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FarmerTec MS200t Chainsaw Build Thread

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Bedford T, Oct 6, 2018.

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  1. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    Outta those sizes. That is a nice package. The hardware told me today they did not make 4x18. Bless their heart.
    chainsaw kits and packing lists
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  2. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    The saw looks nice. Look forward to finishing mine. Any trouble with the carb? Not very many running yet. I felt like long term that would be the weak spot. I think I read idle was an issue for one user. And with the kit manifold no telling how that effected his idle. Another question, do you have the exhaust flange? I am ordering one. I pressure vacuum tested with the boot clamped closed and my thumb over the exhaust port using the impulse to connect my pump. That won't work assembled. So I need one on hand.

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  3. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    On the carb studs, I managed just enuf threads for a standard nut w/blue Loctite.
    [​IMG]
    When my machinist friend gets back from vacation, we’ll see if we can make room for the Nylock nuts.
     
  4. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    Ran the saw extensively at the Fort Scott Ks event.

    I had the carb set at 1 1/4 H & L. Opened the high side maybe another 1/8 turn.

    Start /run & restart were excellent.

    I think the fuel filter is too large causing the saw to suck air and get quirky on a low tank.
     
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  5. Axotopia

    Axotopia ArboristSite Member

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    Just curious how the kit is coming along with everybody and if anyone's been able to get their saw to work with all Farmertec parts
    My Pre-Huztl Kit has now over 30+ tanks with all stock in the drivetrain except the carb.
    1. Running with replacement Farmertec intake boot/manifold to see if it melts again So far so good for the past 3 tanks.
    2. OEM carb seems to be acting weird with the L-screw tightening up by itslelf. Had it set to 1.5 turns out, but when I restarted a few days later, it is at 3/4 turn out. Either there is a ghost in my shed or the squirrels has figured bow to use the screwdrivers to mess with my head.
    3. Replacing the oiler hose with OEM, looks like it is continuing to kink and not letting bar oil thru as BedfordT had noted.
    Other than that, seals, bearings etc are all Farmertec and holding up so far.
     
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  6. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    I got started again today. I work and film so it takes me longer. That sucks on the hose. The oem hose did not kink so something else is up. My oiler is oem so we will see. We will get it sorted. Post office delayed me 6 days. The p4x14 screws that hold one of the top av's are missing. I will see if I can get a few tomorrow. I found a stray in my stash. Might find another on a fs120 tomorrow. I want to get it started asap.

    Is your oil tank completely full? If not try it full. Are you sure you have the oiler rubber barrel connector is fitted right? I tested the hose before closing it. The oem held it's shape. Is the worm insert slipping and not turning the oiler? I was suppose to have a oem work, the guy screwed me.

    On the carb, temp can change your tune. Example, From very hot when it got tuned and then you run it in cold and it will trick you. I just don't have faith in the clone carbs. I want to wait until I get the handful of things sorted before spending 85$. Glad the manifold was improved. That was half the cost of the carb for me .

    I am rendering my video now. Tomorrow afternoon I will get back to it and by Friday morning I should have it running and I can see what problems I have. We can start solving them

    I am glad I got some different screws I was able to assemble tight and not snap any 4's

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  7. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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  8. Axotopia

    Axotopia ArboristSite Member

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    Sorry for confusion. Waiting on OEM oil hose to arrive. The Farmertec hoses were the one that kinked; this is the 2nd hose, so looks like Farmertec is a dud on the oil hoses.

    The OEM carb L-screw must have moved due to vibration or resonance, but working itself tighter is weird. This is the 3rd time it has happened within the week, must be a ghost in the machine. May put some Loctite blue on the L-screw since I already know the setting.

    Good idea replacing the screws, the Farmertec screws are really soft; definitely recommend replacing the ones on the cylinder and coils. I snapped the head on the ones for the coil, took over an hour to get it out.

    BTW, saw the video ... what's the difference between the new and old intake boots?
     
