FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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If these bearings are identical, it looks to me like someone installed one backward, with the closed side in rather than out. Those of you who have built a Huztl 066...did both your bearings have the open side in?

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The one on the pto side has to be open on the outside. The crank seal instals inside the bearing...
 
Here a west coast cover i got from huztl
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wrap is an add on with a wrench holder

this KIT requires me to have what original stihl parts ? the oil pump is hi flow why ? more taper on adjustment screw and its bore . Who sells? im trying to get to total costs of this not including my labour? this is a 660 so its 90 cc what else do i need thats not talked about?
 
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This kit will operate "as is" if you have crank tools to pull the crank shaft through the pre-installed crank case bearings and seals safetly without inverting a seal. That being said, it's just safer for most folks to remove the pto side pre-installed seal and install a new one after the cases are assembled. So, it makes sense to purchase an aftermarket or OEM seal kit. Most of the other parts in question are "should replace" but not "must replace"... These parts include wrist pin, cir clips, wrist pin bearing, piston rings, decompression valve, chain adjuster... Also, as I did, I purchased the "big bore 56mm cylinder and piston assembly" for $16 shipped with the kit and it makes this saw 99cc and you have the 54mm cylinder assembly as a backup. After reading several hundred pages of information and watching hours of video on this build, I replaced the kit piston rings with Caber rings, replaced the kit decompression button with OEM Stihl, replaced the kit chain adjuster with OEM Stihl, used an aftermarket seal kit from HL Supply, assembled the crankcase and cylinder with gaskets and 1184 gasket sealer, and after having my pull start assembly fail in sub zero weather, purchased an aftermarket recoil assembly from HL Supply and Huztl also sent me a new one... Hope this all helps. Walt at Hill Top Saw Shop has assembled these saws and run them with "just" the parts in the kit... Have a successful build and reach out if I can help...
 
Do you know if the original Stihl bearings were open on both sides? It would seem that being (partially) closed on the inside would compromise the lubrication of the bearing.

That bearing being partially closed in will actually retain lubricant in the bearing and better lubricate the bearing. Have seen this on other 2-stroke engines.

Brian
 
Got my MS 660 kit in the mail this past week. This is my first chainsaw build. I'm posting this to share my experience so far. I compared the contents of my kit with list posted by the1chainsawguy. I also cross-referenced with a parts diagram of the saw. Many of the bags were not labeled which made identifying them more difficult, especially the screws.

Here are the broken/missing parts:
1pc - Brake band (no retaining pin) - OEM Part # 1122 160 5400
1pc - Throttle Rod Grommet (Broken)
1pc - Crankcase gasket (Broken) - OEM Part # 1122 029 0507
1pc - Reflector Foil (Missing) - OEM Part # 1128 084 8302
1pc - Rubber Cap (Missing) - OEM Part # 1121 084 7100
10pcs - M5x20 Spline T27 Torx Screws (quantity 10 screws missing) - OEM Part # 9022 371 1020
5pcs - Hexagon Lock nut M5 - OEM Part # 9214 320 0700
2pcs - Hexagon nut M5 - OEM Part # 9210 260 0700

There was also not a cylinder plug in the kit (part #1122 025 2200). I'm assuming this is an optional part you have to buy if you want to pressure test the saw or run the saw without the decomp valve. I mention it here because it was included on the1chainsawguy's list. Anyone else get one in their kit?

Initially, Jane at Huztl did not want to send me the replacement parts. For some they said "they are not come with these parts". For others they said "pls don't worry, the Saw can work normally without them". And for the rest, they said "The rest of parts, do you have original? If you have, hope you can assemble the MS660 Saw, to confirm other parts can work normally." Later she suggested that I try to use the broken gasket to see if it would work. They were totally brushing me off!

I'm still in the process of getting them to replace the parts. They've agreed to send most of them after I mentioned contacting PayPal, but did not agree to send the brake band or heat shield. They may not have them. I’ve asked for a partial refund if they can't supply a complete set of parts. This will help me buy them from another supplier. I will open a case with PayPal if I don't receive the parts or get a resolution soon.

They did update the picture of the brake band on their website to show that it does not have a retaining pin. This is a little progress. They should include a complete parts list for the kit on their site with links to their individual parts pages. I think this would help improve communication and people would be able to see exactly what they should receive in the kit.

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I also forgot to mention that this muffler baffle was not included in my kit, but was on the part list provided by the1chainsawguy:
1pc Baffle 1122 121 6900

Did anyone else receive one in their MS 660 kit? And do I need it? On the parts diagram it looks like there are several different filter options.

Thanks!
Joe
 

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I also forgot to mention that this muffler baffle was not included in my kit, but was on the part list provided by the1chainsawguy:
1pc Baffle 1122 121 6900

Did anyone else receive one in their MS 660 kit? And do I need it? On the parts diagram it looks like there are several different filter options.

Thanks!
Joe
That air filter baffle is there so any backpressure through the carb doesn't soak the filter element. My kit came with a black filler element that fits inside the filter and does the same thing... Its like a black foam oval looking thing that fits inside the filter on the air horn side...
 
Update on my 660 clone build...
The oiler either doesn't work or comes out of adjustment. I can spin it up and get oil to come out but at some point during my cuts it just stops working. Chain was dry as a bone. So I ordered a used Stihl oil pump and oiler as well as oil pressure relief valve.
And I had to replace the chain brake link and small spring (spring was stretched already and the link was sloppy locking the drum).
I deleted the decomp valve as I was tired of the cap popping off. I cut the stem with a hacksaw and peened it over to hold the valve in place.
Besides this the engine runs great. I deleted the steel gasket because the squish was around .037". Without the gasket it is .025"
 
On your oil pump I would look at the plastic worm gear also. The wire on mine would slip around then wouldn't pump.
I would get a decomp plug coming. You don't want the possibility of the valve leaking.
Squish on all 3 of mine had.023-.025 with the huztl cylinder and no gasket.
 
On your oil pump I would look at the plastic worm gear also. The wire on mine would slip around then wouldn't pump.
I would get a decomp plug coming. You don't want the possibility of the valve leaking.
Squish on all 3 of mine had.023-.025 with the huztl cylinder and no gasket.

Non issue now. Received my Stihl pump, worm gear and pressure valve. Installed and oiling as it should. The saw started on 4 pulls so I am still impressed with the performance.
 
My P51 is getting long in the tooth, I bit and got one in from HL. Look's nice. I will most likely throw it together and make it run no problem. I traded having no luck with women to becoming X-Men Mechgizmo.
 

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