will give you more ump. I would like to build a 460. Don't have one.It does appear to be on top of the metal. Nikasil or Nicom seams to blend down into the aluminum and chrome seams to show it's edges more so than nikasil or nicom. I am pretty sure that my cylinder is chrome which is not that bad. I have rebuilt old McCullochs that have a lot of hours on them with chrome bores and they have performed great. Yes Nikasil is a lot harder and adheres to the aluminum better. I prefer Nikasil but have ran chrome bores for many years without problems.
With a chrome bore would you want to run atleast 40:1 for extra protection? Or maybe even 32 like the old MccullochsIt does appear to be on top of the metal. Nikasil or Nicom seams to blend down into the aluminum and chrome seams to show it's edges more so than nikasil or nicom. I am pretty sure that my cylinder is chrome which is not that bad. I have rebuilt old McCullochs that have a lot of hours on them with chrome bores and they have performed great. Yes Nikasil is a lot harder and adheres to the aluminum better. I prefer Nikasil but have ran chrome bores for many years without problems.
It’s not the end of the world if you have to replace top end in 3-4 years of hard use. I’d run it like I stole it. Maybe even have a top end on the shelf for the price you can buy one from them.With a chrome bore would you want to run atleast 40:1 for extra protection? Or maybe even 32 like the old Mccullochs
that is for the west coast cover and may not fit the regular cover, if that's not the case, If you get time tell them. The website has a message system. Give them item #. They usually improve with feedback.I tell you one thing I was disappointed with was I ordered a Chip Guard they have for sale. Do not purchase them. They do not fit. The holes that they mount to do not line up.
You see the holes that goes to pins in the case, they do not line up. The top pin lines up but the bottom pin is 1/2 in long.
Post #2 on the west coast cover. They wrap everything like a mummy. The handle is a tight fit, even the oem. I remarked it required 3 hands and a rubber mallet to get it on. Glad you are happy. I could see your cut from that description. Saws are funThanks. I am not familiar with the west coast cover, can you explain the difference in them please. I put the full wrap handlebar on the saw. It had been shipped with just wrapping around it stuffed into a shipping bag with a bunch of other items I had purchased. It got bent rather badly in transit so I had to make several adjustments to it before it would fit. I ran the saw today. Seams like the idle is a bit erratic. I tried to adjust it out of it but just had to come to a happy mediocre. That cylinder really woke that saw up and it is not broke in yet. I heat cycled it 3 times and then checked the cylinder bolts to ensure they were still good and tight. I took it out to my wood pile where I had an old piece of a tree that I could not do much with. It is where the oak tree forked into many directions. Really just a big stump all knotted up. Some really tough stuff. I sunk the bar in it and when I got the 28" bar fully into the stump I really bared down on it. The bar fully sunk in this 30 something inch knott, me bearing down hard on the saw and it did not choke, it just keep on cutting. Man it is a beast. I was hesitant to put a 32" bar on it before. I have no hesitation at all now. It will pull it with no problem at all.
Is it a Stihl decomp? If it's not get one. You saw what it did to my handle and I have a Stihl decomp. They got a lot of compression. The famertec valve is not up to snuff. They must have a spring in them. Every FarmerTec I had had to be reset each pull and that is hard on ya too.Does any one have trouble with the DSP valve closing about half way threw the stroke during start. Man mine will about break your fingers. When you are starting it, the DSP valve will close about half way threw the pull and it will dead stop the starter and many times kick back. Man it is very hard on the fingers. After putting on the big bore kit it is really bad.