Felling a tree against the lean

[MasterlockJr]

I have a small ash, maybe ~25 feet, that is up on a hill in the back of my house, with a slight lean towards the house. Its really not a big tree at all.

I am an intermediate when it comes to this stuff. have a good sized chainsaw and have taken down other tress on my property. I've done some internet searches, and have found some decent resoursces for felling a treee against the lean - the wedge method seems to be popular.

Any help? I'd be up for some advice, or pointing me to some good online resources with video / pictures. Thanks-

 

[smokechase II]

wedging small trees

Small 25 feet (tall?)

To wedge you need some reasonable diameter to work with,

or be able to put in a back-cut first, then wedge snug, then face cut, then wedge over.

This gets complicated with driving a wedge into the hinge, medics and later FEMA replacement housing.

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25 feet tall sounds like a rope thrown up about 15-20 feet and consistent gentle rope pull applied by a non-ADHD helper might be a solution.

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I liked that you bragged, "have a good sized chainsaw".

I'd like to ask permission to change my handle to just that...???

Thanks for your consideration.

 

[MasterlockJr]

Yes, 25 feet tall. its a small ash.

rope sounds far easier. thanks.

handle-away on the chainsaw bit...I'll be sure to monitor the site to make sure you use it. didnt mean to 'brag', what I meant was that I have a chainsaw big enough to take down this tree.

 

[smokechase II]

Some rope issues

Rope has to be strong enough plus a safety factor.

Where tree and rope meet the tree has to be strong enough plus a safety factor.

The pulling mechanism has to be strong enough plus ......

The person controlling the pulling has to have a nature of co-operation and patience. If they don't they could apply undesireable force and sponsor a barber chair event.

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A nice advantage you have is time. Thinking it out is great.

I had a crappy old near dead 65' multi-topped elm in the backyard. The neighbors had a crappy old dead chevy in their backyard.

I thought, measured and calculated, thought some more.
Cut carefully and just slightly touched my shed with a top limb and not their vehicle with any side limbage (new word for me).

Time is a gift.

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There are other thoughts.
If the faller were to cut off the holding wood accidently and the rope 'person' had been in a discussion prior to this and prepared for it they could be able to hold firm and this would limit the range of fall to a 180 degree half-circle toward the rope puller. This may be worth mentioning and might also help determine your best exact target.

All the best.

 

[MasterlockJr]

given the size of the tree...

I would have a buddy of mine pulling on a rope, maybe a 1/2" rope, and me cutting. couple of regular guys in good shape thinking straight. sound ok to you?

so I assume I would still make the face cut (notch) first, then as I start to make the back cut (which is the way the tree is leaning) I have the puller start applying the pulling, gauging the force? if i read correctly you dont want to pull to hard as to have the middle of the tree start splitting?

appreciate the advice- thanks-

 

[Tree Pig]

Rope (like someone already said 1/2 triple braid would work fine) through the rope in too top 1/3 of the tree or higher, strongest crotch above 2/3 of the way up. Use at least 100 feet of rope for good leverage. Make a nice face cut , I would go 90° from the lean if its safe 180° is possible but more chances for problems if you newer at it. Make your back cut while someone is pulling tension. As a safety factor a $5 plastic felling wedge isnt a bad idea also. 1" of lift (using wedge) on a 25' tree guessing maybe 12-14" DBH, will straighten the tree around 25" so you would be correcting 2 feet of lean.

Using either the rope or the wedge you would be able to drop that safe, combine the two (with proper cuts) and you could do it with one eye closed.

 

[MasterlockJr]

I know this might sound stupid, but when I make the back cut, do I just make one cut and insert the wedge in? once the wedge is in, how do I continue cutting the back cut with it in the way?

 

[sawinredneck]

On a tree that small, you will either sacrafice the wedge or not finish the cut.
The rope is your best bet, the wedge in your case is a safety factor to keep the tree from seting back on your saw or going over the wrong way.
To properly wedge that tree over you will have to have a GREAT understanding of how much hinge wood to leave. The part of the stump that looks stringy after the tree falls. A trick I am no where near mastering myself!
On a larger tree it's easier, make a cut to where you think it's ready, drive the wedge. If it doesn't fall, cut a little more and try again. Thats learning the hinge.
A tree that size, in that location, you really need to have it all down to a science. Or prepare to cut the wedge up.
I think the rope is your best bet and keep in mind, the higher that rope is, the more leverage you have on it, within the breaking point of he tree.

 

[Metals406]

Here is a thread and video of the '1/4 cut technique' for felling small DBH trees... It works very well.

Video: http://web.aanet.com.au/ekka/Video/Monday11072005.wmv

Thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23294&highlight=1/4+cut+technique

 

[MasterlockJr]

sweet, thanks, will check them out before cutting this weekend.

 

[randyg]

If you can tie the rope to another tree in about the same direction you want to fell, better than people. Wind in addition to miscalculated force of lean can drag people, and even vehicles at times.