  9. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    BT: You are bending it the wrong direction.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    I got no idea. Size? As I said they did not send a note.
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  11. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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  12. tomdcoker

    tomdcoker Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I am in the process of tearing one of the down cleaning and repairing anything that needs repairing so I will save this information. I have it back together and the only problem That I had was with the choke and throttle linkage. I could not remember how it was and could not figure it out, but it just happened that I had another one in the lineup to be repaired. I removed the handle cover and used it for a pattern. Tom
     
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  13. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    I feel for you Tom on the handle linkage.

    All I had was the IPL.

    I had to follow my nose on the ‘U’ shape retainer.
    [​IMG]

    Took several tries on the kill switch bits.
     
  14. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    I been busy all day on this. Glad it can help. It's meant to be a reference.

    The odd thing is I got the handle on, got the clutch side finished. Feeling good. I got some supper coming back to the carb and OMG. TROUBLE.

    The carb or the choke linkage to the carb is off. Apply the choke and the linkage pops off. Could be both the carb choke plate being slightly bent and or the rod from the handle. I got it all on film. So I will sleep on that and come around to it tomorrow

    I have purposely not asked or looked at anything when I have done this so as to not have anyone's shortcuts work their way into it, just the Stihl manual. The handle was a puzzle and it went on today without a hitch. In assembly I had the staple in when I was reviewing the task ahead and it ended up getting in my way, it's funny how something can carry forward. Simple things.

    I pulled the face off the handle and watched as the choke would pop out. I wish I had a oem throttle and a carb to compare too.

    I did get the nuts on the carb cover by sanding down the holes. I think the plastic was to thick.

    Thanks more later
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  15. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    To those building, and if you want it to last, every piece of rubber should be replaced. As I am winding down the assembly the fuel hose and vent hose looked ok. But after installing the handle the vent hose is too long, I cut it down and the fuel hose closes off like the oil hose did. Both would fold and close easily not something you want with that type floating handle.

    The crap you have heard about the handle is just that. I give it a B+. Over all the A quality is there. I think the av's are included in the above replace statement. I had to roll the saw to get the bottom av attached to handle which is fine but that puts extra pressure on the bottom AV. And the top AVs hold the control handle down along with that $40 boot. All the more reason to go OEM. Taking your time with the AV anchoring system is well worth your effort, matching the correct screws which are missing in the correct position.

    They must have had a shortage of "P" screws. Some we're making missing some we're wrong size and I switched out the m4's also so I could tighten them.

    That covers the stuff you should plan on replacing that's not much. The carb is on that list just not there yet. I am looking at how the rear linkage hooks in.

    As far as kits this is the better. And the tips I leave in the videos will allow you to have a good saw.

    In the video where I am troubleshooting the choke, the handle is open and you can see how to work on them without being scared of it falling apart. Three screws and your inside

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  16. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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  17. Axotopia

    Axotopia ArboristSite Member

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    Just wanted to share the kinking issues with the hoses. Hoses are bent to illustrate the difference in quality.

    Oil Hose
    Left: Farmertec
    Right: OEM
    upload_2018-10-28_2-48-26.png

    Fuel+Vent Hose
    Left: Farmertec bought as standalone item (SG marking)
    Right: Farmertec came as part of fuel tank assembly
    upload_2018-10-28_2-49-53.png
     
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  18. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    [​IMG]
    Client powerhead rebuild. Farmertec top end. Cylinder I rate as wonderful, piston as great but rings as ‘serviceable’.
    Piston skirt clearance is .0015” but crown clearance is .035” sans base gasket.
    Ring end gap .008” & .010”.
     
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  19. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    One could order three or so sets of rings to cull thru for best finish and end gap when one pulls the trigger on a 200t ‘kit’.

    Cheap insurance.

    And, I’ve found Caber rings disappointing on occasion.
     
  20. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    Ordered another 200t ‘kit’ yesterday and at the same time a set of rings from @Definative Dave.
     
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