Felling saw= Worn piston?

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I picked up a used 372 Xp that was full of saw dust inside the crankcase. Doesn’t anyone clean there air filters anymore.? I clean and wash my air filters every evening with ether. I get the oil off the mesh so the next days wood chips aren’t attracted to the air cleaner.

My saws paid my bills and put food on my table.
Not me.
I run it till it dies. If I dont have the parts to fix nearby I buy a new one.
I have too many machines to service without getting into little things on cheap equip daily. I have let them in my truck bed in the rain for days and God only knows.
I got a call on a $3300 cut and leave in the snow and had to take my truck to the car was and spend $20 melting the snow off all my stuff.

Sometimes it is all in the shop oranized and cleaned and serviced. Other times its laying in a giant snowball with 50 redbull cans and oil jugs while my butt is running inside shivering my butt off.
 
I have a 395xp I have ran prob ten years and cut with every day. I put a big bore kit on it which was great until I used opti 2 mix with it. It glazed and flaked on a massive maple I was top downing.
So I flew back to tge garage and slapoed the old jug and piston back on. Ran like new again.

This saw has been through hell in all positions. It has cut millions of board feet of timber.

I know guys that just get rid of the old and in with the new just to avoid issue though, every year or two.
My old saw is getting loose everywhere. About time for me to get a new one.

I strongly recommend against aftermarket chinese bored jugs and pistons online btw.
All that thing did was rattle screws loose and fry in about a year and a half. No real added performance over the stock.
Wow can you post a pic of it? Lol I wanna see a beat to hell 395 that still runs good :)
 
At 50 to 1 a saw will run cooler , well that is what the Guys at Stihl tell me lol

The problem is the heat transfer. If the piston clearance is more then the tolarences specified the heat can’t transfer to the cooling fins on the cylinder, no amount of two stroke oil will fix that. The piston and cylinder must be mic’d. We just can’t throw any piston into any cylinder without it being mic’d. With husky’s there are A, B, C cylinders and pistons.
 
Not me.
I run it till it dies. If I dont have the parts to fix nearby I buy a new one.
I have too many machines to service without getting into little things on cheap equip daily. I have let them in my truck bed in the rain for days and God only knows.
I got a call on a $3300 cut and leave in the snow and had to take my truck to the car was and spend $20 melting the snow off all my stuff.

Sometimes it is all in the shop oranized and cleaned and serviced. Other times its laying in a giant snowball with 50 redbull cans and oil jugs while my butt is running inside shivering my butt off.

My husky saws are spoiled rotten, there kept in a woodstove heated, insulated floor, walls, doors, and ceiling garage. On a winter snowstorm night I can leave the 9’x9’ door open with the stove going full bore yet the garage stays toasty warm when the plow is out plowing. When it’s cold outside the saws go from the warm garage to the warm cab in the truck. My bar oil is warm too. I do thin it in the colder temps.
 
My brother in law cuts timber and it seems he is buying a new falling saw every year,sometimes not even that long.He keeps 2 saws on his landing and uses Husqvarna 372s to fall with.This may be a rookie question,but would a saw that spends most of its life cutting on its side wear out the right side of the piston or cylinder instead of wearing evenly?Seems like he has had the 2 same landing saws forever.Thanks for any replies

Should not be an issue for the piston and cylinder. In terms of running a saw one it’s side continuously the larger concern should be the crank bearings.

Milling saws, especially those mounted to large mills spend the majority of their running time on their side, in terms of the ones I have rebuilt or at least seen the inside of the piston and cylinder are often dusted from poor air filtration but in the same way as non milling saws. The bearings however can be quite different between sides with the clutch side often gummed up with saw dust fines in mix and the flywheel side being much cleaner but also much drier overall. The clutch side seals are often packed on the inside of the seal next to the bearing. This effect is not seen to the same degree on saws used normally or even if the milling saw is allowed to idle upright between cuts. Crankcase washing while running is a quick process, and usually quite effective as long as the saw is in good shape.

Look at the air filter on the saw, pull it off and look for fine dust in the intake. That is more a concern than running on its side. If it starts, idles, transfers from idle to Wot and back smoothly in all positions than it should not be worn out.
 
My husky saws are spoiled rotten, there kept in a woodstove heated, insulated floor, walls, doors, and ceiling garage. On a winter snowstorm night I can leave the 9’x9’ door open with the stove going full bore yet the garage stays toasty warm when the plow is out plowing. When it’s cold outside the saws go from the warm garage to the warm cab in the truck. My bar oil is warm too. I do thin it in the colder temps.
I want a shop bad. I want to be able to pull my truck into a building and lock it up with my stuff organized and ready to rock.
Hopefully we will be buying a house soon and at least have more parking.
I have heck shuffling vehicles around constantly.
It would make my life so much easier.
Getting too dang bulky stiff and old to be changing transmissions and such outside.

All things in time. Just glad to have the opportunity to build and grow slowly without a bank owning my stuff.
 
Pretty much from notch to back cut the saw always is laying to its right.On the notch cut sometimes the saw will lay to its left if the tree is big enough to need to switch sides for the 45 degree notch cut.Im no tree felling expert by any means,Im just a farmer .But any tree I cut is done that way.And we cut as low as possible the first time,it sure is easier to get that stump low with the weight of the tree pulling it versus cutting just a stump.
just send me your BIL's address so I can pick some of these up... sounds t me like a P&C with some bearings will fix all of their troubles ;) regardless of the reason.
 

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