That vid on the quarter cut looks good. I saw one by the same guy, Ekka, on you tube I think showing the 'scarf and notch' which I like better than that quarter cut on smaller trees.

Face cut, bore through center of face cut straight through and out the back side of tree. Insert wedge and tap tight. Then make two back cuts, one on each side of wedge and slightly above (each of these similar to the first back cut on that quarter cut, the one the wedge goes in) being careful not to cut the wedge, making sure to leave adequate hinge wood. Hope that wasn't to confusing?

 

[Ekka]

Here is a thread and video of the '1/4 cut technique' for felling small DBH trees... It works very well.

Video: http://web.aanet.com.au/ekka/Video/Monday11072005.wmv

Thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23294&highlight=1/4+cut+technique

I'm surprised that video still works! You better download and save it as that host is now cancelled.

Also there's this technique for getting a wedge in

Tongue and Groove Tree Felling Technique.


Videos of mine hosted in places other than Youtube may no longer work as I have moved hosts, websites etc so please report them as you bump into them so I can do something about it (if I can).

I also just loaded up this 1/4 cut demo.

 

[farmboy53]

I use the wedge to keep the bar from getting pinched. Remember if the wind blows the wedge can fall out, as the tree starts forward out it comes only to have the wind bring the tree back with no wedge. If the tree has a back lean and the wedge falls out as described the saw gets pinched, the hinge breaks and major damage may occur. The wedge is no guarantee. If the tree has a back lean and you attempt to use a wedge to lift, while pounding you can break the hinge.

 

[MasterBlaster]

This is a 5 year old thread bump?

Forget the wedge and set a rope... period.

 

[GlenYoshida]

The work is done and with hindsight there are so many things I would have done differently. It's mind boggling to me how much there is to learn about arborist work. Seems there are as many variables in tree work as there are ways for my wife to be right when we argue. I'm fascinated by the level of detail that's revealed by experienced arborists and the wisdom that comes along with that mindset.

I uploaded this because I wanted to get your feedback and opinions on what I could have done differently making things safer. I'm no pro and don't pretend to be but I am proud to live in a country where we still have some choices. Even if that means choosing to do something dangerous.

 

[Woos31]

The work is done and with hindsight there are so many things I would have done differently. It's mind boggling to me how much there is to learn about arborist work. Seems there are as many variables in tree work as there are ways for my wife to be right when we argue. I'm fascinated by the level of detail that's revealed by experienced arborists and the wisdom that comes along with that mindset.

I uploaded this because I wanted to get your feedback and opinions on what I could have done differently making things safer. I'm no pro and don't pretend to be but I am proud to live in a country where we still have some choices. Even if that means choosing to do something dangerous.

Nobody hurt and nothing destroyed..........that's a win. But..............don't be cruising around the business end of er with it almost cut off like that...............second, when you get one that far in the backcut you can set wedges even in small trees parallel to the hinge that way you still get the use of your wedge without bottoming out against the hinge. Also on the compression side of the hinge parallel with the hinge and the wedge will help lift and push some degree from the lean. Third, don't be afraid to tickle some off the face side of the hinge especially with a back cut first scenario. Back cut and set a wedge, then make face cut, then tickle the face ever so slightly as with small trees it's not likely to get your bar in the back cut again. In your video posted you could've cut a bit in the face with little hinge left

 

[HuskStihl]

I would have definitely backed up that rope with a wedge. You were under it a bit much for my comfort level. They seem to move faster after being topped

 

[GlenYoshida]

Thanks for the feedback.

Woos31, When you mentioned "...don't be cruising around the business end of er with it almost cut off like that..." We're you referring to walking in the fall path with it cut most of the way through?

I think I understand the use of wedges as you guys described.

It's not really easy to see in the video but I had a couple of wedges in there. Both were parallel to the hinge and as far to the back as I could get them while still leaving room for the bar to release the back strap. One of the wedges was in the way of the bar so that's why I tossed it aside after tapping the opposite wedge in more.

I did a plunge cut and left some backstrap because there wasn't enough room to do a normal back cut with the fence so close. Initially I tried to get a pole saw in there to release the back strap but I couldn't get the pole saw blade in such a tight spot. Poor planning on my part.

With some hindsight I wonder if it would have been better to just keep chunking of from the top? I thought with my limited experience that staying up in the tree and taking off chunks would have been more dangerous. Maybe not.

HiskStihl, thanks for the 2nd opinion on the wedges. I cringe a little every time I watch be get away from the falling trunk. I thought I was farther away.

What do you think a well equipped and well trained arborist would have done?

Take down a section of the fence to get a bucket truck back there, chunk it down, something else?

 

[BC WetCoast]

I wouldn't have used a wedge on a peg that short. After setting the rope, I would have put in a deep notch (>1/2 the tree), backcut and pull. Moving the hinge back (deep back cut) moves the pivot closer to the centre of gravity making the pull easier.